Hood roller furling problem

[Ken Palmer]

While cruising Lake Ontario a few weeks ago, the roller furling jammed when trying to roll the genoa in. I looked up the mast and saw that the halyard was wrapping around the fore-stay causing the problem. I was able to fix the problem by relieving some tension on the halyard. When rolling the jib in or out there would be a thunk and jerk in the furling loop every revolution.I talked with Hood and they said that the halyard swivel assembly probably needed new bearings, but it would be a difficult job for me to replace since they are all loose. They can do the job for me for about $250. They then said that I could also upgrade my loop drive assembly with a single line assembly for $575. The Hunter 33.5 is 16 years old and uses the below-deck installation used on that model. Hood tech said the bearings do wear as well as other parts in the assembly and it should be looked at.My thoughts are to send the swivel to them for repair. If that doesn't fix the problem, to replace the drive assembly for $575.My other thought is to replace the whole thing with a Harkin or other good roller furling. I haven't checked the price yet, but wonder if I should spend the extra for a new roller furling.Suggestions???

 

[cbsailor]

Test before you decide

Before you jump to any decision, remove the sail and test the swivel assy and the drive unit. It's unusual for the swivel bearings to go out before you begin to experience problems with the lower drive unit. After the sail is removed, rotate both units by hand and see if you can feel any resistance, grinding or bumping. You can also try flushing both units with fresh water while rotating. I think the procedure is outlined in the Hood owners manual. If you don't have a manual, Hood will fax it to you. I recently replaced the original 810LD drive unit with the 800SL single line drum type. It was an easy change out and works great.

 

[Bill O'Donovan]

The other problem...

...is that over time the jib slips down the wire. This throws off the dynamic of the furling because the entire mechanism is twirling instead of the device into the drum. So try pulling it up, since that may be all you need.

 

[Paul Akers]

I had both situations:

1. I upgraded from the double-line loop to the single line because the single line is a "reefer" and can be locked at any % of the sail. The double-line is only a "furler" and NOT a "reefing" head. This was a worthwhile upgrade.2. Halyard wrap occurred after the upgrade because of the angle created from the halyard to the swivel. A halyard "retainer" attached to the mast changed the angle to the swivel and the problem was eliminated.As the other poster suggested, check the swivel beforehand. The bearings should not be worn and still be OK.

 

[Warren Milberg]

I had a Hood 810

on my 1986 H28.5 when I bought it 3 yrs ago. It was original equipment. While the system worked satisfactorily, it was not a reefing system, but a furler. When I bought a 150 headsail, it was time to also buy a new reefing/furling system, too. I considered doing the Hood upgrade, but found that not cost effective for a boat I plan to keep for long time. It was sort of like "putting a new saddle on an old horse." A furling system that, as you say, has lasted 16 yrs had returned a lot of value to you. Nothing lasts forever, so my suggestion would be to bite the bullet and put on a new furling system. You won't regret it.

 

[Steve O.]

if $$ is no object...

upgrade to the Harken, but it will probably run you $2500. So maybe the Hood upgrade is looking better?I had a broken top bearing swivel once. I caused the same type of symptoms, but I suspect that the angle of your halyard is the culprit.

 

[Claude Labrecque]

Top Bearing

Ken ,Before spending the money to upgrade or change everything, anywhere between 600$ and 2500$ depending on the options, I would go up the mast and check if the Top Bearing at the extreme top of the extrusion is broken. Actually they call this a bearing but in fact it is only 2, 1/2 round plastic parts that keep the metal stay centered in the aluminium extrusion, no moving part. The part is worth 26$ and is often the source of blocking problems on this unit. I own a 35.5 and had the problem as 2 other 35.5 in my area.This part can be change in 10 minutes with the extrusion/stay assembly in place.I would also investigate in the anchor well to make sure that the 2 parts of the drum assembly are not too close together. There should be 1/16" between the 2 parts. This can be adjusted by lowering the bottom portion of the drum using the Allen screw under the furling unit.It sure is worth the trip up the mast.Good luckPS I am including the Web of pompanette with drawing showing the Top bearing

 

[Monty Miller]

Why go up the mast...

... instead of lowering the jib? The swivel is attached to the jib and will come down when the halyard is loosened and the jib is pulled out of the slot.

 

[Claude Labrecque]

There is hope

Hopefully Ken the top bearing will be your only problem and you will be able to repair for a few dollars.Keep us posted on the result of your week end investigation.

 

[Ken Palmer]

The good news and the bad news

The good news is that 1/2 of my top bearing is missing and the top luff section may have to be replaced also. No need to have the swivel rebuilt. The bad news is that my fore-stay doesn't look good. The steel wire strands have twisted the wrong way so that you no longer have a tight wrap for about an inch right below the mast/rigging junction. Looks like I will have to price out a replacement somewhere. So it looks like I wll take the mast down anyway. This is something that we can do at the yacht club for free. This will give me the opportunity to replace the steaming light fixture and use one that also has a deck light. I'll have to run another wire for the deck light, but that shouldn't be too difficult. I am also thinking about mounting my TV antenna on the mast, so I will need to run RG-59U inside the mast.Besides, we live in the north so the boat comes out of the water in a couple weeks anyway. *CryThanks go to Claude and Monte for guessing correctly.

 

[Claude Labrecque]

Look at the positive side

Ken the great news is that this trip up the mast will have at least enable you to check the stay attachement point and realized that there is a problem with the steel wire. Imagine changing everything at the bottom with a new hood replacement furler and to realize after the job is done, on your sea trail that the upper portion of the stay was not strong enough and mast is now horizontal!!!Now at least the problem is clear: You need a new stay, new top extrusion, new top bearing but not a new furler...not the same problem. Good luck.