Honda BF2 outboard fuel problem

[Hayden Watson]

I am leaving on a cruise in a couple of days and got the 2-hp Honda out to move to the boat. It ran fine during our May cruise but now it starts on the first pull then immediately dies. There is fuel in the tank, the vent is open, the fuel shutoff is open but no fuel makes it to the carburetor. I removed the bowl drain and nada.

Any Ideas where to chase the blockage? I even tried blowing on the fill spout to pressurize the tank and nothing.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Did I mention that this is an ancient Honda (prior to 1998 when I purchased Papillon.) One of the really old ones that do not have a clutch and are always in gear. pull and take off at idle. The only way to stop is to kill the engine.

I pulled and cleaned the tank and made sure that the fuel filter that is in the tank end of the fuel line was not plugged because that has caused me problems in the past. I also pulled the bowl nut / drain needle valve. The ports in the needle valve drain were plugged which I cleaned. I can now open the fuel valve and get fuel to come out the drain so fuel is making it to the carburetor.

Now I can get it to start and run but only on full choke. If I open the choke at all, it dies no mater what rpm I am running at.

That sounds to me like the primary jet is plugged. Easy right? Not so much. On this old Honda, the bowl and all of the carb is blocked by the lower housing and I cannot see how to remove it. It looks like the engine might need to be completely removed from the housing to gain access.

Here is a photo of the serial number plate. the number is BAES 1222809


Here is a photo of the carb covered by the housing.


looking from the side. It looks like if the light gray cover below the fuel cutoff was removed, you could get to the carb mounting bolts. The problem is that I cannot see anything that is attaching it to the engine.


Here is a view looking up at the bottom. I have removed the black guard but the hole above is too small to remove the bowl with the light gray cover above.

 

[danooxnard]

I have the same engine. You have to remove the plastic top cover and bottom plastic Piece. You can then get to the carb bolts. When you remove the carb try not to damage the gasket, last time I looked two years ago it was not available. You can buy a new carb still for around $80 if cleaning does not work. Try not to strip out the acorn nuts holding the carb to the motor since that plate is also unavailable. If you can remove the main Jet you can clean out the orifice it screws into. I had lots of rust and build up in mine.
If you decide to change the impeller and seals know that you have to drop the whole lower unit to get out a retaining pin that holds the output shaft to the lower unit.
good luck Dano

 

[Hayden Watson]

I have the same engine. You have to remove the plastic top cover and bottom plastic Piece. You can then get to the carb bolts. When you remove the carb try not to damage the gasket, last time I looked two years ago it was not available. You can buy a new carb still for around $80 if cleaning does not work. Try not to strip out the acorn nuts holding the carb to the motor since that plate is also unavailable. If you can remove the main Jet you can clean out the orifice it screws into. I had lots of rust and build up in mine.
If you decide to change the impeller and seals know that you have to drop the whole lower unit to get out a retaining pin that holds the output shaft to the lower unit.
good luck Dano

Which bottom plactic piece do you mean. I see a black on that is connected with 4 screws and two machine bolts but removing that does not get to the carb. It does get to a hole in the bottom of the metal lower half housing but it is too small to allow the bowl to drop through.


If you mean the light gray part that has the "on" "off" printed on it, how do you remove it. I removed every screw that was near it and it does not budge. I do not want to break it because I am sure that it is made from pure Unobtainium.

 

[MikeHoncho]

if a carb engine only runs on choke, partial choke or added fuel into the venturi that is either a plugged primary jet (probable) or an air leak in the intake side of the engine. I'd pull the carb and do a full carb clean: leave the mixture needles but pull the jets and needle valve for the float. Clean with carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air. Dump the gas out of the tank and use fresh.

 

[Hayden Watson]

if a carb engine only runs on choke, partial choke or added fuel into the venturi that is either a plugged primary jet (probable) or an air leak in the intake side of the engine. I'd pull the carb and do a full carb clean: leave the mixture needles but pull the jets and needle valve for the float. Clean with carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air. Dump the gas out of the tank and use fresh.

I am certain that it is the main jet, but the problem is that none of the carb mounting bolts are exposed so I cannot figure out how to remove the carb. If could remove the bowl, I would be able to remove the jet but the hole in the bottom of the lower housing is smaller diameter than the bowl. I suspect that the light gray piece that has on/off printed on it needs to be removed but no connections can be found, and it doesn't move.

 

[danooxnard]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you I was at work. Yes you need to remove the lower plastic or metal on the bottom of the motor. It has two small bolts and two phillips head screws holding it on. They may be frozen to the case. One of mine snapped when i removed it. It took mild heat and some beeswax to get out the broken part. They are common 6mm bolts if the break. The plastic part with the fuel on off lever comes off to. Along with the botton plastic that forms a ring around the motor. Then you can access the carb for removal.
Dano

 

[Hayden Watson]

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View attachment 217759

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you I was at work. Yes you need to remove the lower plastic or metal on the bottom of the motor. It has two small bolts and two phillips head screws holding it on. They may be frozen to the case. One of mine snapped when i removed it. It took mild heat and some beeswax to get out the broken part. They are common 6mm bolts if the break. The plastic part with the fuel on off lever comes off to. Along with the botton plastic that forms a ring around the motor. Then you can access the carb for removal.
Dano

Is part #7 the part that needs to be reomved? Do you need to take off the recoil to get it off? I can't realy tell what holds it on.

 

[danooxnard]

Yes #7 needs to come off the recoil, and fuel tank too. Then remove the two bolts that hold #7 in place. One of my bolt snapped on removal so I only have one. The pics show the bolts to remove. One is just the mounting hole

 

[Hayden Watson]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you I was at work. Yes you need to remove the lower plastic or metal on the bottom of the motor. It has two small bolts and two phillips head screws holding it on. They may be frozen to the case. One of mine snapped when i removed it. It took mild heat and some beeswax to get out the broken part. They are common 6mm bolts if the break. The plastic part with the fuel on off lever comes off to. Along with the botton plastic that forms a ring around the motor. Then you can access the carb for removal.
Dano

We have Varoom!
Thanks for the help. Heading to the boat in the morning and only lost one day of my two-week solo criuse.

 

[danooxnard]

Awesome glad to help! Have a great rest of your trip. Dano