How do you remove a water heater from a 1999 Catalina 28’ MKII?

[breton]

I am close to buying a this boat but the guy who owned it maybe didn’t winterize it properly and when I run the water it just pours into the bildge. I had about 8 gallons of pink stuff in the bildge. Anyhow I will try to disconnect the hot water line at the “T” near the water pump and only run cold water. I think that will enable me to get the boat in the ocean and still have cold wter. But later I will need to remove the water tank. Where’s the best place to bypass the water heater heat exchanger lines? How hard is it to get the old water heater out?
Thanks, Steve

 

[Tally Ho]

I don’t have your boat, but a few thoughts…

On the Hunter 280 I used to own, I would bypass the water heater when winterizing the boat by removing the inlet and outlet water lines and connecting them (that boat had the gray plastic water lines with compression fittings). So a short plastic nipple of the same threads made it easy to connect t the hoses. If you can do this, you can have cold water at least and bypass the WH.

As for the AF lines running to the WH, you could probably do something similar, but be aware that getting air in the line can cause some issues. The alternative may be to find them on the engine and remove them there and plug the inlet and outlets.

I can’t comment on how hard to get the WH out of the boat.


Greg

 

[breton]

Thanks. I think I am good. The water heater is accessed by removing a panel to the rear of the stearn bunk. There was a hose that must have been pushed off when the tank froze. Good thing that might have saved the tank.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

After you bypass the heater you should also verify there aren’t other leaks. Most likely culprits for freeze damage are rigid fittings such as strainers and valves, faucets, tank-to-hose fittings, expansion tank, pumps etc. Anything that might have contained trapped water. Some might be difficult to access/replace. Soft vinyl water lines or PEX are fairly freeze tolerant, but the rigid plastic or metal components aren’t.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

After you bypass the heater you should also verify there aren’t other leaks. Most likely culprits for freeze damage are rigid fittings such as strainers and valves, faucets, tank-to-hose fittings, expansion tank, pumps etc. Anything that might have contained trapped water. Some might be difficult to access/replace. Soft vinyl water lines or PEX are fairly freeze tolerant, but the rigid plastic or metal components aren’t.

Not sure how far you can go with that pre-purchase. I suggest a holdback $ amount in your purchase agreement or some other way to make sure the seller provides an allowance for the cost of fixing these things.
I’d also be concerned that perhaps the engine wasn’t properly winterized too! A cracked block would be a major $$ issue. A thorough sea trial should also be stipulated, allowing you to run the engine to full operating temps and get a mechanic‘s inspection.

 

[Banooma]

Agree with the suggestion of a sea trial, plus a professional survey. Hopefully the PO took care of the engine. Sometimes owners hire the marina staff to do the engine winterizing while handling water systems themselves. From what I recall the water heater is behind the bulkhead in the aft berth. I had a '99 C28 mkii up to a few years ago. It's a breeze to handle, a wonderful boat all around and very spacious for its size. I hope it works out for you!