How many coats of Cetol?

[Mike G.]

Been working on my bright work and applied three coats of Cetol Natural. Then followed with three coats of Cetol gloss as recommended. However, there are some areas where the grain is so deep on this old boat that the gloss amplified the grain. Too late, but I shouldn't have used the gloss.

Two or Three more coats of gloss will probably fill the voids, but I think that I read somewhere on this site or somewhere else that too many coats of Cetol will result in it cracking under the sunlight. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[philwsailz]

My experience is that show boats with too many coats of VARNISH have issues, but in my experience, with proper preparation, I hve no problem with 8 to 12 coats of Cetol. I sand after every 4th coat using 320 grit and gentle hand sanding. I am only knocking the high spots down to drop to the low grain voids. With this method, your total build will end up the same as just a few coats on the high spots, and the low spots adhere fine, due to the machanical adhesion the low spots provide.

You might consider sanding after your 6 coats, and then put on a few more of the natural. See what happens. Then pop the gloss back on.

I am currently working on a tiller restoration for a buddy of mine. Using only Cetol, I have totally filled the old tired grain, and with my method have taken the surface finish to totally flat. It works. By now, you have probably figured out that Cetol is much easier to apply than varnish. I use it exclusively for my sailboat brightwork. I save the varnish for my old woodies... and I cheat and use Cetol on those where I can...

good luck!

 

[berner73]

I sanded with 320 very lightly as needed, probably every 2 coats to remove imperfections. Total of 3 Natural, 6 gloss. I had better luck with relatively thin layers even though the instructions indicate a heavier application.

Didn't like the looks of the orange Cetol, but I read a lot of posts regarding the Natural followed with gloss so I gave it a try. I just did the hatch boards and cockpit table as I want to see how it holds up before doing the rest of the boat. No cracking yet and the color doesn't appear to have changed (turned orange) from being in the sun this season. A couple of "before" shots

 

[Mike G.]

Thanks for the suggestions. Other than the deep grain voids, it looks nice.
I am finding that it takes a long time to cure. Maybe it has been too humid?

Speaking of humidity -- I had a heck of a time applying gloss polyurethane last year to some teak from the interior. I applied it in my basement using the best brushes, then tried foam brushes. The tiny bubbles just wouldn't go away. I tried heating it as well with no success.

This summer I did some more work in my garage and noticed no bubbles with the higher humidity. Live and learn!!!

 

[Chuckbear]

Mike, We have been using Cetol for several years now. You should have no issues if you want to add a couple more coats. We have applied up to 6 coats of the gloss in problem areas will no ill affects. Chuck

 

[RichH]

Confessions of a former 'varnish-aholic'.

The thicker the coating the more vulnerability for cracking. The thinner the coating the better the chance for water 'behind' the coating to permeate 'through' the coating (vapor pressure).
To 'fill' errant valleys, etc. after several 'base coats', I use a plastic-polyethylene trowel to 'push' the coating into the 'errors' and which immediately removes the coating from the 'hills'. Several 'troweling sessions' are usually needed to develop a FLAT surface; then, 'flat sanding' and one or two more full coats to finish, etc. Thin coats are 'more flexible'.