How hard is it to replace bowman gray portlights on a 37C?

[JBurans]

Hi all,
You have all been very helpful with my questions - thank you! Courageous my 1983 Hunter 37 C - which is in wonderful shape these days - still has the old plastic bowman gray portlights - I actually replaced the lens on the portlights and most of the gaskets - makes her very bright and light inside!! I know these aren't the greatest portlights but not up to the expense of changing them out - MY PROBLEM - on the inside in the cabin one of the dogs on the bottom of a large portlight has "cracked" away from the portlight frame that is screwed into the bulkhead - causing a minor leak from time to time - I know that repacement portlight units are for sale - how hard is it to just replace this outer plastic portion of the portlight that is screwed into the bulkhead (likely the exterior plastic of the portlight) does you just unscrew the screws and then this piece, that the dogs attach to and the upper hinges of the lens attach to, comes off???? With a replacement unit portlight - I might then just use this piece correct??? I know I can seal the lens shut with sealant but would prefer to have the portlight open and close - don't want to have to replace the entire portlight just the piece that is screwed into the cabin bulkhead - any assistance would be greatly appreciated or know where used parts might be located - thanks as always - Jim

 

[Ed Schenck]

The piece that is screwed into the cabin bulkhead IS the portlight. The outside part is just the trim ring. You can see this clearly in "Hunter Owners Modifications" for the H37C under the "Boat Info" tab at the top of the page. There are two or three portlight replacement projects with pictures. I will add one picture here. And these portlights are available in the store right here on HOW.

 

[JBurans]

Ed Thank you -

Hi Ed,
I was just scanning some other threads - I will search now on your suggestion - when removing the portlight do the screws that you see the heads of in the cabin screw into the trim ring on the outside of the boat - in practice is it hard to pull out the old portlight if it is sealed with an adhesive like 5200 - the portlights on my boat seem to be the originals - what is the best way to pull out the old portlight??
Thanks,
Jim

 

[Ed Schenck]

No, the inside screws simply go into the coring. The outside rings are a problem, some were "glued" on with the silicone sealant. Others, like mine, used silicone sealant AND screws from the outside. The rings usually break when you try to remove them. Not a problem if you are buying a new portlight, it comes with the trim ring.

You need to get the outside ring off so that you can work on the caulking between the portlight and the boat. After you remove the screws on the inside you need to push it from the outside. The part sticking through the hole is called the spigot. The sealant is between that and the edges of the hole. It helps to dig some of that out, as much as you can. That will help it let go of the hole as you push it in.

 

[JBurans]

Ed - Thanks - doesn't sound like a huge job - what sealant do you recommend using - assume hunter did not install these with 5200? Do you think the replacement portlights of the same size are an exact fit?? Did you use a special tube to "pry" of the trim ring - my trim ring does not have screws only from the cabin into the core - do think it is wise to clamp the trim ring and the inside of the portlight until the sealant cures???
Thanks,
Jim

 

[Ed Schenck]

I am not a good source for the reinstall Jim. I replaced all of mine with NFM bronze and they were bolt-through. I think that I read that the instructions with the portlight are quite good. You might find those online on Pompanette for example. Also check those installs in Hunter Owner Mods, I think some are quite detailed. You might look at more than just the H37C, also check the other Cherubinis. All those boats had the same portlights.

Here's one from an old friend: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7383&page=article&mn=37-cutter

 

[Johnb]

I replaced a bunch of portlights with the identical unit, purchased I think from Gray in Florida. It worked out iin the end but I had to return 3 out of 8 because they were so badly made. The holes for the hinges were off center and dogs did not match up to the lenses. Even the ones I kept as usable were still a hair crooked. That was back in 2001.

One thing that did surprise me was how strong and resilient the old ones were. I dropped them on concrete, hit them with a hammer, bent and twisted them and was amazed at how much abuse they took before breaking.

The worst part of the job was cutting down the spigots after the new ones were in. This has to be done because they can accomodate a thicker coach roof than I have.

 

[sandpiper10471]

My portlights had been recently replaced by the PO. No need to cut down the spigots in MHO. However, he had bedded them with 4200 over damp/wet coring and when I acquired the boat, all leaked buckets. Pompanette recommends 5200 and yet that doesn't stick to plastics well, but better than 4200, and nothing sticks to wet wood. One side of my boat was recored and the sealant used was Lifeseal (I think. It was the one with the silicone in it). The other side didn't need new core and I sealed it with construction adhesive - Sikaflex after priming the frame and epoxied core with horribly expensive, chemically nasty, Sika primer. So far, nothing is leaking. Will be interesting to see if the $6 tubes of Sika outlast the $30 tubes of Life brand. Be careful with your choice of sealant. Some types don't stick well to plastic, others will eat it up.

Removal - best tool is a very sharp blade like a sharpened putty knife. It will cut through just about anything. Next best is an oscillating sander like the Fein or Dremmel with a scraper blade attachment. I do have many hours of experience removing these things, having owned two Cherubinis. And Ed is right - the trim rings almost always brake.