I'm in the process of slapping on yet another coat of varnish ... oops! I mean, deftly applying another application of high gloss finish! Just wondering what you all use on your brightwork. I know folks who use Cetol but I, personally, hate the orange, painted look of it. IMHO, Armada (now known as West Marine WoodPro) looks better - brown & slightly opaque but it looks more like wood to me. I've heard it doesn't last as long as Cetol - by a month or so - but I think the tradeoff would be worth it. Have any of you used a CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) system? It seals the wood before you put on varnish & is supposed to last for years with only an annual reapplication of varnish - a similar maintenance schedule as Cetol. I know a couple people who seem impressed but they haven't had it on that long. Wondering if anyone else has had it on for longer. I'm thinking about using it next time I need to. LaDonna
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Cape Ann Teak
Two coats of Cape Ann Teak and I got 2 whole summers in NJ without re-coating. It looks pretty natural too. Once the teak is prepped, two coats can be applied in an hour or so. BTW, I've seen boats with Cetol and they looked great (didn't notice an orange look), but I heard you need to put several coats to make it last. Roc
Two coats of Cape Ann Teak and I got 2 whole summers in NJ without re-coating. It looks pretty natural too. Once the teak is prepped, two coats can be applied in an hour or so. BTW, I've seen boats with Cetol and they looked great (didn't notice an orange look), but I heard you need to put several coats to make it last. Roc
Cape Ann Teak?
Where do you get it? I've never heard of it - would love to see some pix if you can post them to the owners photo album!!! LaDonna
Where do you get it? I've never heard of it - would love to see some pix if you can post them to the owners photo album!!! LaDonna
smith systems
My 1982 catalina 30 has something called smith systems on the wood. It is a two part process. The first part is a sealer on the wood and can be bought at most marine stores. You can use it then varnish on top and it will last longer. Apparently (according to the smith inventer) almost anything will stick to wood better than varnish. The second part is a special u/v barrier and weather protection. This must be bought direct from the place in richmond, california. I imagine you can mail order it. The guy that owns the place is a bit of a character and will make you read the information and make sure you understand it all before he will sell it to you. According to the owner if you put the proper number of coats on to achieven the required number of mills thickness it will last 5 years. Mine is only making it about 3 and he said it is because they did not apply enough thickness. I will likely redo it next year and do it proper. It is not cheap and costs about 60.00 for enough stuff to do 25 square feet. That is enough for a catalina and you don't have to redo it for 5 years! I don't think they have a web site, but the name is smith & Co. and the phone number is (510) 237-6842.
My 1982 catalina 30 has something called smith systems on the wood. It is a two part process. The first part is a sealer on the wood and can be bought at most marine stores. You can use it then varnish on top and it will last longer. Apparently (according to the smith inventer) almost anything will stick to wood better than varnish. The second part is a special u/v barrier and weather protection. This must be bought direct from the place in richmond, california. I imagine you can mail order it. The guy that owns the place is a bit of a character and will make you read the information and make sure you understand it all before he will sell it to you. According to the owner if you put the proper number of coats on to achieven the required number of mills thickness it will last 5 years. Mine is only making it about 3 and he said it is because they did not apply enough thickness. I will likely redo it next year and do it proper. It is not cheap and costs about 60.00 for enough stuff to do 25 square feet. That is enough for a catalina and you don't have to redo it for 5 years! I don't think they have a web site, but the name is smith & Co. and the phone number is (510) 237-6842.
Polyurethane (Varnish)
Tried the oils, then tried polyurethane varnish. I like the poly so far, it outlasting the oil. Regards, Ted
Tried the oils, then tried polyurethane varnish. I like the poly so far, it outlasting the oil. Regards, Ted
vitra-lite
This Pratt & Lambert varnish deserves high honors. I've had lots of opportunites to try various varnishes by the gallon (I rennovate historical homes) and I now use this exclusively. It applies great, smooths out well and doesn't hold all those teeny bubbles that get stirred in and 'yellows' very little over time. In addition, in my experience, subsequent topcoats are a cinch. The finish, once clean, sands/steelwools easily and it sticks to previous coats very well. The best part is that it is very unobtrusive, as far as varnishes go, to the wood itself. --Rico
This Pratt & Lambert varnish deserves high honors. I've had lots of opportunites to try various varnishes by the gallon (I rennovate historical homes) and I now use this exclusively. It applies great, smooths out well and doesn't hold all those teeny bubbles that get stirred in and 'yellows' very little over time. In addition, in my experience, subsequent topcoats are a cinch. The finish, once clean, sands/steelwools easily and it sticks to previous coats very well. The best part is that it is very unobtrusive, as far as varnishes go, to the wood itself. --Rico
Cape Ann at boatshows
Go to the upcoming boatshows. Cape Ann usually has a booth. The company (very small) is based in Mass. Roc
Go to the upcoming boatshows. Cape Ann usually has a booth. The company (very small) is based in Mass. Roc
Orange schmorange
Go with the Cetol. The previous owner added extra teak accents to my boat -- coamings, toe rails, a strip on the cabin top. It looks great but demands care. I went to Cetol. It last a good three times as long as varnish. People compliment my bright work all the time. Would you rather sail or sand?
Go with the Cetol. The previous owner added extra teak accents to my boat -- coamings, toe rails, a strip on the cabin top. It looks great but demands care. I went to Cetol. It last a good three times as long as varnish. People compliment my bright work all the time. Would you rather sail or sand?
Sail or sand argument
I love the "would you rather sail or sand" argument Cetol users seem to have. I don't know where you sail but it isn't windy here EVERY day. I take the opportunity of windless days to touch up the brightwork. There's also the "you can't tell the difference from a distance" argument. Sure, if you're 200 yards away, you can't tell the difference, but my concern isn't the dude drifting past me, I'm more interested in how it looks to ME. I want my boat to look as good as possible, and since I don't like the look of those products, I use varnish. "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
LaDonna
I love the "would you rather sail or sand" argument Cetol users seem to have. I don't know where you sail but it isn't windy here EVERY day. I take the opportunity of windless days to touch up the brightwork. There's also the "you can't tell the difference from a distance" argument. Sure, if you're 200 yards away, you can't tell the difference, but my concern isn't the dude drifting past me, I'm more interested in how it looks to ME. I want my boat to look as good as possible, and since I don't like the look of those products, I use varnish. "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
LaDonnaArmada
I'm all for the lets go sail argument. Last sprind i drilled out the bungs amd pulled off every piece of teak on the boat. It's really harsh here in florida and i only used 3 coats last year and it looked like crap a year later. This time i took all the pieces home and put on 5 coats in a controlled enviorment. i might recoat next spring one layer. I didn't sand my hatch boards down and just put on 2 coats and they look just as good. It's not the varnishes fault it looked bad after a year. It was more likley that the soft scrub, bleach, hard bristled brush, or other cleanser deterioated the finish.
I'm all for the lets go sail argument. Last sprind i drilled out the bungs amd pulled off every piece of teak on the boat. It's really harsh here in florida and i only used 3 coats last year and it looked like crap a year later. This time i took all the pieces home and put on 5 coats in a controlled enviorment. i might recoat next spring one layer. I didn't sand my hatch boards down and just put on 2 coats and they look just as good. It's not the varnishes fault it looked bad after a year. It was more likley that the soft scrub, bleach, hard bristled brush, or other cleanser deterioated the finish.
You do not have to spend your summer doing teak!
Hey folks: I have an OLD Catalina 25 (l977 model) and, when I purchased this vessel , the teak in such bad condition that would not believe what I had to work with!! Four years ago, I used a cleaner to clean up the mess I had, then tried to sand it down so that I could do something with it-notice-I said that I TRIED to sand it down!! I then ordered a product called TEAK TOPCOAT by SavCote (strictly a mail order company that I have used since 1972 with their various products) which proved to be one of the best products for teak I have ever used. After attempting to sand without removing the teak from the boat (don't mess with it if it isn't leaking!!) I put two coats of the stuff on the wood with amazing success. I since have spent about thirty minutes every year dressing up the teak with the same quart of TEAK TOPCOAT that purchased originally (about $30.00) and it still looks like new wood!! They also have a plastic varnish that I have used on my Mirror Dinghy (No. 24304 for you Mirror Dinghy buffs) that I built in l972-and after lots of racing and three coats since I built it-looks like a new boat also) Their paint is one pain in the ***** to work with, but, fills cracks, and takes a real beating if you use your boat like I do with my Mirror Dinghy. Their phone number is 1 888 274 2474 Call them- you will not be disappointed!!
Hey folks: I have an OLD Catalina 25 (l977 model) and, when I purchased this vessel , the teak in such bad condition that would not believe what I had to work with!! Four years ago, I used a cleaner to clean up the mess I had, then tried to sand it down so that I could do something with it-notice-I said that I TRIED to sand it down!! I then ordered a product called TEAK TOPCOAT by SavCote (strictly a mail order company that I have used since 1972 with their various products) which proved to be one of the best products for teak I have ever used. After attempting to sand without removing the teak from the boat (don't mess with it if it isn't leaking!!) I put two coats of the stuff on the wood with amazing success. I since have spent about thirty minutes every year dressing up the teak with the same quart of TEAK TOPCOAT that purchased originally (about $30.00) and it still looks like new wood!! They also have a plastic varnish that I have used on my Mirror Dinghy (No. 24304 for you Mirror Dinghy buffs) that I built in l972-and after lots of racing and three coats since I built it-looks like a new boat also) Their paint is one pain in the ***** to work with, but, fills cracks, and takes a real beating if you use your boat like I do with my Mirror Dinghy. Their phone number is 1 888 274 2474 Call them- you will not be disappointed!!
Deks Olje
I've had good luck with Deks Olje. There are two types, #1 and #2. #1 is thinner and penetrates, leaving a mat finish. #2 puts a gloss finish on it. The color is pretty natural. Once a year, wet sand lightly w/#1 and re-coat with #2. Unlike varnish it gradually wears off and doesn't need to be completely removed if you let it go.
I've had good luck with Deks Olje. There are two types, #1 and #2. #1 is thinner and penetrates, leaving a mat finish. #2 puts a gloss finish on it. The color is pretty natural. Once a year, wet sand lightly w/#1 and re-coat with #2. Unlike varnish it gradually wears off and doesn't need to be completely removed if you let it go.
CETOL
I refinished my teak using cetol semi gloss over 2yrs ago, still looks like new, I can live with a slight discolor, but not with refinishing every 6 months
I refinished my teak using cetol semi gloss over 2yrs ago, still looks like new, I can live with a slight discolor, but not with refinishing every 6 months
Ain't nothing like the real thing...baby
My Grandfather was a shipwright and cabinet maker. He would be appalled if I were to use anything but high quality spar varnish on my wood. The trick to a long lasting finish is preparation and maintenance. Sand the wood as smooth as possible, then start with a "spit" coat (I usually thin this one to about 4:1 varnish/mineral spirits). Apply at least two spit coats before using unthinned STRAINED varnish. I try to apply it on as hot and dry a day as possible. Place the varnish container onto a "Blue Ice" packet to keep it cool. You can use a fine badger hair brush, but I find that the cheap, throw away foam ones are just great. When applying, use long strokes, all in one direction going from dry to wet, and "feathering" it into the wet. After every two or three coats of unthinned varnish, I let it dry thoroughly and then wet sand with 220 or 300 for smoothness. Once you have 8 to 10 coats, it will be mirror bright and smooth as glass. All that will be needed in the future is a light sanding and application of a fresh top coat at least once a year. I did the "from scratch" treatment to my last boat three years ago, the present owner maintained it is I did, and it still looks completely fresh. I just bought my Catalina 36 in March, and intend to spend a few hours bringing my brighwork to Bristol Condition. Be sure to mask around grab rails, etc. A lot of work? You bet. But compared to the "easy" stuff (and I've tried a lot of them), it looks fabulous. The care I give my varnish extends to the care the rest of my boat receives. I feel that a job worth doing at all is worth doing as well as possible.
My Grandfather was a shipwright and cabinet maker. He would be appalled if I were to use anything but high quality spar varnish on my wood. The trick to a long lasting finish is preparation and maintenance. Sand the wood as smooth as possible, then start with a "spit" coat (I usually thin this one to about 4:1 varnish/mineral spirits). Apply at least two spit coats before using unthinned STRAINED varnish. I try to apply it on as hot and dry a day as possible. Place the varnish container onto a "Blue Ice" packet to keep it cool. You can use a fine badger hair brush, but I find that the cheap, throw away foam ones are just great. When applying, use long strokes, all in one direction going from dry to wet, and "feathering" it into the wet. After every two or three coats of unthinned varnish, I let it dry thoroughly and then wet sand with 220 or 300 for smoothness. Once you have 8 to 10 coats, it will be mirror bright and smooth as glass. All that will be needed in the future is a light sanding and application of a fresh top coat at least once a year. I did the "from scratch" treatment to my last boat three years ago, the present owner maintained it is I did, and it still looks completely fresh. I just bought my Catalina 36 in March, and intend to spend a few hours bringing my brighwork to Bristol Condition. Be sure to mask around grab rails, etc. A lot of work? You bet. But compared to the "easy" stuff (and I've tried a lot of them), it looks fabulous. The care I give my varnish extends to the care the rest of my boat receives. I feel that a job worth doing at all is worth doing as well as possible.
A Cure for the Orange
When I refinished the teak on my previous boat, an O'day25, I used Cetol and didn't get the infamous orange glow that everyone complains about. I took every piece of wood off the boat and went to a car wash. Before power washing I used Teak World bleach, and some Clorox, and lightly scrubbed. I let the bleach sit for 10 or 15 mins before pressure washing the wood. I used a lot of soap and then spent about 10 dollars rinsing it all. After a couple of days of fine sanding I allpied 4 coats of Cetol satin (a day between coats)then applied 2 coats of the gloss. Remember, you can use the satin finish by itself, but not the gloss. I was left with 25 year old teak that appeared to have been hand rubbed monthly. This is no joke folks. It's all in the prep work. One afterthought, however, since I was very tired, I overlooked one handrail in my pressure washing madness. It did have a slight orange tint. I have pics to prove?
When I refinished the teak on my previous boat, an O'day25, I used Cetol and didn't get the infamous orange glow that everyone complains about. I took every piece of wood off the boat and went to a car wash. Before power washing I used Teak World bleach, and some Clorox, and lightly scrubbed. I let the bleach sit for 10 or 15 mins before pressure washing the wood. I used a lot of soap and then spent about 10 dollars rinsing it all. After a couple of days of fine sanding I allpied 4 coats of Cetol satin (a day between coats)then applied 2 coats of the gloss. Remember, you can use the satin finish by itself, but not the gloss. I was left with 25 year old teak that appeared to have been hand rubbed monthly. This is no joke folks. It's all in the prep work. One afterthought, however, since I was very tired, I overlooked one handrail in my pressure washing madness. It did have a slight orange tint. I have pics to prove?
Well said Craig (and Kevin)
I agree wholeheartedly that prep work is the key to brightwork. I think too many people don't realize that even if you're using Cetol/Armada/Deks Olje, you still need to prep the wood correctly. I've seen too many folks literally slap Cetol on barely sanded (if it's lucky!) wood & it looks disgusting! Why bother, if you're not going to take the care to prep it right? But to give Cetol-users a break, I have seen some very well done jobs. Very smooth, with lots of care taken. It's not easy but worth the effort in the long run. Kevin, I'd love to see photos - have you posted them to the Owners Photo Album? I'm especially interested in a comparison of the "orange" handrail to the rest of the teak. Does thorough cleaning make that much of a difference?! Thanks! LaDonna
I agree wholeheartedly that prep work is the key to brightwork. I think too many people don't realize that even if you're using Cetol/Armada/Deks Olje, you still need to prep the wood correctly. I've seen too many folks literally slap Cetol on barely sanded (if it's lucky!) wood & it looks disgusting! Why bother, if you're not going to take the care to prep it right? But to give Cetol-users a break, I have seen some very well done jobs. Very smooth, with lots of care taken. It's not easy but worth the effort in the long run. Kevin, I'd love to see photos - have you posted them to the Owners Photo Album? I'm especially interested in a comparison of the "orange" handrail to the rest of the teak. Does thorough cleaning make that much of a difference?! Thanks! LaDonna
Armada like new after 1yr
I used Armada last July on my cockpit table, cup holder, and hatch boards. Haven't done anything else since then and they all still look great. they were covered with sunbrella covers over the winter. On the other hand, earlier this summer I removed the hand rails and teak strips on the side of the cabin and sanded, bleached, brightened and oiled them. After a month the oiled wood looked like crap and was covered with mildew. DON'T USE TEAK OIL. I would agree that the key to a good finish is preparation. the wood should be clean, smooth and dry before finish is applied, and the more coats the better.
I used Armada last July on my cockpit table, cup holder, and hatch boards. Haven't done anything else since then and they all still look great. they were covered with sunbrella covers over the winter. On the other hand, earlier this summer I removed the hand rails and teak strips on the side of the cabin and sanded, bleached, brightened and oiled them. After a month the oiled wood looked like crap and was covered with mildew. DON'T USE TEAK OIL. I would agree that the key to a good finish is preparation. the wood should be clean, smooth and dry before finish is applied, and the more coats the better.
Teak Oil
Sorry La Donna but I'm an old fashion kind of guy. I use teak oil for my "bright work" with following application schedule for new/newly exposed teak: once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year (the season), twice a season from there on out. Once you've got the "base" done properly, it looks great with minimum time invested. I followed this schedule when restoring the neglected exterior teak on "Damage Control", after 3 months it has a rich dark luster. I'll take that deep luster over those "glare finishes" anytime.
Sorry La Donna but I'm an old fashion kind of guy. I use teak oil for my "bright work" with following application schedule for new/newly exposed teak: once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year (the season), twice a season from there on out. Once you've got the "base" done properly, it looks great with minimum time invested. I followed this schedule when restoring the neglected exterior teak on "Damage Control", after 3 months it has a rich dark luster. I'll take that deep luster over those "glare finishes" anytime.
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