Hood furler

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M Stockwell

I,ve heard that Hood has a replacement for the two line furling system,that came stock on the boat. Can it still be purchased? Does Hood have a web site? Thanx
 
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Mickey Goodman

I recently contacted Hood about a replacement. They will sell you a replacement drum for the furler at about $375.00 ( I don't remember the exact price). I opted not to replace this year and see how the single line furler works. You can contact Hood at 401-683-7201.
 
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Stephen Ostrander

web site

The Hood website is located at www.pompanette.com. Pompanette is their parent company.
 
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Bryan

Upgrading

I did the conversion about 6 months ago. The single line system works well. Furling is easy rather than the struggle it was getting to be. I find the drum is just large enough to furl our original 110 jib, if I had a bigger sail I'd have to use a thinner line. I never like the continuous line system, and when the bearings started to go, opted for the single line replacement (you'll need the 810, I think). If you want to DIY, most people have found it to be a relatively straightforwad. Basically, you drop the jib (check the halyard swivle which connects to the top of the jib, mine starting to bind so I had Hood rebuild it for another $150), and use the halyard to support the mast because you will be undoing the forestay. I connected the halyard to the anchor roller base. After you unlock the furler (see the instruction manual on how to do this) from the extrusion tube (the aluminum tube the sail slides into), you'll need to get the forestay halyard tight to get the tension off the forestay. You then slide the furler up the forestay, undo the forestay, slide the old furler off and slide the new one one and put it back together. . Make sure you get the installation manual from Hood when you buy. Mine did not come with one so I tried to figure it out myself, which complicated things greatly. I had a big problem because my extrusion tube was about an inch to long so I decided to cut it down an inch. In the process the forestay got jammed in the tube, and while drilling out the tube rivets, we nicked the forestay and had to get a new stud put on, which took a month cuz all the riggers were busy after a recent hurricane. I won't go into all the fun details, but it was one of those jobs where everything that could go wrong did and you chock up to a "learning experience." But really most folks don't find it to be a big problem and the replacement works nicely. Its by far the most cost effective way to upgrade to a single line system.
 
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John Irvine

Hood Replacement

I Bought mine at a Boat show. Was the Best Thing that I Could of done. The old owner Had Cut The continuous line. Please excuse the terms But I don't get to live the life yet, only April till October. But if you take the line that goes to the drum and pull back the outside so that 1/3 of the core is showing cut that off. "I know it sounds bad" Then bring the outside back down and tie this end to the drum. You'll have more than enough strengh in the line and plenty of room on the drum. John Silk Sheets
 
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Paul Akers

Bryan...

...The recommendation by Hood is to strip the first 15' of the core (inside piece) from the braided line. The outer braid will flatten out, but this will not affect performance. It will leave room for the line to coil and not jam up on the drum as it fills up.
 
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Bryan

Thanks!

Thanks for the info Paul. Just goes to show, it helps not only getting the manual but reading it too!
 
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