Hooking up an electric start/charging outboard

[texaspike]

Finally purchased a new 9.8 outboard for my Hunter 25.5 with electric start and charging.:dance: My question...where in the world do I hookup and run the wiring to get to my battery that lives under the dining table? Is there a standard way of doing this? I hate to drill holes without knowing for sure I'm doing the right thing. I'm willing to move/cut/drill/whatever it takes to do this the right way. The motor has pretty thick gauged wire coming out with large terminal connectors ready to sit on terminal bolts I just don't have. Any input from my fellow sailors?

TC

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

A couple of things to note. When starting, you will be pulling a lot of amps appx. 20 or more thru those wires. In a sense a heat transfer is occurring and you need thick cables. #6 minimum and suggest that you use the correct color coding. Many times I use to remove the smaller wires and once all the black wires because if you wire up wrong, a battery can explode in your face.

Attachment to the boat. Suggest you use two prong trolling motor plugs as they are capable of handling the amperage when starting. Make sure you use the female end on the cables from the engine. With one manufacturer I recall, there are two black wires coming from the engine with one having a white stripe denoting it was the positive cable. Insure that you are wiring up correctly on color coding going the battery ends. The longer the cable, you may have to step up to the larger one. This will depend but ask for guidance from whom you buy the cable from. Also, secure all the wires vs. leaving them laying in the boat when running wires.

crazy dave condon

 

[Regular Guy]

texaspike;
A week ago I was standing exactly for the same question. Bought a new 9.9HP 4-stroke outboard engine with electric starter and 12A alternator to charge my board batteries; but how to get the cable inside to connect to the board batteries and if needed, for engine services, easily removed?
A trolling motor connector was recommended, came with way thinner cable as from the engine and it would have needed outside a cable to cable connection; I did not like that patchwork, did not wanted to modify the engine cable.

I gave it some thoughts and came up with the idea of a through the wall terminal solution. Went to Home Depot and bought in stainless steel 2 carriage bolts (5/16”-18” x 3”) some washers, lock washers, nuts and an electrical wire box with one small opening but big enough for the engine cable to go through.
I could not get just threaded bolts and bought 2 screws instead (to cut the head off picture).
The idea was to place the water protected electrical wire box on a good spot (cable entrance from the bottom), close to the engine and conveniently to reach but hidden on the inside. When placed, of course with some sealant between box and hull, I would have drilled two holes, about 2.5” apart from each other, through box and hull, put the bolts through, secured them on each side with a washer and had my terminals to connect the engine cable on the outside and the cable to the batteries on the inside. The engine cable could be easily removable if needed.

Well, as I had everything laid out to start with I realized the engine cable would be long enough to reach one battery on the inside. I bought a different box with another opening on top on the back side, placed it beside the dock power connector, with one screw secured and routed the engine cable through it to the inside. The cable comes in from the bottom into the lid-closed box and leaves on the top inside, so I think that is good enough, no water will come through there as long that area not submerges. If needed the cable can be easily pulled back out.
Hart

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Hart;

I do not want to discourage you but the attachment of the engine cable would cause some issues, mainly removing the motor from the boat. It is much easier what I suggested using a quick disconnect using a trolling motor plug and if done correctly as I suggested, it works. There are engines that I installed using that concept still in service even 20 years old. Again, a lot of what I suggest and recommend is based on knowledge and experience being deeply involved with small boats particularly the Hunter water ballast.

crazy dave

 

[Regular Guy]

Thanks Dave,
I see what you advice, was thinking of that as well but did not wanted to cut off the terminals of the engine cable and have of a second connection in-between. Also I was looking for a solution solving the through hull problem at the same time.
The battery is reachable and the cable is easily detached, look at the picture, easily to be pulled out for engine removal.
Dave, it must be the engineer in me to invent the wheel on my own again.
Hart

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I was told listen to the experienced wise old men by many to include Regan. It worked well for me over the years listening to those experienced. even though I thought I knew everything, I didn't and learned a trick or two from experienced and customers alike to include Jim Seamans. \\

I ask anyone who knew Jim, to pray for this funny kind gentleman who has a real battle now to face. See Farewell to JAVA.

Dave Condon

 

[texaspike]

Thanks gentlemen for the great advice. I was thinking similar to Hart when brainstorming this project, but I do like the idea of just installing an outlet that the motor can plug into on the exterior. Think I may tackle it this weekend or next, I'll try to upload pictures on the success/failure. Wire management is becoming a major issue for me on the interior after the installation of a stereo and 4 speakers. Hope this doesn't add to it.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

do motor first and worry about stereo afterwards. I will be glad to help you.

crazy dave