Heel and mainsail-only pointing
Hi Joe, Good man on getting out there anyway, even though the winds are kickin'. First, a personal recent experience/aside; my wife and I were out on our 'usual' FL lake this past Saturday, having a great, relaxing sail in 5-10K winds. Suddenly blasts of 15-20 started heading our way and I made the call that we furl up the jib. My 'first (best) mate' quickly did it and we ended up going the rest of the day mail-only. So, to answer your first question, it's not just you, the 170 doesn't point as high with main alone. I came to this conclusion yet again (as mentioned above) just this weekend. Also, pure physics dictate that a jib and main work more efficiently together than a main alone-- airflow is accelerated as it passes around the jib, filling/powering the main more efficiently. But that said, pointing can be improved by a little rigging modification that I spied in Jobson's 'Sailing Fundementals'. A lone 170 is pictured fighting major weather helm, skipper hiked up on the gunwale, but the boat has a traveler/bridle at its stern. So I emailed San Diego Sailing Academy (who's boat this apparently was) about this rig and they promptly emailed back saying, yes, this mod helps her point higher. The only downer is that the bridle must be unhooked from either stern cleat whenever you want to swim off the transom--- but just in case you'd like the info, here's how you modify the sheeting (courtesy Mike Monastra, SDSA): --------------------- That photo is of our Hunter 170. We set up a bridle between the stern cleats for two reasons. End boom sheeting is mechanically better than mid boom sheeting, and when sailing close hauled, with a non-slipping bridle, the boom is sheeted closer to the centerline. It's just an old dinghy racing idea. All you have to do is get rid of your four to one mid boom sheeting. Use the mid boom bail for a small Harken block. On the end of the boom, install a small bail and use a Harken block with a dead end. Then tie a small length of line between the stern cleats. In the exact middle use another small Harken block. Tie the block to the exact middle so it does not travel. That way the mainsheet will draw from the centerline. If you've got it right, the leeward side of the bridle will be slack and the weather side will hold the bottom block aft in the middle of the boat. It's trick. You'll be able to sail the boat a lot higher. --------------- I'm going to try this mod sometime soon--- midboom sheeting just robs the 170 of pointing ability when closehauled. Never thought of the difference til I took another look at my dad's Laser-- it has a bridle as well, and I swear it points almost AT the wind before stalling. As far as how far is too far when heeling...I would say any angle of heel whereby a stronger puff (on top of the already strong breeze) would cause a loss of control or ability to counter with a harder hike, is too far. When I look down and see the centerboard trunk lapping at the surface, I know I don't want to push much farther. Also, one Hunter 170 owner has posted pics in the Pictures section of his 'hiking strap' rigging project. I might try this as well sometime--- installable just for when I'm sailing solo. My wife's adventurous, but the 170's responsiveness has scared her bigtime a couple times before. Another note on heeling: I have noticed heavy-duty weather helm though as I approach 'no return'...just letting the tiller go slightly brings the heeling down and the boat higher into the wind, but the rounding up causes loss of speed, obviously. It's a nice savior, though. Of course, during your capsize/turtle training, be sure you've sounded the water's depth. Obviously getting the inverted masthead stuck in the mud is embarrassing at least... Full sails, Mike G.
I plan to capsize and turtle for experience once the water is warmer but until then, thanks for comments. Joe