How best to use old style mainsheet traveller?

[Ginger Baker]

I have a 1984 O'Day 26 with the original T-track/pin stop traveller. The car has a spring loaded pin and there are screw stops on each side of the track. Can anyone advise how to adjust this type of system most efficiently? I can't figure it out. Thanks.

 

[AlastairLC]

Can you post a photo, Ginger?

 

[jssailem]

Ginger, We have different boats but I have the traveler track with pin set braces (old school) on my boat.

It is a process of choosing the placement before you tack that I use. Recognize you can position the traveler block before you tack but once the traveler moves against the pinblock it will take a lot of force to change the pinblock any closer to the center (against the traveler block and power of the main sail).

In preparing to tack I decide where my main sheet block needs to start out. I set the pinblock for that position. I tack and set sheet for the main sail. If I have chosen to tight, in moderate to light winds I can hold the block and ease the pinblock a bit. Once secure I let the traveler slide up to the block.

This works fairly well. If I over shoot and want to move the traveler back to center, you need to push/pull the traveler away from the pinblock. Move the pinblock to the new location set it then release the traveler.
You can get the traveler to move by releasing the pressure on the traveler. On method is to let the mainsheet go and the sail luff. This releases the pressure on the traveler. Move the traveler and pin block. Secure the pinblock then bring in the mainsheet and trim the sail. In heavy breezes you may need to rig a block and tackle to pull the traveler off the pinblock to change the setting.

Before I make the next tack I set the unused pinblock for the opposite tack in a matching position on the track. If it is 3 pin holes left of center then on the other tack it will be pretty close to 3 pin holes right of center.

By contrast the traveler with lines and blocks allows the set to occur after the boat is tacked and the mainsail is trimmed. The traveler becomes another tool to trim the sail. Because it is fluid you have infinite addjustements available.

If Racing this can be a real advantage. If cruising, the pinblock system works as the cruiser gennerally is not constantly adjusting the sails to squeeze every ounce of power out of the sails.

 

[jssailem]

Here is an example of a traveler with pinblocks on either side of the traveler car (the middle bit with the block for the main sheet). The pin blocks are moved to the desired position then tightened. The traveler car runs up to the pin block and holds the car in that position by the force of the mainsheet in the traveler cars block.

 

[Ginger Baker]

That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. The car on my traveller has the spring loaded pin, so I guess I just have to hold the pin up as I'm tacking so that the car can slide over to the new position.

 

[Ginger Baker]

I will as soon as I can grab a photo.

 

[jeepbluetj]

So my Catalina 30 came with a traveler like you describe - pins on the car, pull em up to move the car. It was curved too. It was an absolutely useless piece of hardware.

A few $$ to Garhauer and I was much happier. (I actually got the entire C-30 upgrade with a traveler, rigid vang, all new mainsheet and blocks, new jib cars, etc.. It was a bargain for how much better it made the boat.)

I use the traveler a lot. It's my primary main control now, except when pretty far downwind. Even tho I'm a cruiser, it's sure nice to be able to dump the main in a hurry, tweak it for twist by using the sheet and traveler, etc. It's soooo much easier. You may think about an upgrade after you try using the one you have for a while.

 

[Davidasailor26]

By contrast the traveler with lines and blocks allows the set to occur after the boat is tacked and the mainsail is trimmed. The traveler becomes another tool to trim the sail. Because it is fluid you have infinite addjustements available.

The other advantage of a system with lines and blocks is that it’s much easier to get the traveler to windward of center. Often when going up wind you’ll want the traveler above center so that you can get the boom to the centerline. With a pin block setup the only way to do that is to either luff before the tack in order to drop the traveler and pins down to the low side, or to fight to pull the traveler up after the tack. With a block and tackle system you'll have enough purchase to easily pull the traveler up during or after the tack.

 

[cb32863]

Pin stop anything on a boat is a PITA factor of about 15. Swap it out and you will be much happier. The Lewmar system has the bolts in a track so you can use your old holes. Get some Butyl to re-seal and have at it with a proper system. Never understood the idea of pin stops. Even had that for jib cars on my 235, fixed that and much better.
https://www.velasailingsupply.com/l...MI-d-nwbvP1gIVD1gNCh0XEgQlEAkYBCABEgLYz_D_BwE

 

[agprice22]

That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. The car on my traveller has the spring loaded pin, so I guess I just have to hold the pin up as I'm tacking so that the car can slide over to the new position.

I would not be holding the main sheet car when you tack. It may seem controlled at times, but it could smack you hard too!
Since you have both pin stops and a pin on the car, I would ease the sheet, set your leeward pin stop, reposition the car to leeward, set the windward pinstop, haul the sheet and tack.
In other words, a PITA.
You could modify the car to add some turning blocks and terminal eye straps, add some blocks and cam cleats at each end and do away with the pin stops.
I have done a couple of travelers, and it works well.
Or... listen to these smart people and go to Garhauer! I have one of their MT2 setups... excellent gear!

 

[Joe]

To use it today.... grab the mainsheet bundle above the track and take the strain off by pulling it towards center... now you can un pin the car and set it where you want, If you understand what a point of sail is you can pretty much assign each pin hole to that anticipated point... so if you're gonna go on a beam reach you can preset the pin to half way between center and end.... then use your mainsheet to adjust for minor changes in apparent wind direction and the vang to maintain twist. As soon as your budget allows... you might consider installing a few blocks and cleats to make the car more easily adjustable. Heck you might even splurge for a ball bearing car. You can get cars for your existing T track.... If you go Harken, you must use their proprietary track... I'd go simple though... it's not that hard to rig something up on a budget.

 

[SG]

Maybe I missed it above, but BEFORE you tack -- preset the track stop for the next tack. Then tack over and the slide will move to the preset position. You then put the pin where you want it for the next track.

If you're not close hauled, you can usually just slide the track over and reset the pin -- if the sheet is too tight, ease it a bit and that should work.

As always, don't fingers, hands, wrists, or arms in way of the load -- you should be okay.

I've seen boats rig blocks on the coamings and "remodeling" the tracks with some blocks. I think Lewmar used to make a kit to remodel the tracks -- but your boat has been around a long time. They may not have the parts around.

 

[Ward H]

On my 25 I had the screw stops but no pin on the car. Real PITA to use but I did to determine if it was worth upgrading to a proper traveler.
I kept the traveler car centered for the first two years I sailed. Then I man handled it into position by presetting the stops or easing the main and pulling the car to position and setting the stops.
Those screw stops were always jamming up.
This past spring I finally installed a Harken traveler. I liked that the car has the blocks and cams on it leaving the ends of the track over the bench area less cluttered.
But,
I upgraded other rigging first and I'm glad I did.
ST Winches were first, jib tracks when I bought a new jib, main sheet set up, proper outhaul and cunningham when I bought a loose foot main.
I wouldn't play with adding stuff to make the current setup work better. Use it as is and when you are ready upgrade to a Harken or Garhauer traveler. Money well spent.