I'm about to haul-out my Hunter 30 and do my first bottom paint job. Last year the yard used Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote, so after a good pressure wash, I think I'm looking at sanding enough to rough it up and paint over it. Whaddayathink? Can I do it in two eight to ten hour days?
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Scuffed it with what?
Rick, Maybe a little more detail...What did you scuff it with? Rotary power sander? Hand sand? Any other repairs? Thanx
Rick, Maybe a little more detail...What did you scuff it with? Rotary power sander? Hand sand? Any other repairs? Thanx
Surface Prep
Dean, Check the application instructions. I think you may need to wipe it down with a chemical before painting. Also, when you buy roller covers for your roller, be sure to get the type that don't fray and produce fuzzies all through your paint application. good luck, Mike D
Dean, Check the application instructions. I think you may need to wipe it down with a chemical before painting. Also, when you buy roller covers for your roller, be sure to get the type that don't fray and produce fuzzies all through your paint application. good luck, Mike D
HI DEAN, I LIVE HERE IN MUKILTEO...
I've had the best results using the sanding material used to smooth out regular wall compound that builders use. Home Depot has it and I also use the swivel pad that screws onto the end of a standard threaded wooden handle. That way the stuff does not fall into your face. Most marinas (Everett) require that you tent your boat if you use power sanders. This way no tenting is required. It took me a day to prep my H28, then a coat per day to roll on the paint. I used regular house paint rollers screwed onto the end of the same threaded pole. Use a short nap roller that will hold together with the paint. Some foam rollers fall apart from the strong drying chemicals in the paint. Good luck. Terry
I've had the best results using the sanding material used to smooth out regular wall compound that builders use. Home Depot has it and I also use the swivel pad that screws onto the end of a standard threaded wooden handle. That way the stuff does not fall into your face. Most marinas (Everett) require that you tent your boat if you use power sanders. This way no tenting is required. It took me a day to prep my H28, then a coat per day to roll on the paint. I used regular house paint rollers screwed onto the end of the same threaded pole. Use a short nap roller that will hold together with the paint. Some foam rollers fall apart from the strong drying chemicals in the paint. Good luck. Terry
What about the keel?
I've been reading a lot about iron keels, and expect that I will have some rust spots on mine when I haul out. Terry, on your H27, you must have an iron keel. Did you use Interprotect 2000E, epoxy, etc., or did you just paint over it with the same paint you used on rest of the hull? Thanks..
I've been reading a lot about iron keels, and expect that I will have some rust spots on mine when I haul out. Terry, on your H27, you must have an iron keel. Did you use Interprotect 2000E, epoxy, etc., or did you just paint over it with the same paint you used on rest of the hull? Thanks..
don't jinx yourself
Don't count on getting it done in two days. First time I did the bottom paint on my 1998 h410, I thought it would be an easy 3-day job. Little did I know that I'd find over 100 blisters awaiting me.
Don't count on getting it done in two days. First time I did the bottom paint on my 1998 h410, I thought it would be an easy 3-day job. Little did I know that I'd find over 100 blisters awaiting me.
LEAD KEEL ON MY H28...
scrapped clean a few surface blisters, feathered them with the abrasive, and two years later still looked good. I used WM's bottom paint (not the ablative type). Followed the same procedure when I did my P42 bottom this summer, except I used WM's ablative bottom paint. Took me three short (six hour) days. WM, or the paint manufacturer, can advise you on the proper prep for an iron keel. Terry
scrapped clean a few surface blisters, feathered them with the abrasive, and two years later still looked good. I used WM's bottom paint (not the ablative type). Followed the same procedure when I did my P42 bottom this summer, except I used WM's ablative bottom paint. Took me three short (six hour) days. WM, or the paint manufacturer, can advise you on the proper prep for an iron keel. Terry
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