I just purchased a 1995 hunter 430 and am currently finishing up replacing both holding tanks (what a job!!). The boat has a small leak that I am taking care of. The cushion in the main area have been cleaned and smell great. The beds have been replaced in both state rooms for better apperance, comfort, and to smell better. The bilge was very clean and I have cleaned it with Simple Green. I have changed out 100% of the head plumbing. The heads are both being plumbed with fresh water. I keep a large box fan running in the boat when I'm not on the boat along with two of the West Marine dehumidifire's. I'm told that it is good to keep air moving in the boat. The boat is in Southern California which as relitively low humidity compared to alot of you down south. What are some of the other "tricks" to keeping the boat smelling good and keeping the humity inside the boat lower then the outside?
how can you keep the cabin extra dry and smelling?
- Thread starter Ryan Blocker
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Hi Ryan, our PNW climate ...
causes considerable condensation during the winter months. While our boat is in its slip I keep three of the dehumidifiers going all the time; one in each cabin. Glued to the top of each is a liquid scent oil brass ring the kind that home owners use on a burning light bulb to spread pleasant smells throughout the home. The heat from the dehumidifier keeps the boat dry and the heated oil scent keeps the boat smelling nice. When the temps drop I keep a space heater running on low. These steps do cost some in power consumption but we have no mold, minimal moisture and the boat is pleasant upon arrival for a fall or winter cruise or weekend stay. Terry
causes considerable condensation during the winter months. While our boat is in its slip I keep three of the dehumidifiers going all the time; one in each cabin. Glued to the top of each is a liquid scent oil brass ring the kind that home owners use on a burning light bulb to spread pleasant smells throughout the home. The heat from the dehumidifier keeps the boat dry and the heated oil scent keeps the boat smelling nice. When the temps drop I keep a space heater running on low. These steps do cost some in power consumption but we have no mold, minimal moisture and the boat is pleasant upon arrival for a fall or winter cruise or weekend stay. Terry
Keeping air smelling good.
One of the best odor absorbers is plain white distilled vinegar. Keep several empty margarine containers filled half full with the vinegar and place them in different areas.It leaves a little acidic smell in the air but gobbles up any odors and airs out immediately when hatches are open. it works great. Also the "Damp Rid" bags that hang up in basememts work great come back in a few weeks and the bags are filled up with water taken from the air. Hope this helps. I recently bought a 1998 Hunter 376 and I had the same problem with having to replace the bedding front and rear. I am thinking of upholstering the beds with the same color leather like vinyl that they used in the main salon. They seem to be impervious to moisture problems and can be wiped downed with cleaners like simple green. We are thinking of then placing a cotton type thick quilted mattress topper over them that can be taken off washed and stored over the months the boat is not in use.
One of the best odor absorbers is plain white distilled vinegar. Keep several empty margarine containers filled half full with the vinegar and place them in different areas.It leaves a little acidic smell in the air but gobbles up any odors and airs out immediately when hatches are open. it works great. Also the "Damp Rid" bags that hang up in basememts work great come back in a few weeks and the bags are filled up with water taken from the air. Hope this helps. I recently bought a 1998 Hunter 376 and I had the same problem with having to replace the bedding front and rear. I am thinking of upholstering the beds with the same color leather like vinyl that they used in the main salon. They seem to be impervious to moisture problems and can be wiped downed with cleaners like simple green. We are thinking of then placing a cotton type thick quilted mattress topper over them that can be taken off washed and stored over the months the boat is not in use.
And a few suggestions...
Leave all interior hatches open..pull all drawers out a few inches so that air can circulate in 'em and behind 'em. Open all locker doors...prop your cushions and mattresses up so that air can circulate under 'em. I could go on, but I think you get it that you want to leave the boat so that air can get EVERYWHERE--under cushions, in lockers, behind drawers,in the bilge.... Your boat...you figure out how do that.
Leave all interior hatches open..pull all drawers out a few inches so that air can circulate in 'em and behind 'em. Open all locker doors...prop your cushions and mattresses up so that air can circulate under 'em. I could go on, but I think you get it that you want to leave the boat so that air can get EVERYWHERE--under cushions, in lockers, behind drawers,in the bilge.... Your boat...you figure out how do that.
Ryan...
up your insurance policy immediately as that box fan will eventually crap out, catch fire, and cost you the boat! Get Nicro solar powered vents and put ventilators in your hatch boards. Increase air movement through your boat, but don't put it at risk with a cheap fan.
up your insurance policy immediately as that box fan will eventually crap out, catch fire, and cost you the boat! Get Nicro solar powered vents and put ventilators in your hatch boards. Increase air movement through your boat, but don't put it at risk with a cheap fan.
Dehumidifier for Boats
I have a H31 1987, purchased 7 years ago, and after the first winter I scrubbed mildew for hours. I purchased the "Model DH-5-1 dehumidifier" (see web link). It runs year round, no other fans or solar vents needed. The drain was a weak plastic piece of @#$@#@, I had a stainless "nipple" welded in its place. Works great, worth every penny! bill
I have a H31 1987, purchased 7 years ago, and after the first winter I scrubbed mildew for hours. I purchased the "Model DH-5-1 dehumidifier" (see web link). It runs year round, no other fans or solar vents needed. The drain was a weak plastic piece of @#$@#@, I had a stainless "nipple" welded in its place. Works great, worth every penny! bill
muffin fans
Ryan, My boat was plumbed for air conditioning but I didn't have the compressors installed. Instead, I use large muffin fans designed for computer servers. These fans like to run 12/7, are low draw, and very quiet. And then run on 12 volts. I hook them into the existing ducts, and they circulate air nicely through the boat. Pretty much run them all the time, whether we're on the boat or not. John.
Ryan, My boat was plumbed for air conditioning but I didn't have the compressors installed. Instead, I use large muffin fans designed for computer servers. These fans like to run 12/7, are low draw, and very quiet. And then run on 12 volts. I hook them into the existing ducts, and they circulate air nicely through the boat. Pretty much run them all the time, whether we're on the boat or not. John.
keep interior dry & free of odor
Hi Ryan: If there are no leaks from seacocks & onboard tanks, then periodically washing out the bilge with Softscrub & water; then drying the bilge thoroughly is a great start. When leaving the boat for a while (e.g. few days, week or month) always lift floor boards in forward & aft berths and the salon. Also it helps to circulate the inside air using small battery powered fans (West Marine model is OK, it uses 4 D size batteries). This approach has kept our bilge dry for many years. Controlling the odor is a little more difficult but success can be achieved by the following approach: 1. Always pumpout waste tanks after a trip & refill (or partly fill) with fresh water and pumpout again. It is important to keep as little sea water as possible in the tanks & plumbing lines between the seacocks & tanks. Most of the odors come from dead algae that live in the sea water. 2. When leaving the boat for a few days, or longer: (a) have only fresh water in waste tanks. It may be beneficial to add a little head treatment liquid to the water in the tank. Usually the treatment fluid contains some perfume that has a pleasing odor; (b) close the seacocks immediately (within a few seconds) after running fresh water from faucets into the lines from the sinks to prevent sea water from backflowing into the plumbing line on the inside of the seacock; (c) put rubber stoppers on the sink drains so odors cannot backflow from the plumbing line into the interior of the boat; (d) drybowl the toilets (assuming you have manual toilets) by pumping fresh water from the toilets into the plumbing lines to both the waste tank & direct overboard seacock so that fresh water is on both sides of the Y-valve; (e) cover, or put a stopper in the vent opening, of the anti-siphon valve in the 1 1/2" plumbing line running from the toilet to the Y-valve that feeds the direct overboard seacock & waste tank; (f) if you have black rubber hoses running in waste lines, try covering with several layers of saran wrap. We also hang a few car air freshners in the heads if odors are noticeable. The above approach has worked for us on two sailboats Hunter 460 & Catalina 42) for over 10 years. If you want to discuss the topic in greater detail, contact me at voyagerMDR@gmail.com.
Maxwell
Hi Ryan: If there are no leaks from seacocks & onboard tanks, then periodically washing out the bilge with Softscrub & water; then drying the bilge thoroughly is a great start. When leaving the boat for a while (e.g. few days, week or month) always lift floor boards in forward & aft berths and the salon. Also it helps to circulate the inside air using small battery powered fans (West Marine model is OK, it uses 4 D size batteries). This approach has kept our bilge dry for many years. Controlling the odor is a little more difficult but success can be achieved by the following approach: 1. Always pumpout waste tanks after a trip & refill (or partly fill) with fresh water and pumpout again. It is important to keep as little sea water as possible in the tanks & plumbing lines between the seacocks & tanks. Most of the odors come from dead algae that live in the sea water. 2. When leaving the boat for a few days, or longer: (a) have only fresh water in waste tanks. It may be beneficial to add a little head treatment liquid to the water in the tank. Usually the treatment fluid contains some perfume that has a pleasing odor; (b) close the seacocks immediately (within a few seconds) after running fresh water from faucets into the lines from the sinks to prevent sea water from backflowing into the plumbing line on the inside of the seacock; (c) put rubber stoppers on the sink drains so odors cannot backflow from the plumbing line into the interior of the boat; (d) drybowl the toilets (assuming you have manual toilets) by pumping fresh water from the toilets into the plumbing lines to both the waste tank & direct overboard seacock so that fresh water is on both sides of the Y-valve; (e) cover, or put a stopper in the vent opening, of the anti-siphon valve in the 1 1/2" plumbing line running from the toilet to the Y-valve that feeds the direct overboard seacock & waste tank; (f) if you have black rubber hoses running in waste lines, try covering with several layers of saran wrap. We also hang a few car air freshners in the heads if odors are noticeable. The above approach has worked for us on two sailboats Hunter 460 & Catalina 42) for over 10 years. If you want to discuss the topic in greater detail, contact me at voyagerMDR@gmail.com.
Maxwell- Status