How Loud is Your M25
- Thread starter gpd955
- Start date
- Status
I have found an excellent solution for re-tapping and threading stripped or drilled out holes. The insert is called Timesert. Unlike a Helicoil or similar they are a thin full thread shell that is expanded into an oversized tapped hole (same pitch). Available in steel or stainless and various lengths. Kit includes drill, tap, cobore and insertion tool. Drill bit is razor sharp and they recommend using a tap handle to hand drill. I use a vee block to hold the drill square.
I used M14 Timeserts to fix my stripped cylinder head bolt holes in the block of my BMW engine. 20,000 miles ago. Don't want to be too commercial, but when faced with a gaping hole where our threads used to be, we need to know we have options.
I used M14 Timeserts to fix my stripped cylinder head bolt holes in the block of my BMW engine. 20,000 miles ago. Don't want to be too commercial, but when faced with a gaping hole where our threads used to be, we need to know we have options.
Nice Idea rukidn; Update
rukidn, very nice idea; especially if you are lacking in talent like me and screw something up
, Timesert gives you a chance to recover.
At any rate after forgetting a few tools last trip, I got the engine pulled today and got the new mounts in place. What is nice about the new ones is that I can remove them one at a time if needed. I am thinking about trying Witz's idea and adding a 3/8" spacer block below the mount to move it up a little.
My idea was to install the forward mounts and secure them using the front bolt hole, and attach the rear mounts to the engine so when I set it down they would somewhat be in place. Did that and looked and the front holes on the rear mounts aligned with the front holes on the stringer. Now I am scratching my head as I figured they would be off. There appears to be no deflection, but I will double check next trip anyway. For now I am smiling (or is that just being delusional?).
To pull the engine I just put a 4x4 over the coach roof, attached my come along and added chains to the lifting points. Just for PaulJ I attached the pics from my cell phone.
rukidn, very nice idea; especially if you are lacking in talent like me and screw something up
, Timesert gives you a chance to recover.At any rate after forgetting a few tools last trip, I got the engine pulled today and got the new mounts in place. What is nice about the new ones is that I can remove them one at a time if needed. I am thinking about trying Witz's idea and adding a 3/8" spacer block below the mount to move it up a little.
My idea was to install the forward mounts and secure them using the front bolt hole, and attach the rear mounts to the engine so when I set it down they would somewhat be in place. Did that and looked and the front holes on the rear mounts aligned with the front holes on the stringer. Now I am scratching my head as I figured they would be off. There appears to be no deflection, but I will double check next trip anyway. For now I am smiling (or is that just being delusional?).
To pull the engine I just put a 4x4 over the coach roof, attached my come along and added chains to the lifting points. Just for PaulJ I attached the pics from my cell phone.
Attachments
Glad it lined up. From the photo #1 you have room to add Witz spacer and get two bolts into the mount. Clearance hole in front, tapped for rear mount hole and clearance for the original rear mount hole. Only one bolt per mount is likely a problem the way this engine shakes.
Use the original holes to mount the blocks and one of the new mount holes and then a bolt up through the block through the other hole on your new mount and just put a nut on it. I would also highly recommend that you do a engine alignment before drilling any more holes. Your new mounts do not allow any lateral adjustment.
Finished and very happy!
OK, I finally finished swapping out my motor mounts today and am pretty pleased. I did not want to totally pull the engine and re-drill and re-tap new holes if I could avoid it. Plus I wanted to reduce the distance from the motor mount to the engine if possible. My final solution was to get some 1/4" x 3" steel plate, drill holes 4" and 5" off center, square out the 4" off center holes and put in 3/8" carriage bolts standing up. I then put a piece of think cork gasket underneath the plate when I mounted it. I did have to grind out a little of the gelcoat/fiberglass to make some room for the bolt heads.
What is nice about these mounts is you can replace them with the engine in place as the bolt coming out the top is threaded in and held in place with a lock nut.
Bottom line is the knocking I had is gone as well as a lot of the vibration. Note I attached a screen print of the db level I took, but since then I realized I had to boards and cushions removed from the aft bunk so it should be even quieter than it is now. Boat is much much quieter and smoother.
OK, I finally finished swapping out my motor mounts today and am pretty pleased. I did not want to totally pull the engine and re-drill and re-tap new holes if I could avoid it. Plus I wanted to reduce the distance from the motor mount to the engine if possible. My final solution was to get some 1/4" x 3" steel plate, drill holes 4" and 5" off center, square out the 4" off center holes and put in 3/8" carriage bolts standing up. I then put a piece of think cork gasket underneath the plate when I mounted it. I did have to grind out a little of the gelcoat/fiberglass to make some room for the bolt heads.
What is nice about these mounts is you can replace them with the engine in place as the bolt coming out the top is threaded in and held in place with a lock nut.
Bottom line is the knocking I had is gone as well as a lot of the vibration. Note I attached a screen print of the db level I took, but since then I realized I had to boards and cushions removed from the aft bunk so it should be even quieter than it is now. Boat is much much quieter and smoother.
Attachments
I know there are kits for soundproofing the Universal 25; anyone have any experience with them? My boat is pretty unpleasantly loud under power (2500 rpm) for people sitting below.
- Status