How to blank out (fill in) holes in after deck

tim_klynn · May 17, 2012

Repairing gel coat isn't that tough, but if I didn't want to do it, and wanted an easy fix, I would probably install a screw in deck plate over the holes.
You could always drill the hole bigger to fit the deck plate/inspection plate. Here's some deck plates: http://greatlakesskipper.com/catego...ort-windows-inspector-plates-and-hatches.htmlAlternatively, you could do as you suggest, screw on a backing piece of plywood, but then I would cut out another wood disc to fit the hole (about 6mm smaller than the hole), epoxy coat this piece, set it in
in the hole wet, screw it to the backing plywood from below and then fill the 3mm gap around the perimeter and level the top with epoxy. To finish, you could then cover with the stainless steel plate (which would then just be a cosmetic uv cover for the epoxy. I only suggest epoxy vs auto filler, because I've heard autofiller is not waterproof and such a thick slug of it may shrink and crack around the perimeter.
-Tim________________________________
From: John Kinsella John.Kinsella@...
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 3:25 AM
Subject: [AlbinVega] How to blank out (fill in) holes in after deck

Hi all.
I discovered that a lot of rain water (& some lake water in wet
conditions) was getting in through the two mushroom vents on the small
after deck of my Vega.

As the ventilation tubes were long ago disconnected I have decided to
cover/fill the small (3-4 inch diameter) holes left in the after deck.

I have temporarily covered them with pieces of plywood screwed in place
- obviously ugly and not a long term solution.

I think I am unlikely to get a good cosmetic result with glass fiber and
gelcoat.

How about screwing plywood in place *below*, filling with a grp-based
automotive filler (e.g. Isopon (c)), sanding down and screwing a
stainless steel blanking plate over the filled hole.

Overkill structurally but cosmetically better than a poorly finished
grp/gelcoat job?

Comments appreciated,

John V1447 Breakaway

--
John A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website

pjacobs55 · May 17, 2012

John,
What Tim says about automotive filler is right: it's not waterproof and is only supposed to be used in thin layers.

My cockpit bulkhead had a mass of old instruments which I removed and filled the holes.
This may (or may not!) be of help:

https://picasaweb.google.com/pjacobs55/FillingHoles#

Working on a horizontal surface is a bit easier, and you'd only have to tiddle up the side that shows. You could put a temporary scrap of plywood across the back of the hole (covered with plastic so the patches would not stick to it) and use plywood plugs, epoxyed in, to fill the holes.

They should sit a touch below the finished surface to allow some fiberglass cloth/epoxy and fairing filler to be used. Grinding the edges of the holes back on a slight bevel will make sure the plugs are strong, especially if you run the cloth past the patches and into the bevel.

A bit of non-skid paint done in a contrasting colour would hide the whole thing.

Or.........
A couple of pieces of StarBoard, with beveled edges, screwed over the holes and sealed with Sikaflex would be just as effective, and leave open the option of re-using the holes at a later date!

Peter
www.sintacha.com

jbergman888 · May 17, 2012

Aren't those vents necessary for proper ventilation?
Bruce
s/v Cygnet 169

tim_klynn · May 17, 2012

I think the vents are supposed to be an intake for the engine and the bilge-mast circulation system.
On my boat, there was an exhaust bilge blower attached to one of them. I think the other one is attached to a glassed in
duct on the port side (under the settee), via some flexible duct. The idea being the air is cooled as it travels along the lower hull, moisture
condenses out and the drier air enters the cabin, while hotter air rises out the mast.

I would leave the vents in. My plastic vents are cracked and glued back together. I've thought about glassing in some dorade boxes at the

aft corners of the coamings where water collects, putting removable dorade vents there and glassing over the plastic existing decks. Thinking about it is

probably all the farther along I'm going to get on that project for a while...

Just replacing the existing vents with the same seems easiest. I've never had leaks there. .tim
________________________________
From: JOSEPH BERGMAN jbergman888@...
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 9:59 AM
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: How to blank out (fill in) holes in after deck

Aren't those vents necessary for proper ventilation?
Bruce
s/v Cygnet 169

pjacobs55 · May 17, 2012

I put a nice stainless steel mushroom vent with solar powered fan back
there, on exhaust. It is tough enough to stand on and keeps those closed
compartments airy.

Boats need ventilation. Mildew hates it.

And if Per Brohall had wanted us to glass over his vents, he wouldn't have
put them there in the first place!

Nicholas H. Walsh P.A.

120 Exchange Street

P.O. Box 7206

Portland ME 04112

207/772-2191

Fax 207/774-3940

This email is from a law firm and may contain material that is confidential
or privileged. If you suspect you were not the intended recipient, please
delete the email and give us a call.

emmajen5 · May 17, 2012

Yes, I agree. The ventilation system is not so much for cooling as
for dehumidifing. I've never had a boat that had so little winter
condensation as the Vega.

Garry
V. 2427

pjacobs55 · May 17, 2012

I'll second that ... my Vega is a very dry boat, too. I had one large mushroom vent on the stern deck to ventilate the bilge, originally occupied by an Albin 022 gas (petrol) engine. I had to fill it in when the propane locker was installed there.

A replacement vent was installed in the aft cockpit wall, just below the aft hatch. There's also an original vent in the forward port side of the cockpit, which is ducted into the engine room and under the port setee. This seems to keep lots of air flowing, as well as a cracked open fore hatch and the head vent.

Peter
www.sintacha.com

How to blank out (fill in) holes in after deck

Vega1447

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tim_klynn

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pjacobs55

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jbergman888

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tim_klynn

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Vega1447

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pjacobs55

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emmajen5

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pjacobs55

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