Hot restarts

[gettinthere]

Engine starts fine but after sailing, it ddn't restart. I get the oil pressure buzzer as usual. But no clicking solenoid, no slow grinding, nothing. Voltage and amperage are ample. I dropped anchor and tried several times. Wiggled and tugged wires to see if there might be an intermittent connection. Tapped a hammer on the solenoid to free it up if it was sticking. Eventually it started but I have no clue as to why.

My guesses are the solenoid or corroded wire. Any help on where to start to narrow my search. There is no key, just a switch to activate the system and a button to start. With the switch on the oil buzzer and light activate and guages respond. I never get a slow cranking, even in this no-start scenario. Once it worked, it cranked fine.

Engine is an old Perkins 4.154 that runs great.

 

[Michael Davis]

I’d start with the usual suspects: clean and tighten all the ground connections first.

 

[SailingLoto]

start upstream and work down... you get an OP buzzer so you have power to the key switch and it's turning on. The yellow/red wire engages the relay. Have a friend turn the key to start and see if the yellow/red at the relay has 12v. From there, make sure you have power going in and out of the relay. If your relay has power, it engages and power makes it to the starter, but it fails to spin, remove it and check your brushes.

also, if you have a neutral switch, verify it is working.

check your basics, battery, grounds etc... This is an archaic system. No rocket science involved.

 

[dlochner]

How old are the batteries?

 

[Project_Mayhem]

make sure you have power going in and out of the relay

I'd have the starter tested at a shop or check out the brushes as Loto suggested if you've got power going to it

 

[Stu Jackson]

just a switch to activate the system and a button to start.

Check for a fuse between the button and the starter solenoid. Symptoms indicate something wrong in the wire & connections between them. BEFORE you take anything out. Good luck.

 

[jssailem]

Perkins generally do not have a limiting fuse in the circuit. Check to see how your starter is wired. Does the positive lead go through the 1/2 off switchboard reach the starter or is it direct?

I agree with Michael. Inspect the negative connections.
Second inspect the start battery state of charge.

 

[bobtigar]

I had this problem for years. Finally discovered that the 2 minature machine screws holding the neutral interlock wires on the transmission were loosening (with engine vibration). Couldnt seem to tighten for continuous connection. Solution...spliced the wires together. No more lock-out if I start it in gear, but wiring problem solved. Bob

 

[jssailem]

spliced the wires together. No more lock-out if I start it in gear,

That is a good solution if your the boat owner and the sole operator.

Might be an issue for a new to the boat operator.

I was raised never to start a boat with it in gear. Not everyone is as careful. Thus the electrical lock out was invented for new untrained owners.

I know an owner who started his boat to warm the engine up. It happened to be in gear. His anchor dragged and the boat backed into some rocks messing up his rudder.

The transmission lockout has some utilization. Just like jumpstarting a car.

 

[Head Sail]

Check the main fuse off the battery. Check the main ground connection. Both similar problems I had.

 

[gettinthere]

No lockout! I can start in gear.
Battery system is fine, plenty of amps and volts

I will check the relay and negative side plus all connections in the circuits.

Thnx

 

[senang]

Check the main fuse off the battery. Check the main ground connection. Both similar problems I had.

Main ground connection on the engine block yes, it is often overlooked. This was my latest non starting engine cause

 

[JoeWhite]

In my case, it was the started button itself. Replacing it solved the intermittent problem.

 

[gettinthere]

I think I found the issue. A multi pin connector for the wiring harness had some corrosion inside. I've started, stopped, started, let it run, stopped, started. No problems, so far. But how do you prove a negative? Is it fixed? Hope I don't ever find out its not fixed.
All the pos and neg terminals are solid. Starter button is fine. Plenty of juice from the batteries. Time may tell.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Test for resistance, connect a test light and wiggle the harness to make sure connectors are solid. If you have a heavily corroded wire try some DeOxit. A bit pricey but the stuff is amazing

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I think I found the issue. A multi pin connector for the wiring harness had some corrosion inside. I've started, stopped, started, let it run, stopped, started. No problems, so far. But how do you prove a negative? Is it fixed? Hope I don't ever find out its not fixed.
All the pos and neg terminals are solid. Starter button is fine. Plenty of juice from the batteries. Time may tell.

I think I would have a self-congratulatory beer (or rum) and call it a day!

 

[NotCook]

also, if you have a neutral switch, verify it is working.

This is the problem we had. Paid $700 for a starter removal, rebuild, and reinstall, only to find that it was the lockout switch on the gear selector. Sometimes we have to jiggle it a little, and nudge it toward Forward in order to make the starter engage. I like SL's comment, and this had not occurred to me until I read his comment.