How do you lube the rudder bearings?

[John Rushing]

Has anyone out there figured out how to lube the rudder bearings without dropping the rudder? My quadrent and chain are not the problem. I think the bearings need a little grease.

I can't seem to find an access point on the rudder post where this would be done.

Anyone tackled this problem?

Thanks,

John

 

[Bill Roosa]

Don't think you need to lube it. Plastic bearings, just replace after 20 years

 

[ice breaker]

Don't think you need to lube it. Plastic bearings, just replace after 20 years

+1

 

[Terry Cox]

Rudder Bearings

Hi John, our model is different, but Hunter likely used the same bearing material for your model. Contact Hunter Marine Customer Service for clarification.

Don Martin with Hunter Marine Customer Service provided me with the following information about our 1991 P42. I've edited his response a bit for clarity:

The rudder bearings are sleeves that are made from UHMW material. The sleeves do not require any lubricate. There is no adjustment on these bearings. If they develop too much side-to-side play then the bearings would need to be replaced. Anything over 1/8th inch play would be considered outside of tolerance and the bearing would need to be replaced.

In another e-mail to Don I asked him whether it was a matter of dropping the rudder and popping the old bearing out or did it require special tools? He said that after the rudder is removed you should be able to remove the bearings by driving the top bearing out and from the underside of the boat you should be able to insert something like a 1 x 2 up into the rudder tube and there should be a ridge at the bottom of the top bearing, you should be able to get the 1 x 2 on this ridge and drive the bearing up. This would be reverse for the bottom bearing.

Grab the bottom of the rudder and push/pull side-to-side to determine any play.

I've never had the need to try this, but a marine surveyor suggested to cut a piece of teflon sheet to size that will fit around the rudder shaft at the bearing. Drop the rudder just enough to insert this teflon shim. This should reduce the play and extend the life of the bearing.

 

[John Rushing]

Thanks

Thanks to everyone for the quick response. I will look into it.

J

Hi John, our model is different, but Hunter likely used the same bearing material for your model. Contact Hunter Marine Customer Service for clarification.

Don Martin with Hunter Marine Customer Service provided me with the following information about our 1991 P42. I've edited his response a bit for clarity:

The rudder bearings are sleeves that are made from UHMW material. The sleeves do not require any lubricate. There is no adjustment on these bearings. If they develop too much side-to-side play then the bearings would need to be replaced. Anything over 1/8th inch play would be considered outside of tolerance and the bearing would need to be replaced.

In another e-mail to Don I asked him whether it was a matter of dropping the rudder and popping the old bearing out or did it require special tools? He said that after the rudder is removed you should be able to remove the bearings by driving the top bearing out and from the underside of the boat you should be able to insert something like a 1 x 2 up into the rudder tube and there should be a ridge at the bottom of the top bearing, you should be able to get the 1 x 2 on this ridge and drive the bearing up. This would be reverse for the bottom bearing.

Grab the bottom of the rudder and push/pull side-to-side to determine any play.

I've never had the need to try this, but a marine surveyor suggested to cut a piece of teflon sheet to size that will fit around the rudder shaft at the bearing. Drop the rudder just enough to insert this teflon shim. This should reduce the play and extend the life of the bearing.

 

[Hunter legend collabsa]

Thanks to everyone for the quick response. I will look into it. J

Just done this job myself. I bought the boat and the previous owner had had the new bearings machined ready. Bearings are ether glued with 5200 or sikaflex ad the lower outer bearing bonded. The stainless bearing at the lower around the rudder shaft was bonded using some sort of epoxy packing because the shaft is not round. I had a problem with the lower stainless bearing so I had to drop the rudder back into my hole in the ground. I'm now having 4 sets of m10 holes drilled and tapped so I can use them as jacking screws to align the stainless bearing to its plastic outer and I can then replace the packing that's cracked.

Should be doing this in the next week.

Will let you know how it goes and attach some pics if anyone is interested.

Matt

The upper bearing was no problem