I have read Get Rid of Boat Odors twice and understand the concept of keeping waste out of all hoses to prevent blockage and permeation. I see how to do this from head to tank through proper hose installation and sufficient pumping. Is there a way to shut off the discharge at the tank so nothing is in hose from tank to Y valve between pumpouts? Your book has revealed that I have destroyed my system by blindly following old wives tales. Thanks for the help!
How do you keep waste out of tank discharge hose?
- Thread starter seafever
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So you are saying that the hose to the Y-valve comes off of the bottom of the tank? Is that true of all tanks that are plumbed for overboard discharge? My pumpout hose is from the top so I would never have your problem. The Y-valve and overboard pump have been removed because it was and is again a Great Lakes boat. If I wanted to replumb for eventual offshore overboard dumping would I need a bottom connected discharge? Peggy?
The boat came with discharge out the end that went to a T. From the T, one way goes down and out through hull and the other goes up to pump out on deck. I have removed everything and am buying all new hoses, tank etc. As I hope to get to ocean someday, I would like to keep all options open. How does your pumpout hose from the top even work? Does your tank have special tube that goes through top and picks up at the bottom?
When I installed a new holding tank and plumbing system on my boat, I installed a gate valve right at the point of discharge at the bottom edge of the tank. When I pump out, I open this gate valve for fluid to flow, at completeion of pump out I send back some fresh water to rinse line, shake it so all is drained,shut the valve and good to go.
My system has worked very nicely as far as permiation and smells. Hope this helps.
My system has worked very nicely as far as permiation and smells. Hope this helps.
That does help. I have missed the gate valve option in my reading. But I have not really looked into this whole issue until now.
Thanks a lot!
Thanks a lot!
Use short length of PVC
I know that it is not recommended to use PVC rigid pipe on boats because of the flexing of the hull that might lead to cracking. :naughty: However, I had the same problem on my Catalina 36 where the pump out hose connected to an outlet on the lowest side of the holding tank. That hose remained full of waste at all times. I’m on a lake and was required to redo the plumbing to make it impossible to dump overboard. So as part of my project I installed elbows and lengths of PVC to bring the beginning of the sanitary pump out hose to an elevation above the top of the tank. Now I only have waste in this section when I’m actually pumping out or sometimes on certain angles of heel. Then it drains back into the tank when I change tacks. It certainly cured the problems of permeated hose.I made sure that I braced and anchored the PVC sections to lessen any flexing and I believe it will not be a problem. :dance:
I know that it is not recommended to use PVC rigid pipe on boats because of the flexing of the hull that might lead to cracking. :naughty: However, I had the same problem on my Catalina 36 where the pump out hose connected to an outlet on the lowest side of the holding tank. That hose remained full of waste at all times. I’m on a lake and was required to redo the plumbing to make it impossible to dump overboard. So as part of my project I installed elbows and lengths of PVC to bring the beginning of the sanitary pump out hose to an elevation above the top of the tank. Now I only have waste in this section when I’m actually pumping out or sometimes on certain angles of heel. Then it drains back into the tank when I change tacks. It certainly cured the problems of permeated hose.I made sure that I braced and anchored the PVC sections to lessen any flexing and I believe it will not be a problem. :dance:
Seafever, yes, my tank does have the discharge hose at the top. It is connected to a stand pipe that goes to within 3/8" of the bottom. So I do always have something in the bottom. I guess my question for Peggy is: will an overboard pump pull from the bottom and out through a Y-valve?
Waste tank
Hi Ed, our 1991 P42 has two electric heads that draw raw water for flushing into one holding tank. The power panel has one switch for both heads and a macerator switch for the overboard macerator pump. Each head has a through hull for raw water flushing. The head uses a combo pump and macerator motor to bring raw water in for flushing and a macerator for chewing up the material on its way to the holding tank during the flushing operation.
Each head has an electrically operated anti siphon solenoid valve; aft is located in the engine compartment and forward is located inside a small compartment forward of the main cabin cabinets starboard side. These help to prevent water from siphoning into the bowl after flushing since both the heads and holding tank are below the waterline.
The holding tank on our boat is located beneath the main cabin sole starboard side by the setee. The through hull seacock for the macerator pump is located on the forward side of the holding tank. A small sole compartment hatch on the starboard side next to the compression post is where we have two seacocks; one for the forward cabin head raw water intake and the other for the holding tank macerator pump. Our macerator pump draws waste from the tank through a shared draw tube with the deck pump out fitting via a wye fitting arrangement.
When it's time for use I first open the through hull, turn on the head switch and activate the flush button to bring in some raw water to the bowl. When ready I hold the flush button down for at least five full seconds to allow enough time for the bowl contents to reach the holding tank. I return everything to their normal position when done.
If our tank is close to full, there is no pump out facility nearby and we're in a legal place to dump I will open the macerator pump through hull and activate the macerator switch until the tank is empty. The pump sound will change to a slightly higher but distinctive pitch at that point. Close all through hulls when done. Raw water will slowly seep back into the holding tank if left open. This arrangement clears waste from the macerator pump hoses, but there remains a small amount of waste in the tank since the draw tube does not extend to the bottom.
Terry Cox
Hi Ed, our 1991 P42 has two electric heads that draw raw water for flushing into one holding tank. The power panel has one switch for both heads and a macerator switch for the overboard macerator pump. Each head has a through hull for raw water flushing. The head uses a combo pump and macerator motor to bring raw water in for flushing and a macerator for chewing up the material on its way to the holding tank during the flushing operation.
Each head has an electrically operated anti siphon solenoid valve; aft is located in the engine compartment and forward is located inside a small compartment forward of the main cabin cabinets starboard side. These help to prevent water from siphoning into the bowl after flushing since both the heads and holding tank are below the waterline.
The holding tank on our boat is located beneath the main cabin sole starboard side by the setee. The through hull seacock for the macerator pump is located on the forward side of the holding tank. A small sole compartment hatch on the starboard side next to the compression post is where we have two seacocks; one for the forward cabin head raw water intake and the other for the holding tank macerator pump. Our macerator pump draws waste from the tank through a shared draw tube with the deck pump out fitting via a wye fitting arrangement.
When it's time for use I first open the through hull, turn on the head switch and activate the flush button to bring in some raw water to the bowl. When ready I hold the flush button down for at least five full seconds to allow enough time for the bowl contents to reach the holding tank. I return everything to their normal position when done.
If our tank is close to full, there is no pump out facility nearby and we're in a legal place to dump I will open the macerator pump through hull and activate the macerator switch until the tank is empty. The pump sound will change to a slightly higher but distinctive pitch at that point. Close all through hulls when done. Raw water will slowly seep back into the holding tank if left open. This arrangement clears waste from the macerator pump hoses, but there remains a small amount of waste in the tank since the draw tube does not extend to the bottom.
Terry Cox
The short answer is yes
You asked, " I guess my question for Peggy is: will an overboard pump pull from the bottom and out through a Y-valve?"
Yes. ALL tanks must be sucked out from the bottom.so it doesn't matter where the tank discharge fitting is...if it's on the top, there has to be a pickup tube inside the tank that goes to the bottom. If it's at the bottom there's a hose outside the tank that goes from the discharge fitting at the bottom of the tank to the deck pumpout fitting (whether there's a y-valve in it doesn't matter)...the pumpout hose has to be able to suck the contents out of the tank.
There's only one way to eliminate waste standing in the tank discharge line: put the discharge fitting on the top of the tank with a pickup tue inside the tank. Waste has to rise to the level in the tank in any hose that's connected to a fitting at the bottom of the tank. In some installations it may be possible to use a piece of hard pipe just long enough to go from the discharge fitting to the top of the tank, then switch to hose for the rest of the way to the deck pumpout fitting.
Ed, the pickup tube in your tank could be a lot closer to the bottom than 3/8". It should touch the bottom, then be cut off at about a 25 degree angle.
We can always count on Terry to tell us how to make a watch when we only asked for the time.
You asked, " I guess my question for Peggy is: will an overboard pump pull from the bottom and out through a Y-valve?"
Yes. ALL tanks must be sucked out from the bottom.so it doesn't matter where the tank discharge fitting is...if it's on the top, there has to be a pickup tube inside the tank that goes to the bottom. If it's at the bottom there's a hose outside the tank that goes from the discharge fitting at the bottom of the tank to the deck pumpout fitting (whether there's a y-valve in it doesn't matter)...the pumpout hose has to be able to suck the contents out of the tank.
There's only one way to eliminate waste standing in the tank discharge line: put the discharge fitting on the top of the tank with a pickup tue inside the tank. Waste has to rise to the level in the tank in any hose that's connected to a fitting at the bottom of the tank. In some installations it may be possible to use a piece of hard pipe just long enough to go from the discharge fitting to the top of the tank, then switch to hose for the rest of the way to the deck pumpout fitting.
Ed, the pickup tube in your tank could be a lot closer to the bottom than 3/8". It should touch the bottom, then be cut off at about a 25 degree angle.
We can always count on Terry to tell us how to make a watch when we only asked for the time.
Waste tank
Oh Peggie you're such a charmer. I do hope you and your family had a very nice thanksgiving.
Terry Cox
Oh Peggie you're such a charmer. I do hope you and your family had a very nice thanksgiving.
Terry Cox
Hi Peggy, partying in Little Rock tonight I guess. Good game. But why Little Rock?
So far as my standpipe I never actually saw it. That is what I remember from the Ronco paperwork way back in 2001. A slight angle cut with the tip right on the bottom would make sense. Nine years and not a single problem with my Cricket - Sealand - Ronco setup.
So far as my standpipe I never actually saw it. That is what I remember from the Ronco paperwork way back in 2001. A slight angle cut with the tip right on the bottom would make sense. Nine years and not a single problem with my Cricket - Sealand - Ronco setup.
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