How to Attach a Block to a solid toe rail?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Oct 1, 2008
148
Bavaria 36 Cruiser Nanaimo, BC
My boat has a solid (no holes) slightly curved (inboard at the top) aluminum toe rail. I have been contemplating how to attach a turning block (particularly snatch block) to the rail forward of my genoa track to allow for improved sheeting angles when going downwind (broad reach). The boat is 36 feet long and has a 150% genoa. Anyone ever done this successfully or have any workable ideas on how to do this and to ensure it will take the load in 30 knot gusts?

Thanks,
Tom:)
 

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Got a portable drill?
 

RAD

.
Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Install a track that way you have all kinds of adjustments and use the tool suggested by Ross to complete the project
 
Oct 1, 2008
148
Bavaria 36 Cruiser Nanaimo, BC
Hole Location

Thanks for the replies. I did think about the drill, Ross, but where to drill. I didn't want to just turn my toe rail into swiss cheese :D.
Any ideas on how to locate the ideal spot? (Assuming drilling a hole is the only way to achieve this).
Thanks again,
Tom
 

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Re: Hole Location

The track is a good suggestion. Genny track would serve.
 

higgs

.
Aug 24, 2005
3,715
Nassau 34 Olcott, NY
If you want to attach a snatch block to a toe rail you have no other option but to drill a hole. where exactly to place the hole is a matter of trial and error. You can make intelliegnet guesses, but until you actually sail with the snatch block position you are only guessing.
 

Ted

.
Jan 26, 2005
1,272
C&C 110 Bay Shore, Long Island, NY
Install some Winchard toe rail pad eyes. You will have to drill a small hole in your aluminum toe rail to fasten it in place. Once you've determined a good average lead location, you can drill a series of holes 4" or 6" on center forward and aft of that location to allow for fine tuning. They are fairly easy to move to a different location once the holes are drilled.

http://www.mauriprosailing.com/category/Wichard-Toe-Rail-Pad-Eyes.html
 
Jan 4, 2006
282
West Coast
Build an adjustable pad-eye jig

If you really want to only drill one hole, set up a jig to experiment with.

Two 8-inch sections of 2x4. Clamp them lengthwise (fore and aft) to sandwich a likely spot along the toe rail. Maybe cut a groove to accept the turned-in top of the toe rail to help secure it. Drill down through one piece, insert an eye-bolt with a 4" shaft, and secure with washer and nut. Attach snatch block to your temporary pad-eye.

You could tether the C-clamps to stanchions, so that if you get a strong gust and the jig carries away, you won't lose the clamps.

Test it out on a light wind day, and when on the opposite tack, you can slide it fore or aft to try different points of sail/sheeting angles. Pretty soon you'll find your sweet spot.

Then confidently drill only one hole on each side. Maybe relieve the edges of the hole with a rat-tail file, unless you're going to go for that $113 toe rail pad-eye, but I don't know if that will fit if your toe rail is bent in at the top. If you clip the block directly, you might get some strange wear where the toe rail bends inboard, but it shouldn't interfere with function.
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
There is NO ideal spot. Unless you only always sail on the same run with the same wind speed and wave action you will need several different locations for your turning block. Which is why they make tracks. Helps for the upwind courses also.
With all that said I'm thinking this is a solution looking for a problem.
Why do you think the sheeting angles are not what they should be?
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Also, I've never heard of someone sheeting Forward of the existing track to improve downwind sheeting. You would want to be sheeting further back on the boat to accomplish that. using a turning block forward of the shrouds, while a interesting idea, is not a common practice
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,762
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
We used to sheet the genoa to the spinnaker turning block on the transom to get the clew a little more outboard. Sheeting it more forward would seem to do the opposite. Anyway a pole is a good way to get the clew outboard.
 
Nov 2, 2010
114
Precision 28 Ashland, Oregon
I'm pretty sure you're talking about a "barber hauler" right? If your toenail had a little rounded lip at the top (many do) you could probably do some temporary testing using a common C Clamp...
 
Oct 1, 2008
148
Bavaria 36 Cruiser Nanaimo, BC
Thanks for all the replies. Some useful and interesting ideas.
My existing genoa track (adjustable from the cockpit) is on the side deck, near the cabin top, about even with the shrouds/chainplates. This is approx. 18" to 24" from the rail. I have been told, that to obtain better sail performance (especially for a 150 genoa) when going on a broad reach, the sheet lead should be moved outboard and forward. I don't own a pole (and currently haven't got a spare $1700) and was looking for a way to gain a little more in terms of sailing angles and possibly genoa efficiency.
I will definitely try the jig idea. I am not sure how I would attach a track to the rail, but I will look at what is available next time I am at a marine supply.
Thanks,
Tom
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
The tradewinds solution: Strap a snatch block to the outer end of your boom and lead the genoa sheet to it and down to the winch.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.