Anyone been successful in purchasing a Ronco tank? I do not find a way to order on their website(Link below). They do not have a dealer list nor an -800 number. I sent an e-mail three days ago with no reply.
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You may need to do it the OLD way.
Ed: Looks like they are not very with it when it comes to the internet. You may to do it the old way. Call them on the TELEPHONE and order one! Wow, can you believe that someone still runs a business the old way. You pick up the phone and actully talk to someone.
Ed: Looks like they are not very with it when it comes to the internet. You may to do it the old way. Call them on the TELEPHONE and order one! Wow, can you believe that someone still runs a business the old way. You pick up the phone and actully talk to someone.
Steve, trying to make. . .
a point here. Should not have to do it the "old" way. Even 10-10-220 is too expensive a way to place an order.
a point here. Should not have to do it the "old" way. Even 10-10-220 is too expensive a way to place an order.
RONCO Tanks Are Great
I purchased a RONCO poly holding tank last year. I did all my negotiations on phone, then visited their factory to show where I wanted outlets placed and pick up finished tank. Paid only about half their catalog price - probably because I worked direct with them and no middleman involved. Very pleased with the tank and RONCO. Call RONCO at 714-259-1385
I purchased a RONCO poly holding tank last year. I did all my negotiations on phone, then visited their factory to show where I wanted outlets placed and pick up finished tank. Paid only about half their catalog price - probably because I worked direct with them and no middleman involved. Very pleased with the tank and RONCO. Call RONCO at 714-259-1385
and.........
they don't accept American Express, Visa, Master Card, Discover etc. I guess that they are really not a retail outlet. Contact them and ask where you can purchase one. Look at it this way. When you sell a quality product, you don't need to spend a lot of money to support an expensive computer system that only supports 5% of your business. "Web Sites are not Free"
they don't accept American Express, Visa, Master Card, Discover etc. I guess that they are really not a retail outlet. Contact them and ask where you can purchase one. Look at it this way. When you sell a quality product, you don't need to spend a lot of money to support an expensive computer system that only supports 5% of your business. "Web Sites are not Free"
Oh for heaven's sake Ed!
I never cease to be amazed at the number of people who'll pay $150-$5,000 for an item, but complain about another $1-$2 for the phone to call to order it. What most people don't realize is that the customer pays for the call, whether a company has an 800# or not--if it doesn't, he pays the phone company...if they do, he pays for it in the form of a higher price for the goods the company sells. I can't count the number of people I know of who willingly pay $5 more for the same item from a company that has an 800#...just to save $1.50 on their phone bill. Go figure... 800#s aren't free...in fact, the per minute charge is more than double the cost of a direct dial call. Many companies, especially those whose business is mostly wholesale (as is Ronco's), have done away with them because customers and "tire kickers" who call 800#s tend to drag conversations out forever...adding to the company's overhead for both the call and their employees' time. It all adds up, and ultimately contributes to the price. Ronco's telephone number is 714-259-1385. Their fax # (which you'll need to send 'em a copy of the drawing showing where you want the fittings and the sizes) is 714-259-0759. Both numbers are on their website. Spec out your fittings, fax Ronco a drawing that has your name and the mold number on it, along with a note saying you'll call to discuss and order it...call 'em to make sure you haven't done anything that won't work. I'd offer to look at your drawing, but my fax number isn't an 800#...it'll cost you $.15 to send it to me.
I never cease to be amazed at the number of people who'll pay $150-$5,000 for an item, but complain about another $1-$2 for the phone to call to order it. What most people don't realize is that the customer pays for the call, whether a company has an 800# or not--if it doesn't, he pays the phone company...if they do, he pays for it in the form of a higher price for the goods the company sells. I can't count the number of people I know of who willingly pay $5 more for the same item from a company that has an 800#...just to save $1.50 on their phone bill. Go figure... 800#s aren't free...in fact, the per minute charge is more than double the cost of a direct dial call. Many companies, especially those whose business is mostly wholesale (as is Ronco's), have done away with them because customers and "tire kickers" who call 800#s tend to drag conversations out forever...adding to the company's overhead for both the call and their employees' time. It all adds up, and ultimately contributes to the price. Ronco's telephone number is 714-259-1385. Their fax # (which you'll need to send 'em a copy of the drawing showing where you want the fittings and the sizes) is 714-259-0759. Both numbers are on their website. Spec out your fittings, fax Ronco a drawing that has your name and the mold number on it, along with a note saying you'll call to discuss and order it...call 'em to make sure you haven't done anything that won't work. I'd offer to look at your drawing, but my fax number isn't an 800#...it'll cost you $.15 to send it to me.
She Missed the Mark
I get your point, Ed. Peggy missed it, though. I'll bet you a beer the next time you are at the marina that you were not complaining about expenses, cost, or what it takes to run a company. Seems to me that you were just looking for a more functional web site. Jeff
I get your point, Ed. Peggy missed it, though. I'll bet you a beer the next time you are at the marina that you were not complaining about expenses, cost, or what it takes to run a company. Seems to me that you were just looking for a more functional web site. Jeff
I didn't miss the mark...
Ed WAS complaining that he'd have to pay for a long distance call to order the tank: "Shouldn't have to do it the 'old way'...even 10-10-220 is too expensive a way to place an order." Ronco isn't a mail order company, they're manufacturers. Their website includes their entire catalog, prices, and telephone numbers to call to actually talk with a real live person to get technical assistance and placing orders. How much more functional do you think a manufacturer's website should be? Or do you expect every company that has a website to be a mail order company? Take a look at Raritan's website...Wilcox-Crittenden's...SeaLand's...none of them are mail order retailers either. They include the same amount of information--or even less--that Ronco's website includes: their catalog of products, prices (some of them, not all), address and telephone numbers...no ability to buy direct online at all. Because none of them are mail order retailers either. However, you CAN call West Marine's 800# to order a Ronco tank or products from any of the above named companies--they ARE mail order retailers. You might even be able to do it online. It just depends upon whether you want to pay WM's mark-up for the "convenience" of never having to endure any human contact or pay for the call.
Ed WAS complaining that he'd have to pay for a long distance call to order the tank: "Shouldn't have to do it the 'old way'...even 10-10-220 is too expensive a way to place an order." Ronco isn't a mail order company, they're manufacturers. Their website includes their entire catalog, prices, and telephone numbers to call to actually talk with a real live person to get technical assistance and placing orders. How much more functional do you think a manufacturer's website should be? Or do you expect every company that has a website to be a mail order company? Take a look at Raritan's website...Wilcox-Crittenden's...SeaLand's...none of them are mail order retailers either. They include the same amount of information--or even less--that Ronco's website includes: their catalog of products, prices (some of them, not all), address and telephone numbers...no ability to buy direct online at all. Because none of them are mail order retailers either. However, you CAN call West Marine's 800# to order a Ronco tank or products from any of the above named companies--they ARE mail order retailers. You might even be able to do it online. It just depends upon whether you want to pay WM's mark-up for the "convenience" of never having to endure any human contact or pay for the call.
Jeff's right, Peggy's wrong.
If you read the thread correctly I was asking if there was a better way to order, like through a dealer. The post regarding the "old way" has a smiley face, I thought people knew what that meant. As one who has been in the computer world since 1962 I appreciate the web-sites that make it easy to order products. And I know EXACTLY the effort and cost to make it easy, it's what I do. SEALAND, for example, DOES have a directory to dealers. I just thought, since Peggy is always promoting Ronco on HOW, that I might get a civil answer about how to PROPERLY order. But I will except the one I got because Ronco makes a superior product. Hope this ends it.
If you read the thread correctly I was asking if there was a better way to order, like through a dealer. The post regarding the "old way" has a smiley face, I thought people knew what that meant. As one who has been in the computer world since 1962 I appreciate the web-sites that make it easy to order products. And I know EXACTLY the effort and cost to make it easy, it's what I do. SEALAND, for example, DOES have a directory to dealers. I just thought, since Peggy is always promoting Ronco on HOW, that I might get a civil answer about how to PROPERLY order. But I will except the one I got because Ronco makes a superior product. Hope this ends it.
Peggy, my two bits...
Sailors are cheap Why do you think we crawl around inside cramped boats doing things like fixing heads ourselves if we aren't nickel and diming it? Seriously, I think that all of us do-it-yourself sailors take a great deal of pride in the fact that we can make our boats better, safer, and at the same time learn how to maintain them. I know that this reply is a little off the mark as far as the thread goes, but it is on the mark as to the pride we take in maintaining our boats. Tom
Sailors are cheap
Why do you think we crawl around inside cramped boats doing things like fixing heads ourselves if we aren't nickel and diming it? Seriously, I think that all of us do-it-yourself sailors take a great deal of pride in the fact that we can make our boats better, safer, and at the same time learn how to maintain them. I know that this reply is a little off the mark as far as the thread goes, but it is on the mark as to the pride we take in maintaining our boats. TomRonco followup.
Thought you should know that I did receive a nice note from Rick at Ronco. I had asked about their return policy. He said they cannot take back a tank because the inlet/outlet connections are customized. But he said they would send me a blank tank so that I could size the fit, mark the inlet/outlet/vent, and return it for adding those. Sounds good to me.
Thought you should know that I did receive a nice note from Rick at Ronco. I had asked about their return policy. He said they cannot take back a tank because the inlet/outlet connections are customized. But he said they would send me a blank tank so that I could size the fit, mark the inlet/outlet/vent, and return it for adding those. Sounds good to me.
Ed, what prevents you from indicating on a drawing
(a copy of Ronco's drawing) where you want the fittings and what size they should each be? If you can't visualize it any other way, make a cardboard or sheet styrofoam mock-up...set it in place, and plumb to it, marking on it where the fittings should go. Then fax Ronco a copy of the drawing showing on it where you want them to install the fittings. That's certainly easier, less expensive, and less time consuming than sending a tank back and forth to CA twice...and it gives UPS only ONE chance to crack it instead of three.
(a copy of Ronco's drawing) where you want the fittings and what size they should each be? If you can't visualize it any other way, make a cardboard or sheet styrofoam mock-up...set it in place, and plumb to it, marking on it where the fittings should go. Then fax Ronco a copy of the drawing showing on it where you want them to install the fittings. That's certainly easier, less expensive, and less time consuming than sending a tank back and forth to CA twice...and it gives UPS only ONE chance to crack it instead of three.
Sorry my post was not clearer.
I did not mean that I would actually do that, have it shipped twice. I was just commenting on what I thought was good customer service. I, in fact, have a template made for one of their 30 gallon tanks. It is 24"x20"x16". The template has to be foldable because the locker opening is too small. I won't cut the v-berth locker opening larger until I see how the template fits. Once in the locker, which is much larger than the tank dimensions, I need to find the best location. That will dictate the inlet/outlet locations. And I have to leave room to get to the bottom of the locker because that is where the log/depth thru-hulls are located. By the way, I asked Rick at Ronco if they will put the discharge connection at the TOP of the tank. And the answer is YES(using a standpipe). But I still hope I have room to take it off the bottom. C'mon Saturday!
I did not mean that I would actually do that, have it shipped twice. I was just commenting on what I thought was good customer service. I, in fact, have a template made for one of their 30 gallon tanks. It is 24"x20"x16". The template has to be foldable because the locker opening is too small. I won't cut the v-berth locker opening larger until I see how the template fits. Once in the locker, which is much larger than the tank dimensions, I need to find the best location. That will dictate the inlet/outlet locations. And I have to leave room to get to the bottom of the locker because that is where the log/depth thru-hulls are located. By the way, I asked Rick at Ronco if they will put the discharge connection at the TOP of the tank. And the answer is YES(using a standpipe). But I still hope I have room to take it off the bottom. C'mon Saturday!
Put ALL the fitting on top if you can, Ed...
You'll need at least 5" clearance above the tank to do that, but if you can, it's the best way to go, because it eliminates standing sewage--which leads to permeation--in any hose. It also eliminates spills when hoses inevitably have to replaced or in the event, God forbid, a connection failure, and prevents waste from running back toward the toilet when the boat is heeled unless the tank is full to overflowing...and, it increases the useable capacity of the tank. Just make sure the discharge fitting is over the lowest point on the tank when the tank is installed. Whatever you do, do NOT put any fittings ON the bottom of the tank...the hoses coming off 'em will always be full of waste with the full weight of the amount in tank bearing down on the hose and connections. And anything a guest might flush into the tank to clog the discharge hose will always settle to the lowest point, which will be in any hose at the bottom...with no way to disconnect the hose to unclog it without a major spill. If you don't have enough clearance above the tank to put all the fittings on the top, put the discharge fitting on a vertical surface AT the bottom, never on the bottom. The tank vent needs only 2-3" clearance, and it should always go on the top...Put it toward the centerline of the boat, so the vent hose has to run across the tank to the hull (or on the centerline at the forward end if the tank is centered in the boat)...that prevents sewage from running our the vent when you're heeled. And don't forget to include a 3" inspection port. E-mail me if you need to discuss specifics in detail.
You'll need at least 5" clearance above the tank to do that, but if you can, it's the best way to go, because it eliminates standing sewage--which leads to permeation--in any hose. It also eliminates spills when hoses inevitably have to replaced or in the event, God forbid, a connection failure, and prevents waste from running back toward the toilet when the boat is heeled unless the tank is full to overflowing...and, it increases the useable capacity of the tank. Just make sure the discharge fitting is over the lowest point on the tank when the tank is installed. Whatever you do, do NOT put any fittings ON the bottom of the tank...the hoses coming off 'em will always be full of waste with the full weight of the amount in tank bearing down on the hose and connections. And anything a guest might flush into the tank to clog the discharge hose will always settle to the lowest point, which will be in any hose at the bottom...with no way to disconnect the hose to unclog it without a major spill. If you don't have enough clearance above the tank to put all the fittings on the top, put the discharge fitting on a vertical surface AT the bottom, never on the bottom. The tank vent needs only 2-3" clearance, and it should always go on the top...Put it toward the centerline of the boat, so the vent hose has to run across the tank to the hull (or on the centerline at the forward end if the tank is centered in the boat)...that prevents sewage from running our the vent when you're heeled. And don't forget to include a 3" inspection port. E-mail me if you need to discuss specifics in detail.
Top?
Peggy, are we talking on the top, pointing up? Or do you mean on the side but AT the top? And if the connections do come out the top do they use elbows so that the hose does not have to bend. Picture that this tank is in a locker where the top of the tank is only a few inches lower than the v-berth cover. So the hoses can not "point" down. The hoses presently come into the center v-berth section through a hole from the starboard v-berth locker. That hole is right under the fiberglass which IS the v-berth. And I have read everything that you ever wrote on HOW but maybe it's time to revisit.
Peggy, are we talking on the top, pointing up? Or do you mean on the side but AT the top? And if the connections do come out the top do they use elbows so that the hose does not have to bend. Picture that this tank is in a locker where the top of the tank is only a few inches lower than the v-berth cover. So the hoses can not "point" down. The hoses presently come into the center v-berth section through a hole from the starboard v-berth locker. That hole is right under the fiberglass which IS the v-berth. And I have read everything that you ever wrote on HOW but maybe it's time to revisit.
ON the top, Ed...not on a side at the top
And yes, elbow fittings for any hoses approaching the tank horizontally. But "they" don't use elbows, YOU do...the fittings installed in the tank at the factory are threaded female fittings...you supply the male thread-barb fittings. There's absolutely no difference between sucking waste up a hose from a fitting at the bottom of a tank and sucking waste up a straight pipe inside the tank that's connect to a hose which goes the rest of the way to the deck fitting...it's the same distance, the same diameter hose. Nor can you get any more out of the tank one way or the other...the pumpout will lose prime and start to suck air when the level in the tank drops below the top of a fitting on the side of the tank...the standpipe has to be cut at about a 25 degree angle (it can't rest flat against the bottom 'cuz any undissolved solids or paper will get under it and block it)...so as long as either one is at the lowest point in the tank, the pumpout will get the same amount. However, a 1.5" elbow fitting sticks up 4.5" above the tank, so you need at least 5" clearance to put the inlet and outlet on the top. But the vent only needs about 2"...and the top is the BEST place for it.
And yes, elbow fittings for any hoses approaching the tank horizontally. But "they" don't use elbows, YOU do...the fittings installed in the tank at the factory are threaded female fittings...you supply the male thread-barb fittings. There's absolutely no difference between sucking waste up a hose from a fitting at the bottom of a tank and sucking waste up a straight pipe inside the tank that's connect to a hose which goes the rest of the way to the deck fitting...it's the same distance, the same diameter hose. Nor can you get any more out of the tank one way or the other...the pumpout will lose prime and start to suck air when the level in the tank drops below the top of a fitting on the side of the tank...the standpipe has to be cut at about a 25 degree angle (it can't rest flat against the bottom 'cuz any undissolved solids or paper will get under it and block it)...so as long as either one is at the lowest point in the tank, the pumpout will get the same amount. However, a 1.5" elbow fitting sticks up 4.5" above the tank, so you need at least 5" clearance to put the inlet and outlet on the top. But the vent only needs about 2"...and the top is the BEST place for it.
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