Hood Furler Model

[MetricMountie]

Wondering if anyone with a 1995 - 40.5 would know the model number of the Hood Furler installed on this boat. The drum is below decks unit and I'd like to pull the drum apart to change out the furling line. The stick is down so access is no issue. Any help on the disassembly or model number would be most appreciated.

 

[PAC3142]

Hi,
I have a 94 37.5 with a Hood RF unit. I don't know what the model number is, but it's shown in the picture (I go back to the survey pictures all the time!). I just took the line off last fall. If it is the same as mine, undo the three nylon screws, and the drum will drop so you can get to the stopper knot. BUT FIRST, draw a line on the lower part of the drum and aluminum tube to mark the orientation of the drum on the tube. There are several holes for the screws on the aluminum tube to let you adjust the rotation of the drum. Be careful, the plastic

screws may be difficult to get out, and access is limited. I broke the back one and had so much fun extracting it.

 

[PAC3142]

Correction: The three nylon screws (you can see two in the picture below the drum) hold the drum cover on. That will drop, not the drum itself, and you can access the stopper knot.

Paul

 

[MetricMountie]

Hi Paul
The picture you've included with the explanation is great, I do appear to have the same model and I send a million thanks for your reply. The unit on My Corona must have been down at some point in time before I bought her because nylon screws are no where in evidence. One screw is missing entirely, a second has been replaced with a stainless steel slot head screw and the third has been replace with a hexhead bolt (what size it is I have no idea). As I indicated in the post I'm changing out the furler line as the old one is shot to the point that it will no longer maintain a position in a cam cleat. Again a millions thanks, the job just got a whole lot less complicated. The Owners Association is worth its weight in gold.

Karl

 

[Apex]

I also loaded the Hood furler instructions received from Pompanette. Look in the links for this site.

 

[MetricMountie]

Thanks Apex, great stuff.

Karl

 

[DStegs49]

I have a Legend 37 and it had a Hood LD 810 converted to an SL model. I said HAD, because after having to rebuild it 3 times I gave up on it. I don't know if it was wear or what, but when furling, it wouldn't! Each time the top split ring would let go and all my little bearing buddies would head over the side. They use a mixture of SS and Torlon bearings and they are not in a retainer (so take it apart with care and in a box or something to keep them from leaving for parts unknown). Plus the PO had damaged (bent) one of the sections when it was hauled (hidden from the surveyor because the sail was furled on it). Getting harder to find parts and just not dependable so I got a Harken instead. Hood Pompanette had a trade in offer for a different model but I think that has expired. They also have the installation/owners manual online that you can download. Marty there would be more than happy to help you. Plus, if anyone needs parts for their unit, I have the drum, most of the bearings, all except one straight tubes, connectors
and an installation/owners manual for sale. Package deal, all or none, make offer. Oh, I had to replace the nylon screw (ONLY ONE- the other three are SS) first because the head was broken off when I got the boat and a second time because it joined the little bearing buddies at the bottom of the lake. Think I bought a couple extras at Lowes or Home Depot for cheap!

 

[DStegs49]

OH! The three screws in the first picture are suppose to be stainless. The nylon on is for the tack socket screw and is 1/4 20 x3/8 purchased at the big box store. Think my model was an 810LD with a factory conversion kit sent to the PO for SL Check out the measurement but remember the camera didn't wrap around the left side. I had it pretty close to the zero on the left.

 

[tjar]

I have the same furler that PAC3142 posted in his reply and I'm having a hard time removing the stainless steel cover to get to the drum. I removed the three screws from around the base, but it doesn't want to drop down. I'm reluctant to try beating on it very hard, but I suspect there is a bit of corrosion between the SS and aluminum. Does anybody have ideas for getting it loose to replace the furling line?

 

[MetricMountie]

tjar, I had the same issue with my cover after getting all the above advise on model #, etc. I sprayed the unit several times with PB Blaster and then began to tap it top and bottom with a plastic hammer. It eventually moved a bit and I applied more Blaster and tapped it again until it finally broke loose. Since I was replacing the furler line the Blaster mess wasn't and issue. After getting the unit to move, I cleaned up the Blaster and sanded the whole unit with fine paper to remove the pitting and salt residue and then re-assembled with the new line.

 

[tjar]

Thanks, MetricMountie. I will give PB Blaster a try.