Greetings. Suppose that in the course of bleeding the engine (2QM15) after replacing the fuel tank on a '79 H-33, one stripped the theads in the fuel filter housing (see attached photo) so the bolt will NOT screw all the way down. Before going to the boatyard, I thought I would ask the very knowledgeable and helpful folks on this list if they had any advice on what I need to do to get this fixed.
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Moe Horenfeldt
Stripped thread
The easiest method is to use a thread cutter ot the next larger size thread, and replace the bolt with the appropriate one with a good washer., and this time, do not overtighten the bolt!
The easiest method is to use a thread cutter ot the next larger size thread, and replace the bolt with the appropriate one with a good washer., and this time, do not overtighten the bolt!
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Pat McCartin
Stripped threads
Use a tap of the same sike to clean the threads. THEN seal the bolt with locktite and never bleed with that one again. Instead use the larger bolt or the outbound fuel line.
Use a tap of the same sike to clean the threads. THEN seal the bolt with locktite and never bleed with that one again. Instead use the larger bolt or the outbound fuel line.
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Rob Stufflebeam
Thanks.
I appreciate your quick advice. I don't know what a tap or a thread cutter is, but I'm now armed with some options as I head to the supply store.
I appreciate your quick advice. I don't know what a tap or a thread cutter is, but I'm now armed with some options as I head to the supply store.
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Joe
drop some bucks
We did about the same thing to our fuel pump on our 1986 Hunter 31's Yanmar 2GM20F. We decided to be safer than sorrier, so we got a new fuel pump for less than $100. Your whole fuel filter assembly costs about $70. Why not drop some dough and do it right? Replace those nasty washers in the banjo fittings at the same time. Torreson is quite friendly and helpful, ensuring you get the right parts. The obvious benefit would be an easy modular replacement and you (or next owner) not have to worry about matching a bastard size fitting. Just an idea, but for safety's sake, why jeopardize the boat with a fuel leak. I could also say that some mean old boat insurance man might be reading this exchange and take note of what you are doing, then void your policy at a most regrettable time. Take care, Joe
We did about the same thing to our fuel pump on our 1986 Hunter 31's Yanmar 2GM20F. We decided to be safer than sorrier, so we got a new fuel pump for less than $100. Your whole fuel filter assembly costs about $70. Why not drop some dough and do it right? Replace those nasty washers in the banjo fittings at the same time. Torreson is quite friendly and helpful, ensuring you get the right parts. The obvious benefit would be an easy modular replacement and you (or next owner) not have to worry about matching a bastard size fitting. Just an idea, but for safety's sake, why jeopardize the boat with a fuel leak. I could also say that some mean old boat insurance man might be reading this exchange and take note of what you are doing, then void your policy at a most regrettable time. Take care, Joe
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Joe
This worked for me
I taped it with a 1/8-pipe tap; put in brass male to female adaptor and a brass plug in the female adaptor. Now when I bleed the fuel system I don’t touch the aluminum filter housing I just take out the plug, screw in a 90 degree, 1/8 pipe to 1/8 hose barb put a length of clear tubing on and crank away.
I taped it with a 1/8-pipe tap; put in brass male to female adaptor and a brass plug in the female adaptor. Now when I bleed the fuel system I don’t touch the aluminum filter housing I just take out the plug, screw in a 90 degree, 1/8 pipe to 1/8 hose barb put a length of clear tubing on and crank away.
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Rob Stufflebeam
I've decided to drop the bucks
If this were not one of the most important bolts on the boat, I would opt to rethread it. After talking with folks at 2 boatyards and 2 suppliers, I've opted to replace the housing ($42.00 + shipping). Since I have time to ponder the bleeding procedure on the 2QM15, here is another question: I installed a bulb pump between the tank and the Racor primary. Pumping fills the primary and I get fuel at the bleed bolt. Assuming the same thing happens after I install the new fuel filter assembly, should I open the banjo valves before I crank? Thanks in advance. Rob
If this were not one of the most important bolts on the boat, I would opt to rethread it. After talking with folks at 2 boatyards and 2 suppliers, I've opted to replace the housing ($42.00 + shipping). Since I have time to ponder the bleeding procedure on the 2QM15, here is another question: I installed a bulb pump between the tank and the Racor primary. Pumping fills the primary and I get fuel at the bleed bolt. Assuming the same thing happens after I install the new fuel filter assembly, should I open the banjo valves before I crank? Thanks in advance. Rob
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Paul Akers
DO NOT open the banjo fittings
Once banjo fittings are tightened, they will leak once they are loosened. Banjo washers are one-time-use washers that must be replaced each time they are loosened. Just don't overtighten the new bleed screw. There's a washer/gasket on it that doesn't require very much nut pressure to hold it. That also goes to say that you should purchase a pack (10) of banjo washers to put on the new fuel filter assembly. Keep any extras as spares.
Once banjo fittings are tightened, they will leak once they are loosened. Banjo washers are one-time-use washers that must be replaced each time they are loosened. Just don't overtighten the new bleed screw. There's a washer/gasket on it that doesn't require very much nut pressure to hold it. That also goes to say that you should purchase a pack (10) of banjo washers to put on the new fuel filter assembly. Keep any extras as spares.
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Pat McCartin
Primer bulb...
Which Racor do you have? The 500 series have a check valve that shouldn't be pressurized. I dis agree with Paul on the Banjo fittings. My experience has been that you can retighten them a couple of times before replacing. After replacing the filter housing bleed the system at the injector pump, skip all the other connections. If you open the last bleeder in the system and pressurize the air/fuel will go to the opening.
Which Racor do you have? The 500 series have a check valve that shouldn't be pressurized. I dis agree with Paul on the Banjo fittings. My experience has been that you can retighten them a couple of times before replacing. After replacing the filter housing bleed the system at the injector pump, skip all the other connections. If you open the last bleeder in the system and pressurize the air/fuel will go to the opening.
Wow! Lots of info?
Some good, some not so good. First, no insurance guy could say a thing about your boat based on information gleaned from posts here. Second, diesel fuel is difficult to light off. Best done under either compression or atomization, which thankfuly happens INSIDE the combustion chamber. Dispite the Hollywood excitement, diesel is even harder to light off sitting on water, as it usualy is in a boat. There are lots ov boats out there with a load of diesel floating in the bilge, for better or worse and they rarely light up. Third. The fittings on these engines are assuredly not "bastard". They are world standard. Alass, it is the US who continues to produce bastard fittings by insisting on continuing to use the long outdated fractional inch system. Even the ENGLISH gave that up years ago! The thread that was buggered was probably at the very top of the hole. It most likely could have been cleaned up from below in a very simple procedure we could have talked you through. At $42 the fitting isn't all that costly, although it could put you about half way to a new halyard. The brass banjo washers, in my experience can be re-used several times if you're just cracking them slightly. They can be refreshed over and over (if you're really cheap like me) by annealing, which is heating to cherry red with a torch and allowing to cool without quenching. To seal the bleeder better than the brass washer on the filter housing Yanmar has plastic washers. Just buy the part for the later models. I believe the part is a "common part" with the second portion of the number indicating the size. Don't be in the least bit surprised if your Yanmar parts guy does not know this. Just get the plastic washer with 06000 or 08000 in the number corresponding with the size used on the QM. I can't remember the size offhand. Too much other "valuabe" information crammed into my head, you know.
Some good, some not so good. First, no insurance guy could say a thing about your boat based on information gleaned from posts here. Second, diesel fuel is difficult to light off. Best done under either compression or atomization, which thankfuly happens INSIDE the combustion chamber. Dispite the Hollywood excitement, diesel is even harder to light off sitting on water, as it usualy is in a boat. There are lots ov boats out there with a load of diesel floating in the bilge, for better or worse and they rarely light up. Third. The fittings on these engines are assuredly not "bastard". They are world standard. Alass, it is the US who continues to produce bastard fittings by insisting on continuing to use the long outdated fractional inch system. Even the ENGLISH gave that up years ago! The thread that was buggered was probably at the very top of the hole. It most likely could have been cleaned up from below in a very simple procedure we could have talked you through. At $42 the fitting isn't all that costly, although it could put you about half way to a new halyard. The brass banjo washers, in my experience can be re-used several times if you're just cracking them slightly. They can be refreshed over and over (if you're really cheap like me) by annealing, which is heating to cherry red with a torch and allowing to cool without quenching. To seal the bleeder better than the brass washer on the filter housing Yanmar has plastic washers. Just buy the part for the later models. I believe the part is a "common part" with the second portion of the number indicating the size. Don't be in the least bit surprised if your Yanmar parts guy does not know this. Just get the plastic washer with 06000 or 08000 in the number corresponding with the size used on the QM. I can't remember the size offhand. Too much other "valuabe" information crammed into my head, you know.
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Rob Stufflebeam
Using a helicoil worked
Thanks again for all the advice. My original solution was to simply order a new assembly. Although it was supposed to arrive in two days, it actually was not going to arrive for two weeks. Since I did not want to wait two weeks, the parts supplier suggested I buy a helicoil kit (8 mm X 1.25 mm). I had no idea what that was. This was an elegant and far less expensive solution. I won't go into how hard it was for me to find it, but the kit cost $23.00. It includes several coils, a tap for rethreading the hole, and a tap tool. It did not include the drill bit needed to drill out the old threads (I left that info on my boat, so I can supply it later). Basically, you drill the old hole, use the tap to make the new threads, then use the tool to screw in the coil, which now becomes the new (much stronger) threads. The original bolt worked perfectly. After purchasing some new (plastic) washers, I reinstalled the assembly yesterday. It works perfectly.
Thanks again for all the advice. My original solution was to simply order a new assembly. Although it was supposed to arrive in two days, it actually was not going to arrive for two weeks. Since I did not want to wait two weeks, the parts supplier suggested I buy a helicoil kit (8 mm X 1.25 mm). I had no idea what that was. This was an elegant and far less expensive solution. I won't go into how hard it was for me to find it, but the kit cost $23.00. It includes several coils, a tap for rethreading the hole, and a tap tool. It did not include the drill bit needed to drill out the old threads (I left that info on my boat, so I can supply it later). Basically, you drill the old hole, use the tap to make the new threads, then use the tool to screw in the coil, which now becomes the new (much stronger) threads. The original bolt worked perfectly. After purchasing some new (plastic) washers, I reinstalled the assembly yesterday. It works perfectly.
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