I am claiming a world-record distance of trailering a Hunter 23: 2850 statute miles, or 4680 km, eh. Homeport now changed from Sandusky, Ohio to Port Moody, British Columbia after a seven day tow. Photo of Ariel at Mount Rushmore to follow. Cheers! Kevin.
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Congratulations
I’ll bet you got some strange looks in the desert fuel stops. I bought my 23.5 in February and trailered her 250 miles. I had the CB on so I could explain to the truckers I was out looking for open water. Bob SV Miss Lisa
I’ll bet you got some strange looks in the desert fuel stops. I bought my 23.5 in February and trailered her 250 miles. I had the CB on so I could explain to the truckers I was out looking for open water. Bob SV Miss Lisa
I'm impressed!
Nice job Kevin! I trailered my 26 from the dealer to the marina last Thursday (a whopping 45 miles) and found it to be the most white-knuckle experience I've had in a while. Rather sad that I was _glad_ to get into rush hour traffic because going 10 MPH was a lot easier to deal with.
Congrats on the move! Dave
Nice job Kevin! I trailered my 26 from the dealer to the marina last Thursday (a whopping 45 miles) and found it to be the most white-knuckle experience I've had in a while. Rather sad that I was _glad_ to get into rush hour traffic because going 10 MPH was a lot easier to deal with.
Congrats on the move! DaveOnly 700 miles for me, but...
I bought my 23.5 a year ago in Vancouver and pulled it to Calgary where I live. I think Vancouver to Calgary is about 700 miles, over the Rocky Mountains. The trailer broke down half-way. A bearing disintegrated. I could have lost the whole lot, maybe even me and the rental truck over a cliff but I was lucky. I stopped to check the trailer every hour or so and in Golden I found the starboard axle spindle riding bare on the rim. It had ground about 1/3 of the through the spindle. Could have been 20 minutes away from shearing off completely. 20 minutes would have put me in high, narrow mountain passes, windy roads, high cliffs, etc.
I bought my 23.5 a year ago in Vancouver and pulled it to Calgary where I live. I think Vancouver to Calgary is about 700 miles, over the Rocky Mountains. The trailer broke down half-way. A bearing disintegrated. I could have lost the whole lot, maybe even me and the rental truck over a cliff but I was lucky. I stopped to check the trailer every hour or so and in Golden I found the starboard axle spindle riding bare on the rim. It had ground about 1/3 of the through the spindle. Could have been 20 minutes away from shearing off completely. 20 minutes would have put me in high, narrow mountain passes, windy roads, high cliffs, etc.
Only 1,000 for me
Bought my 23.5 in Smith Mountain Lake, VA and trailered it to Lafayette, LA. Just around 1,000 miles. Boy and I thought I trailered mine far!
Bought my 23.5 in Smith Mountain Lake, VA and trailered it to Lafayette, LA. Just around 1,000 miles. Boy and I thought I trailered mine far!
Not all at one time
Bought my 23 in VA and drive it to OH, then spent the next spring on KY Lake. Early May I brought it back to OH for the summer, then Uncle Sam wanted me back in DC so I trailered it back to Annapolis, longest haul at one time 550 miles... total in 1 year...about 2200 miles. If the trailer is in good repair the distance traveled is not the question. The real question is are you comfortable towing a boat. That only comes with experience.
Bought my 23 in VA and drive it to OH, then spent the next spring on KY Lake. Early May I brought it back to OH for the summer, then Uncle Sam wanted me back in DC so I trailered it back to Annapolis, longest haul at one time 550 miles... total in 1 year...about 2200 miles. If the trailer is in good repair the distance traveled is not the question. The real question is are you comfortable towing a boat. That only comes with experience.
The importance of checking wheel bearings
To underscore what Rick Macdonald wrote, most insurance companies in the US now do not cover damage as a result of bearing failure on boat trailers because of too many past claims. Before we left for the West Coast with our Magic-Tilt trailer with 15 inch wheels using a 5-bolt GM rim, my 10-year daughter and I unpacked the bearings, inspected them for flaws with a magnifying glass (found none), and replaced the old seals when repacking. It is a messy but not difficult task. We carried one complete set of new bearings and seals in case needed (they weren't). While driving, my wife and I stopped often and I checked by hand touch the hub temperature, tire temperature, wheel brake drum temperature and bearing buddy status each time. The outside air temperature was between 88 and 110 degrees during trailering. Obviously, these are extreme conditions. The o-ring on the starboard bearing buddy failed with a very minor leakage of lubricant in South Dakota (in the middle of nowhere) as evidenced by an increase in hub temperature and, of course, grease leaking into the nipple area of the bearing buddy. The o-ring seal was replaced and the missing lubricant replaced. This solved the problem. With this one exception, the hub temperature was never warmer than the air temperature. However, trailer tire temperatures were always hot after trailering at highway speeds. The stops are important to let the tires cool down. We noted no temperature increases for the tires at or below 30 mph, (or 50 km/h, eh). At the start of each towing day, trailer tires were checked for cold inflation to 50 lbs/in (topping up was only needed twice in 7 days) and bearing lubricant amount was checked by viewing the inspection port on the bearing buddies. Each day bearing grease was added to top off. After 7 days of towing, 2 small tubes of lube had been used. To reply to Mark Price, maintaining the trailer and especially the wheel bearings in proper condition is essential. Confidence in being able to repack bearings on the road is part of that confidence. I agree that comfort in towing a boat is also essential. My wife Michelle did her first towing of a boat trailer on this trip and actually did about 1/3 of the distance. - Kevin.
To underscore what Rick Macdonald wrote, most insurance companies in the US now do not cover damage as a result of bearing failure on boat trailers because of too many past claims. Before we left for the West Coast with our Magic-Tilt trailer with 15 inch wheels using a 5-bolt GM rim, my 10-year daughter and I unpacked the bearings, inspected them for flaws with a magnifying glass (found none), and replaced the old seals when repacking. It is a messy but not difficult task. We carried one complete set of new bearings and seals in case needed (they weren't). While driving, my wife and I stopped often and I checked by hand touch the hub temperature, tire temperature, wheel brake drum temperature and bearing buddy status each time. The outside air temperature was between 88 and 110 degrees during trailering. Obviously, these are extreme conditions. The o-ring on the starboard bearing buddy failed with a very minor leakage of lubricant in South Dakota (in the middle of nowhere) as evidenced by an increase in hub temperature and, of course, grease leaking into the nipple area of the bearing buddy. The o-ring seal was replaced and the missing lubricant replaced. This solved the problem. With this one exception, the hub temperature was never warmer than the air temperature. However, trailer tire temperatures were always hot after trailering at highway speeds. The stops are important to let the tires cool down. We noted no temperature increases for the tires at or below 30 mph, (or 50 km/h, eh). At the start of each towing day, trailer tires were checked for cold inflation to 50 lbs/in (topping up was only needed twice in 7 days) and bearing lubricant amount was checked by viewing the inspection port on the bearing buddies. Each day bearing grease was added to top off. After 7 days of towing, 2 small tubes of lube had been used. To reply to Mark Price, maintaining the trailer and especially the wheel bearings in proper condition is essential. Confidence in being able to repack bearings on the road is part of that confidence. I agree that comfort in towing a boat is also essential. My wife Michelle did her first towing of a boat trailer on this trip and actually did about 1/3 of the distance. - Kevin.
How often should bearings be done...
After the fact I found out that the 7-year old trailer had never been surviced other than filling the bearing buddies before I hauled it away. Now that I have a whole new axle, I need to do better than the previous owner. I have a marina slip on a fresh water lake. I launch in June/July and pull it out in October. I haul the boat at most 1/2 a mile (1 km, eh) to where it sits for the winter. How often should I get the bearings repacked? I don't like to do it myself. There is a tire shop about 30 miles away. Should I do it in the summer when the trailer is empty or in spring or fall when the boat is on the trailer? That sounds like on odd question but some winters I may need to haul it 100 miles to Calgary to have work done. I did this last winter when I had stern rail seats, roller furling, etc installed. I can't actually think of more reasons to have it in the shop again but you never know...
After the fact I found out that the 7-year old trailer had never been surviced other than filling the bearing buddies before I hauled it away. Now that I have a whole new axle, I need to do better than the previous owner. I have a marina slip on a fresh water lake. I launch in June/July and pull it out in October. I haul the boat at most 1/2 a mile (1 km, eh) to where it sits for the winter. How often should I get the bearings repacked? I don't like to do it myself. There is a tire shop about 30 miles away. Should I do it in the summer when the trailer is empty or in spring or fall when the boat is on the trailer? That sounds like on odd question but some winters I may need to haul it 100 miles to Calgary to have work done. I did this last winter when I had stern rail seats, roller furling, etc installed. I can't actually think of more reasons to have it in the shop again but you never know...
Rick: Repack bearings annually
Rick: My insurance company recommends inspecting and repacking wheel bearings annually. It is easier to have this done, or do it yourself, when the boat is off the trailer. - Kevin.
Rick: My insurance company recommends inspecting and repacking wheel bearings annually. It is easier to have this done, or do it yourself, when the boat is off the trailer. - Kevin.
7600 miles - with a H260
My wife and I just got back from a 7600 mile cross country in July from Phoenix to Kentucky Lake to Great Peconic Bay Long Island, NY to Grand Traverse Bay Michigan, to Lake of the Ozarks and home in six weeks trailering our H260. Most of the time we drove at 75 mph and got about 10 mpg. We have four-wheel steering and it is great for cross winds (and passing semi-trucks). In New Mexico and Texas we had 40 mph gusty cross winds and the rear weel steering computer did all the correcting. Had no problems with bearings until a seal started to leak, as which time I had to add a little grease each 800 miles. Other than an obvious seal leak there should be no reason to add grease. I replaced the grease before we departed without repacking as there is a grease fitting in the hub which extrudes grease from between the rear bearing and seal thru the front bearing. When the grease comes out new you know its all replaced. I always checked hub and tire temperates every gas stop. They are usually hot when the temperatures are above 90 but you should be able to hold your hand on them. One time in Ohio, I couldn't hold my hand on the tire so I changed it with the new spare. It also looked a little funny. We had been hitting some real pot hole bumps going thru New York City. In Michigan, Good Year prorated the radial tire as it was having belt separation. I put the new one one so the spare is now the only old one. When I got back I had all three of them balanced and inspected. I also installed new seals and bearings. Thus, we had no trouble on the 900 mile round trip to San Diego for Labor Day Weekend. When I travel I have the rear view mirrors set so I can monitor each tire every few minutes. At night you can see the profile from headlights behind. I've often thought of mounting two small lights on the trailer in front of the tires. In Ohio, the bad tire started showing something was wrong to me in the rear view mirror. Other than that the trip was perfect! Nils Anderson
My wife and I just got back from a 7600 mile cross country in July from Phoenix to Kentucky Lake to Great Peconic Bay Long Island, NY to Grand Traverse Bay Michigan, to Lake of the Ozarks and home in six weeks trailering our H260. Most of the time we drove at 75 mph and got about 10 mpg. We have four-wheel steering and it is great for cross winds (and passing semi-trucks). In New Mexico and Texas we had 40 mph gusty cross winds and the rear weel steering computer did all the correcting. Had no problems with bearings until a seal started to leak, as which time I had to add a little grease each 800 miles. Other than an obvious seal leak there should be no reason to add grease. I replaced the grease before we departed without repacking as there is a grease fitting in the hub which extrudes grease from between the rear bearing and seal thru the front bearing. When the grease comes out new you know its all replaced. I always checked hub and tire temperates every gas stop. They are usually hot when the temperatures are above 90 but you should be able to hold your hand on them. One time in Ohio, I couldn't hold my hand on the tire so I changed it with the new spare. It also looked a little funny. We had been hitting some real pot hole bumps going thru New York City. In Michigan, Good Year prorated the radial tire as it was having belt separation. I put the new one one so the spare is now the only old one. When I got back I had all three of them balanced and inspected. I also installed new seals and bearings. Thus, we had no trouble on the 900 mile round trip to San Diego for Labor Day Weekend. When I travel I have the rear view mirrors set so I can monitor each tire every few minutes. At night you can see the profile from headlights behind. I've often thought of mounting two small lights on the trailer in front of the tires. In Ohio, the bad tire started showing something was wrong to me in the rear view mirror. Other than that the trip was perfect! Nils Anderson
Trailering a H26
I figure I've pulled my H26 about 30,000 miles. I live in Southern Arizona where there is no water so I have to go quite a distance to sail. The closest lake to me is at least 300 miles away. My sailing trips are always at least two weeks in duration. I've sailed in all the big lakes in Arizona and New Mexico. Been to Utah and Nebraska. Launched off Calif. coast and sailed around Catalina. Been to San Carlos, Mexico several times. I finally wrecked my boat on a highway in Mexico this past May where the roads are narrow and there is no shoulder (the road drops off at the white line). I was traveling about 60 when the trailer tires drifted over the edge and when they came back on the road, all hell broke loose! I ended up aimed back the way I had just come from, off the side of the road, with my trailer on its side and my boat resting on its bottom, having rolled 360. Boat/US totaled it out and I replaced it with another H26 that I bought from Marcel Ralbovsky in Las Vegas. My advice is -- never get over confident while towing a boat, no matter how far you've pulled it. Don't go fast. Leave yourself a good safety margin. (I was doing under the speed limit when I wrecked my boat but I won't be driving that fast in Mexico again!) When those big suckers get away from you, there's not much you can do but pray -- and you don't have much time to do that. I'll be towing my new (to me) H26 again, but I'll just be more aware of how quick things can go wrong and give myself a lot more safety argin. P.S. Having those trailer tires, wheels and brakes in top notch shape is critically important. Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
I figure I've pulled my H26 about 30,000 miles. I live in Southern Arizona where there is no water so I have to go quite a distance to sail. The closest lake to me is at least 300 miles away. My sailing trips are always at least two weeks in duration. I've sailed in all the big lakes in Arizona and New Mexico. Been to Utah and Nebraska. Launched off Calif. coast and sailed around Catalina. Been to San Carlos, Mexico several times. I finally wrecked my boat on a highway in Mexico this past May where the roads are narrow and there is no shoulder (the road drops off at the white line). I was traveling about 60 when the trailer tires drifted over the edge and when they came back on the road, all hell broke loose! I ended up aimed back the way I had just come from, off the side of the road, with my trailer on its side and my boat resting on its bottom, having rolled 360. Boat/US totaled it out and I replaced it with another H26 that I bought from Marcel Ralbovsky in Las Vegas. My advice is -- never get over confident while towing a boat, no matter how far you've pulled it. Don't go fast. Leave yourself a good safety margin. (I was doing under the speed limit when I wrecked my boat but I won't be driving that fast in Mexico again!) When those big suckers get away from you, there's not much you can do but pray -- and you don't have much time to do that. I'll be towing my new (to me) H26 again, but I'll just be more aware of how quick things can go wrong and give myself a lot more safety argin. P.S. Having those trailer tires, wheels and brakes in top notch shape is critically important. Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
Nils...
Nils, Couple of things... first, how did you like Grand Traverse Bay? I'm originally from there and loved sailing around the Traverse City area and up in the Charlevoix area. If you didn't get up to Charlevoix, put it on your list of places to go next time. (And feel free to email if you want more info on that area - I'm in the owner's directory) On the trailering - do you use sway bars on the boat? When I took my boat from the dealer I was doing under 45-50 the whole way (except for the rush hour traffic areas) but occasionally the boat would start doing this little 'sway' dance, causing me to take up parts of a couple of lanes here and there. I can't fathom that happening at 75 mph! I've got a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the heavy duty tow package (10,000 lbs GVW limit so I was well under it's capacity) - tires were checked on everything before I took off, etc. Maybe it's a matter of experience, but I've just never bounced and swished and swayed around like that pulling anything else. Any thoughts? Dave
Nils, Couple of things... first, how did you like Grand Traverse Bay? I'm originally from there and loved sailing around the Traverse City area and up in the Charlevoix area. If you didn't get up to Charlevoix, put it on your list of places to go next time. (And feel free to email if you want more info on that area - I'm in the owner's directory) On the trailering - do you use sway bars on the boat? When I took my boat from the dealer I was doing under 45-50 the whole way (except for the rush hour traffic areas) but occasionally the boat would start doing this little 'sway' dance, causing me to take up parts of a couple of lanes here and there. I can't fathom that happening at 75 mph!
I've got a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the heavy duty tow package (10,000 lbs GVW limit so I was well under it's capacity) - tires were checked on everything before I took off, etc. Maybe it's a matter of experience, but I've just never bounced and swished and swayed around like that pulling anything else. Any thoughts? DaveSpeed and Fishtailing
First of all, hats off to Nils and Jim on their long distance trailering. You guys have me beat! That swaying is called fishtailing. To a limit, it can be reduced by increasing weight on the hitch. That limit is 10-15% of trailer and load weight. My wife felt comfortable trailering our Hunter23 up to 60 mph. I went up to 65 mph. At 70 mph the trailer began to fishtail. Coming down those mountain passes I had to pay more attention to speed control than Michelle because I was driving closer to 70 mph. Our towing vehicle was a 3.8 liter V-6 front-wheeldrive 1995 Windstar with a towing capacity of 3,500 lbs hauling 3,100 lbs. With 2,750 rpm we were able to maintain 40 mph going up the passes. This is conservative driving because the tachometer reads to 7,000 rpm without any redline. We were careful to lockout overdrive on hilly terrain as indicated in the Windstar manual. We changed the oil at the half-way point in Billings, Montana. Never needed to add oil or coolant. In Moses Lake, Washington we replenshed 6 oz of transaxle fluid (capacity is 12 quarts). And yes, we have a heavy duty towing package with radiator coolers for both oil and transaxle fluid. Temperature gauge remained pegged in low normal, even hill climbing in 108 degree temperatures at 3,000 ft elevation. By the way, the wheel bearing grease that we replaced daily was lost through the bearing buddy inspection port, not the front or rear axle seals, as a result of spring tension on the bearing buddy seal and mileage. By the way Nils, what type of axles do you have on your H260 trailer? I don't believe the GM spindles on our Magic Tilt can distribute grease between the the seals the way you describe. But then the outer seal permits grease to be drawn in by vacuum. Can you or anyone else clarify this? - Kevin.
First of all, hats off to Nils and Jim on their long distance trailering. You guys have me beat! That swaying is called fishtailing. To a limit, it can be reduced by increasing weight on the hitch. That limit is 10-15% of trailer and load weight. My wife felt comfortable trailering our Hunter23 up to 60 mph. I went up to 65 mph. At 70 mph the trailer began to fishtail. Coming down those mountain passes I had to pay more attention to speed control than Michelle because I was driving closer to 70 mph. Our towing vehicle was a 3.8 liter V-6 front-wheeldrive 1995 Windstar with a towing capacity of 3,500 lbs hauling 3,100 lbs. With 2,750 rpm we were able to maintain 40 mph going up the passes. This is conservative driving because the tachometer reads to 7,000 rpm without any redline. We were careful to lockout overdrive on hilly terrain as indicated in the Windstar manual. We changed the oil at the half-way point in Billings, Montana. Never needed to add oil or coolant. In Moses Lake, Washington we replenshed 6 oz of transaxle fluid (capacity is 12 quarts). And yes, we have a heavy duty towing package with radiator coolers for both oil and transaxle fluid. Temperature gauge remained pegged in low normal, even hill climbing in 108 degree temperatures at 3,000 ft elevation. By the way, the wheel bearing grease that we replaced daily was lost through the bearing buddy inspection port, not the front or rear axle seals, as a result of spring tension on the bearing buddy seal and mileage. By the way Nils, what type of axles do you have on your H260 trailer? I don't believe the GM spindles on our Magic Tilt can distribute grease between the the seals the way you describe. But then the outer seal permits grease to be drawn in by vacuum. Can you or anyone else clarify this? - Kevin.
Nils
Nils are those axles original? Champion Tralers in Louisiana have a similar hub on their axles that allows the grease to be completely replaced just by pumping new grease in and pushing out the old. I posted on an old posting that I am looking at converting my single axle 23.5 trailer to a tandem this winter. Rick Webb has also done this.
Nils are those axles original? Champion Tralers in Louisiana have a similar hub on their axles that allows the grease to be completely replaced just by pumping new grease in and pushing out the old. I posted on an old posting that I am looking at converting my single axle 23.5 trailer to a tandem this winter. Rick Webb has also done this.
Dave & Jonathan
Dave, we loved Traverse City. My wife grew up there. We stayed with her brother and wife who have a house at the water in Northport; we have driven thru Charlevoix-classy! The reason we can trailer at 75-80 mph and have no-sway is that I designed and built the trailer for this. I wouldn’t pull a carriage spring factory trailer faster than 55-60 mph. The first way to reduce trailer sway is to have more mass with less moment arm in front of the axle than mass/moment arm to the rear. You can measure this with tongue weight. The minimum is 10 percent of the weight. To further reduce sway at higher speed and passing semi-trucks, you have to have 15 percent. Two other factors are anti-sway axle and lower center of gravity. I have my batteries and water tank forward. Our trailer and loaded boat I weighed, at a truck stop, 4800 pounds on the axle, and have 600 pounds at the tongue. I designed my trailer with the H260 keel just 6 inches above the pavement. Also, the suspension is split rubber torsion arms built into the trailer frame. This allows for no sideways movement (unlike carriage springs) and independent movement (unlike a full width solid axle) As a result I have no sway on mountain curves at 75-80 mph; in fact it feels like you are on railroad tracks. With the boat substantially lower and closer (three feet) to the rear of the vehicle, it rides in the slipstream resulting in less power required to pull it. Also, having only one axle, it has less rolling resistance and is self-aligning compared with a tandem axle. Being lower also helps in launching. Since the water line is only 32 inches above the pavement, when the water’s edge is at the bumper, the boat, being only 3 feet back, floats off. I now see a few more additions to this thread. Jonathan, the 7600 pound 6 lug axle I incorporated into my trailer is made my Goodyear and UCF America called "Flexiride" with stainless steel disk brakes that make you forget you have a trailer behind you when you stop. I would not convert your trailer to a dual axle. There should be no reason to add wheels unless you sink-in when driving on soft sand. You are asking for twice the problems. Nils Anderson H260 "Godspeed"
Dave, we loved Traverse City. My wife grew up there. We stayed with her brother and wife who have a house at the water in Northport; we have driven thru Charlevoix-classy! The reason we can trailer at 75-80 mph and have no-sway is that I designed and built the trailer for this. I wouldn’t pull a carriage spring factory trailer faster than 55-60 mph. The first way to reduce trailer sway is to have more mass with less moment arm in front of the axle than mass/moment arm to the rear. You can measure this with tongue weight. The minimum is 10 percent of the weight. To further reduce sway at higher speed and passing semi-trucks, you have to have 15 percent. Two other factors are anti-sway axle and lower center of gravity. I have my batteries and water tank forward. Our trailer and loaded boat I weighed, at a truck stop, 4800 pounds on the axle, and have 600 pounds at the tongue. I designed my trailer with the H260 keel just 6 inches above the pavement. Also, the suspension is split rubber torsion arms built into the trailer frame. This allows for no sideways movement (unlike carriage springs) and independent movement (unlike a full width solid axle) As a result I have no sway on mountain curves at 75-80 mph; in fact it feels like you are on railroad tracks. With the boat substantially lower and closer (three feet) to the rear of the vehicle, it rides in the slipstream resulting in less power required to pull it. Also, having only one axle, it has less rolling resistance and is self-aligning compared with a tandem axle. Being lower also helps in launching. Since the water line is only 32 inches above the pavement, when the water’s edge is at the bumper, the boat, being only 3 feet back, floats off. I now see a few more additions to this thread. Jonathan, the 7600 pound 6 lug axle I incorporated into my trailer is made my Goodyear and UCF America called "Flexiride" with stainless steel disk brakes that make you forget you have a trailer behind you when you stop. I would not convert your trailer to a dual axle. There should be no reason to add wheels unless you sink-in when driving on soft sand. You are asking for twice the problems. Nils Anderson H260 "Godspeed"
Okay... but how?
Alright guys, you're talking to a simpleton on trailering (previous experience was a 14' jet boat that followed me around like a puppy. ) I noticed on my factory trailer that there is a little 'wheel gauge' on the hitch - is that how I increase/decrease the tongue weight, or is it something else? Since I'll only have to move it twice more (this Fall, then back again in the Spring for perm storage at the marina) I may just go during Minneapolis rush hour to avoid the whole issue. ;-) Wait, I want to go to the Apostles one day too... shoot, I better figure this out. Nils - if you ever get a chance, take the boat up to Lake Charlevoix -- beautiful sailing there and a nice 'entry' into Big Lake Michigan to boot. But hey, Traverse City is nice too (I grew up there also.) Thanks guys - guys like you, this site and these forums are the primary reason I bought a Hunter! Dave
Alright guys, you're talking to a simpleton on trailering (previous experience was a 14' jet boat that followed me around like a puppy.
) I noticed on my factory trailer that there is a little 'wheel gauge' on the hitch - is that how I increase/decrease the tongue weight, or is it something else? Since I'll only have to move it twice more (this Fall, then back again in the Spring for perm storage at the marina) I may just go during Minneapolis rush hour to avoid the whole issue. ;-) Wait, I want to go to the Apostles one day too... shoot, I better figure this out. Nils - if you ever get a chance, take the boat up to Lake Charlevoix -- beautiful sailing there and a nice 'entry' into Big Lake Michigan to boot. But hey, Traverse City is nice too (I grew up there also.) Thanks guys - guys like you, this site and these forums are the primary reason I bought a Hunter! DaveTrailer Talk
During my research for a travel trailer this year, I became convinced that the Hensley Arrow equalizeer hitch was the best solution for towing a rig long distances. The H260 is under 5000 lbs but I still think some sort of equalizer hitch is probably necessary if you intend to tow long distances. I'll be towing from Traverse City MI to Ft. Myers this winter so a equalizer hitch is on my Christmas list. The Hensley Arrow may be overkill (over $3,000), but does anyone have experience with an equalizer hitch on a boat trailer?. George Living the dream on Grand Traverse Bay
During my research for a travel trailer this year, I became convinced that the Hensley Arrow equalizeer hitch was the best solution for towing a rig long distances. The H260 is under 5000 lbs but I still think some sort of equalizer hitch is probably necessary if you intend to tow long distances. I'll be towing from Traverse City MI to Ft. Myers this winter so a equalizer hitch is on my Christmas list. The Hensley Arrow may be overkill (over $3,000), but does anyone have experience with an equalizer hitch on a boat trailer?. George Living the dream on Grand Traverse Bay
Equalizers
Make sure they work with your surge brakes. Most are designed for trailers with electric brakes.
Make sure they work with your surge brakes. Most are designed for trailers with electric brakes.
Tongue Weight
Dave, you can change tongue weight by shifting weight inside the boat or sliding the boat by moving the bow stop. Use a bathroom scale on a 2x4 or 4x4 beam to measure the weight. Put the tongue half way, support one end on a concrete block and rest the scale on another each the same distance from the hitch. Double the scale reading. 250 reading=500 pounds. We'll have to do Charlevoix next summer. Rick is right about surge brakes. Instead of an equalizer, I installed air-ride from Air Lift Company on my Explorer that worked real well by levelling the rear end with air pressure. I bought a set for my Sierra (about $200.00) but haven't had time to install them yet. The advantage is, it increases the spring load by up to 2000 pounds if you need to carry a lot of stuff or add a Truck Camper.
Dave, you can change tongue weight by shifting weight inside the boat or sliding the boat by moving the bow stop. Use a bathroom scale on a 2x4 or 4x4 beam to measure the weight. Put the tongue half way, support one end on a concrete block and rest the scale on another each the same distance from the hitch. Double the scale reading. 250 reading=500 pounds. We'll have to do Charlevoix next summer. Rick is right about surge brakes. Instead of an equalizer, I installed air-ride from Air Lift Company on my Explorer that worked real well by levelling the rear end with air pressure. I bought a set for my Sierra (about $200.00) but haven't had time to install them yet. The advantage is, it increases the spring load by up to 2000 pounds if you need to carry a lot of stuff or add a Truck Camper.
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