How do you rig your boom vang?

[stvnm]

Hi fellows,
Does anyone have pics or a reference on the correct/best way to rig the boom vang on a H23? I am not to thrilled on my set up and looking for ways to improve.

Thanks,
Steven

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Steven;
The 23 had a boom vang that was standard at the time of sale or part of the package from Hunter. It was prepackaged from Schaffer I believe. It was attached to the mast pin via a connector that the mast pin was inserted into it which sometimes was difficult. That pin is no longer available but there is a curved tang with holes which is much better that is offered by this site store. There was an eyestrap on the bottom of the boom as the other attachment point. I think it could slide on the boom but was either screwed or pop riveted in place. It would have helped to see what you have. You may want to inquire about boom kickers as there are several out there which some folks have added.

 

[stvnm]

Hi Dave, thanks for the insight.
It so happens that i have the vang in my garage and here are a couple of pics - boom bail at the boom and the boom vang. Right now I rig it with the larger D shackle at the mast and the bitter end coming out below. Any better idea?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Twist shackles for starters would help but see if you can find shackles with smaller pins that can go thru the eyelets. If you want to invest further, there are a selection of quick release shackles you can look at. I would leave the boom vang attached to the boom when storing away

 

[stvnm]

Dave, i tried the twist shackles but did not find any advantage in having the boom vang at 90 degrees. What I am trying to determine here is if, given the boom vang as it is, there's is a better way to rig it. To be precise, which side goes to boom and which to the mast and if the bitter end is better up or down.
Any opinions?
Thanks,
Steven

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

By adding a twist shackle at the bottom or top, you will have a straight lines in the boom vang. You could add a quick release style shackle to attach quickly but you will have to look. Anyone for suggestions other than a rigid style boom vang.

 

[isaksp00]

I rig mine with the end that has the "jam cleat" wedge on the boom. No real reason, and I suspect it really doesn't matter. I find it a bit easier to be able to get to the adjustment end when it is up on the boom, as you can reach it from the companionway. I always have trouble sliding the hinge pin through the mast step while holding the mast foot down, so I don't try to use the bracket. I tied a loop in thin line (probably 1/8 in), around the mast hinge pin, and put the s-hook through that (your photo shows a shackle, which would obviously also work).

 

[HukilauMike]

Bitter end on the "bottom", not attached to the boom, definitely. While it may be easier to grab the bitter end when it's hanging down, there is no question that you have much more leverage and can use your legs when pulling up on the line than pulling down. This does require you to go on deck to adjust the vang, but I think that is what is necessary to make the vang effective. I've tried it both ways, and that's what I've found on my Oday 23. YMMV.

BTW, I agree with Dave on the twist shackles; I bought a couple of second hand snap shackles for either end of my vang, and it makes it much easier to stand off to the side while hauling on the line.

 

[Joe]

Since you have that type of lightweight vang, and can't move the built in cleat.... I would rig it with the control line end at the mast. That means it is difficult to cleat the line because you must press down and there is no leverage.... So.... Mount an open cam or clam cleat somewhere on the house nearer the cockpit that will give you a decent line to the mast base... doesn't have to be perfect... Then use that to control the vang, rather than messing with the stupid original set up.... The issue is always not being able to set the cleat .. releasing is easy....

In other words, add a more convenient cleat..... if you have to extend the line... add apiece to the existing one... since the new cleat will be open, rather than having a captive fairlead, the knot won't interfere.