I'm thinking of using Honey Teak. Does anyone have comments good or bad? I haven't liked what I've seen with Cetol. Is there some other product you've used that has worked better, or is Practical Sailor correct in their assessment of this product? Where can I buy it in Ventura County? I've seen it only on one boat and liked that. Thought it would be more readily available but haven't yet seen it at the local shops.
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Take a look at.........
Cetol Lite and Armada. IMHO there is nothing wrong with Cetol/Cetol Light. If you prep the wood correctly and apply enough coats (min. 3) a Cetol job will still look good when the vanish guys are stripping and redoing their 8-10 coats. Practical Sailor is fairly accurate in their assessment of these products.
Cetol Lite and Armada. IMHO there is nothing wrong with Cetol/Cetol Light. If you prep the wood correctly and apply enough coats (min. 3) a Cetol job will still look good when the vanish guys are stripping and redoing their 8-10 coats. Practical Sailor is fairly accurate in their assessment of these products.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
If you haven't been impressed with Cetol,
it's prob'ly because the owners didn't do a good job of prepping the teak before they applied it. It's as much work to apply the first time as varnish--the wood has to be cleaned VERY well, sanded as smooth as baby's bottom, and absolutely dry. Unfortunately, too many boat owners don't do any more than they did to use oil--throw some two step teak cleaner at the wood and that's all (worse yet, they use a stiff brush, or even a wire brush to clean the teak, which digs the soft wood out of the grain)...and they also try to rush the job...applying it before the wood is completely dry, and slapping on like oil. But when it's done right, it's not "muddy" and looks like a hand rubbed tung oil finish. Or, if you insist on a high gloss, you can put a gloss topcoat on it. It's a major job the first time...the benefits come every season afterward, when all you ever have to do is lightly "sand" with very fine bronze wool and apply another coat. I've used it on my boats for more than 10 years...wouldn't use anything else--with the POSSIBLE exception of Armada.
it's prob'ly because the owners didn't do a good job of prepping the teak before they applied it. It's as much work to apply the first time as varnish--the wood has to be cleaned VERY well, sanded as smooth as baby's bottom, and absolutely dry. Unfortunately, too many boat owners don't do any more than they did to use oil--throw some two step teak cleaner at the wood and that's all (worse yet, they use a stiff brush, or even a wire brush to clean the teak, which digs the soft wood out of the grain)...and they also try to rush the job...applying it before the wood is completely dry, and slapping on like oil. But when it's done right, it's not "muddy" and looks like a hand rubbed tung oil finish. Or, if you insist on a high gloss, you can put a gloss topcoat on it. It's a major job the first time...the benefits come every season afterward, when all you ever have to do is lightly "sand" with very fine bronze wool and apply another coat. I've used it on my boats for more than 10 years...wouldn't use anything else--with the POSSIBLE exception of Armada.
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Pete
Mine didn't come out well ...
when I tried it a couple of years ago. It lasted less than one season before it started peeling and flaking. It was disappointing, because it was expensive and took a lot of work. I can't necesarily blame the product, because it might have been me not following directions properly in the mixing or surface prep.
when I tried it a couple of years ago. It lasted less than one season before it started peeling and flaking. It was disappointing, because it was expensive and took a lot of work. I can't necesarily blame the product, because it might have been me not following directions properly in the mixing or surface prep.
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Michael McCann
Cetol
It is absolutly great stuff. I used to oil the teak, 2-3 times a season (May thru September). Now I live in the Puget Sound area, and oiling doesn't cut it. I tried varnish once, and the wood out in the weather started peeling after the winter. I used Cetol, and it lasts more than 2 winters, and like Peggie says, a light sanding, and a new coat each summer is all it takes. Mike
It is absolutly great stuff. I used to oil the teak, 2-3 times a season (May thru September). Now I live in the Puget Sound area, and oiling doesn't cut it. I tried varnish once, and the wood out in the weather started peeling after the winter. I used Cetol, and it lasts more than 2 winters, and like Peggie says, a light sanding, and a new coat each summer is all it takes. Mike
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Les Murray
Bristol Finish by C Tech
This season I refinished all my teak with a 2 part polyurethane finish called Bristol Finish. The results look like varnish but last longer and better. What I have noticed though is for the best results you really need to do a good job in the prep work (sanding and taping). Also, the instructions say you can apply all six coats wet on wet. However, I found that the best finish and results were when I sanded at least once before the final few coats. At the end of the season, some of my teak still looks great while other parts are breaking down. Generally where I applied all siz coats without sanding are where my problems are. I would recommend Bristol Finish, but expect to put more work into it than what the instructions say (more sanding between coats). Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
This season I refinished all my teak with a 2 part polyurethane finish called Bristol Finish. The results look like varnish but last longer and better. What I have noticed though is for the best results you really need to do a good job in the prep work (sanding and taping). Also, the instructions say you can apply all six coats wet on wet. However, I found that the best finish and results were when I sanded at least once before the final few coats. At the end of the season, some of my teak still looks great while other parts are breaking down. Generally where I applied all siz coats without sanding are where my problems are. I would recommend Bristol Finish, but expect to put more work into it than what the instructions say (more sanding between coats). Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
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