We are rebuilding a 1980 Hunter 27 from the hull in. We would like to add a hot water system to our boat which we plan to use for costal cruising. Although we have owned the boat for the last 18 years and never had hot water, we are now getting to the age where hot water and other comforts are more important to us. Does anyone have any recomendations on a hot water system to use? We have converted the aft quarter berth to a storage area and that is where we plan to put the system. We are open to any suggestions.
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Garrett Pensell
hot water
I imagine your engine is raw water cooled. If so, getting it to produce reasonable quantities of hot water is difficult, if not impossible. The reason is that they typically run a thermostat that keeps the engine temperature down in the 130-140F range. They do this to reduce the corrosion problems from running saltwater through the engine block. If that is the case, you may want to consider an "on-demand" LPG water heater (especially if you already have propane aboard for the stove). I do not have much experience with these units, but I am told their performance is quite good. They are very common on European boats.
I imagine your engine is raw water cooled. If so, getting it to produce reasonable quantities of hot water is difficult, if not impossible. The reason is that they typically run a thermostat that keeps the engine temperature down in the 130-140F range. They do this to reduce the corrosion problems from running saltwater through the engine block. If that is the case, you may want to consider an "on-demand" LPG water heater (especially if you already have propane aboard for the stove). I do not have much experience with these units, but I am told their performance is quite good. They are very common on European boats.
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Jack
More info.
Would like to hear/see more info on the conversion of your quarter berth to a storage area. How did the conversion effect the chart table? How about battery storage? What else have you done to improve the useage of the boat. I have also had my h27 17 years but its preaty stock except for roller furling on the jib.
Would like to hear/see more info on the conversion of your quarter berth to a storage area. How did the conversion effect the chart table? How about battery storage? What else have you done to improve the useage of the boat. I have also had my h27 17 years but its preaty stock except for roller furling on the jib.
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Jay Kent
No hot water experience
but I, too, am very interested in your conversion of the quarter berth for storage. I have many of the same questions, along with the main one.....how did you set it up to be able to get to the area at the very aft portion? Would love to learn more and talk with you about this. I can be emailed directly at: jwk@towerconnections.com OR call me toll free at 888 823 0676. Thanks.
but I, too, am very interested in your conversion of the quarter berth for storage. I have many of the same questions, along with the main one.....how did you set it up to be able to get to the area at the very aft portion? Would love to learn more and talk with you about this. I can be emailed directly at: jwk@towerconnections.com OR call me toll free at 888 823 0676. Thanks.
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Tony Z
Me too, all you need is money.
So far the best solution from a safety point of view looks like a diesel heater. Espar makes them but they are real expensive. Like $ 1000.00 just for the materials. The up side is that you get cabin heat out of the deal as well.... I have not done this yet. I am still looking for a better mouse trap.
So far the best solution from a safety point of view looks like a diesel heater. Espar makes them but they are real expensive. Like $ 1000.00 just for the materials. The up side is that you get cabin heat out of the deal as well.... I have not done this yet. I am still looking for a better mouse trap.
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Bryan C.
Seaward heater setup
The typical setup on a heater like a Seaward (installed in my '88 35) allows both AC and engine heating. Seawards (WM sells them for about $250 for 6 gal, its all you need, get the stainless model) (and other brands I imagine) have four water connections, two for tank water in/out and two for engine coolant water in/out. On a fresh water cooled engine (at least the Yannie 3GM30F), there are two cocks on the engine in the fresh water system where hoses are attached and led under the sole to the hot water heater. Hot water (actually part radiator fluid) used to cool the engine is cycled thru a heat exchanger in the water heater. If you have no cocks on your engine I image you could tap into the water coolant line coming out of the engine. I don't believe the water heater would cause the engine water flow tobe cut off, but I would read the hot water heater manual to make sure (i.e. you don't want the heater cutting off your engine's water coolant flow, but I don't believe it does). I don't know why you couldn't use sea water as opposed to radiator/fresh water as the heating agent in the water heater; the water is already strained for the engine and I believe the water heater has a zinc (have read Peggy talking about this) that would probably need to be changed more often if sea water was used. But again, check a manual for the heater you are looking at to make sure sea water is OK. Garrett says the water temp may be a little lower than fresh water systems, I don't know, but if its at 140* I don't know why it wouldn't heat the water in the hot water tank. The problem with on demand heaters is they use propane that must have a constant pilot light lit if you want it to work properly. People DIE from propane explosions and CO poisoning, so you MUST get a CO alarm (and I'd also get a propane sniffer) if you go that route.
The typical setup on a heater like a Seaward (installed in my '88 35) allows both AC and engine heating. Seawards (WM sells them for about $250 for 6 gal, its all you need, get the stainless model) (and other brands I imagine) have four water connections, two for tank water in/out and two for engine coolant water in/out. On a fresh water cooled engine (at least the Yannie 3GM30F), there are two cocks on the engine in the fresh water system where hoses are attached and led under the sole to the hot water heater. Hot water (actually part radiator fluid) used to cool the engine is cycled thru a heat exchanger in the water heater. If you have no cocks on your engine I image you could tap into the water coolant line coming out of the engine. I don't believe the water heater would cause the engine water flow tobe cut off, but I would read the hot water heater manual to make sure (i.e. you don't want the heater cutting off your engine's water coolant flow, but I don't believe it does). I don't know why you couldn't use sea water as opposed to radiator/fresh water as the heating agent in the water heater; the water is already strained for the engine and I believe the water heater has a zinc (have read Peggy talking about this) that would probably need to be changed more often if sea water was used. But again, check a manual for the heater you are looking at to make sure sea water is OK. Garrett says the water temp may be a little lower than fresh water systems, I don't know, but if its at 140* I don't know why it wouldn't heat the water in the hot water tank. The problem with on demand heaters is they use propane that must have a constant pilot light lit if you want it to work properly. People DIE from propane explosions and CO poisoning, so you MUST get a CO alarm (and I'd also get a propane sniffer) if you go that route.
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