The largest openings I've needed to make were done with a 1/2" drill bit. Putting in a pumpable 5 gal porta-pottie. Plan on routing the hoses between the small storage area, aft of the head, and the wet locker. The pump-out fitting would go between the winch and life line. The vent would go through the vertical part of the deck aft of the port. I was going to use a circular hole saw (drill attachment) like the kind used to drill large circular openings in wood doors. Would that work well? I've thought about routing the sanitation hoses through the wet locker but longer run, would use up valuable storage space and the deck fittings would essentially be in the cockpit. Any thoughts appreciated. alan P.S. I have a '94 26
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dremel
A dremel tool works very well. It has a higher RPM than a normal drill and is easily controlled. I first used one on fiberglass tub repairs and then on my boat. Works like a champ. Michael
A dremel tool works very well. It has a higher RPM than a normal drill and is easily controlled. I first used one on fiberglass tub repairs and then on my boat. Works like a champ. Michael
cutting fiberglass
I have not used it yet but I have a drill bit that I got from a plumber, he uses them to drill holes in tubs showers etc, this thing is tapered and seemed to work great for him made a real smooth hole, since it is tapered you just go as far as you need to get the size you want , not sure what it is called, good luck Mike
I have not used it yet but I have a drill bit that I got from a plumber, he uses them to drill holes in tubs showers etc, this thing is tapered and seemed to work great for him made a real smooth hole, since it is tapered you just go as far as you need to get the size you want , not sure what it is called, good luck Mike
drilling fiberglass
i think what mike is talking about is called a unibit. expensive for a good one, ($40.00-$50.00), but they drill nice clean holes in graduated sizes. handy as pockets on a shirt...i have 2 of them. just be sure that when you punch-through from the size you need you back-off quickly because the next size up will begin cutting immediately. (they only work for about 1/4" thicknesses). for the through hull fitting a core saw works fine too. i've used both on fiberglass. a regular drill bit works but will sometimes try to splinter the glass. if you must use one, use high speed, hold the drill tightly, and go slow. you don't want the bit to "snag" as goes through.
i think what mike is talking about is called a unibit. expensive for a good one, ($40.00-$50.00), but they drill nice clean holes in graduated sizes. handy as pockets on a shirt...i have 2 of them. just be sure that when you punch-through from the size you need you back-off quickly because the next size up will begin cutting immediately. (they only work for about 1/4" thicknesses). for the through hull fitting a core saw works fine too. i've used both on fiberglass. a regular drill bit works but will sometimes try to splinter the glass. if you must use one, use high speed, hold the drill tightly, and go slow. you don't want the bit to "snag" as goes through.
Run drill backwards
When I drilled holes for the snaps for my companionway cover, I was told to run the drill backwards to avoid chipping. Worked great. ...RickM...
When I drilled holes for the snaps for my companionway cover, I was told to run the drill backwards to avoid chipping. Worked great. ...RickM...
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