Honda 9.9

[Deucer]

Just a little community knowledge for those with Honda 9.9's (which we have on our H260).
Our water impeller imploded causing the engine to overheat. Luckily, the engine will still crank and start. Ordered the engine manual and tried to disassemble the lower half IAW their directions. Of course, nothing ever works as the manual says. There's a upper and lower half of the shift linkage you have to disassemble to get the lower half off. Sailing mostly in salt water, the coupling was corroded to the extent that it would not loosen from the upper shift linkage rod. I ended up cutting the lower rod to separate the engine.

The impeller not only disintegrated, but melted into the water pump housing. Looks like I'll have to buy a new housing. Upon further examination, it looks like the water tube going to up the extension has something blocking it. I had to leave it there for now. I'm going to take the lower end to the shop to have them replace the lower shift rod. I'm probably going to have to remove the upper shift rod to get the linkage bolt loose....sigh...

I'll post an update if I get it to work...

 

[owner23.5]

what year is that motor? brother has one hanging on a rack he took on trade honda 9.9 believe its a 2003 if it doesnt work out labor bill wise I'll see what he's asking for it. I kicked the thought of around as I cant remember the price but it was reasonable for the motor .

 

[soling42]

The blockage in the tube is probably the pieces of your old impeller. I dismantle/check mine every off-season and replace it every 2nd year at the latest. Lost one(no fins were left) in an old Honda OB on our last boat that I had to run hot for over an hour off/on but it was fine after replacement.
Good luck, mike

 

[Deucer]

think it's a 2006. Mike, thanks for the words of encouragement. Trying to find some place to replace the shift rod. I think I can do the rest myself. I'm encouraged that it still runs, so hopefully, a couple hundred and I'm back sailing....sigh...admiral is not happy with our ability to get under sail (loves the sailing...hates the never ending issues...sigh)

 

[Manny]

lower end...

You can probably replace the lower shift rod yourself, there's not much to the lower end. Here's the shift rod and drive shaft assembly from an extra long shaft, don't ask why I had to take it apart :cussing::cry::cussing:
If memory serves you take the prop off, remove the two bolts holding the carrier, and gently pry the carrier away from the lower end body. Once it is out you have to remove the circlip holding the gear at the end of the driveshaft, patience is key... Then you can undo the bolts at the top of the lower end to pull that whole assembly off. Oh yeah - don't forget to drain the oil first...

M

 

[owner23.5]

Well wish the best with the repair. I'd NEVER get one apart and back together. I did talk to my brother this morning he said the one he has is a 2006 honda long shaft 9.9 but he just sold it last night .Said he got 1,300 for it they are a nice looking motor

 

[soling42]

"Issues" are only sailing adventures in disguise. I know my Admiral will stick with me as long as I look like I'm not stressin'. Broken stuff on the water can lead to stress so I do my best to keep up with the maintenance and try to anticipate that the "adventures" are kept to a minimum.

I'm sure you can order a shift rod on-line or find a Honda OB rep nearby to do the work if that'll fix your problem. As a caution I'd try to get a compression test on the cylinders before I got too far into it. Soak those sticky shift rod fasteners(and others) with PB blaster and gently work them loose over a few days. I'm surprised it was so corroded. Do you rinse your motor with fresh water after every use?

Pull the thermostat to clear any funky debris and while it's off dislodge the impeller debris with a small wire inserted up the pickup tube and suck it out with a shop vac.

My off season maintenance list gets longer as the boat ages. My lower unit also seemed to be making odd noises in late May just before I pulled it out for the Summer so I have a feeling I'll be in your shoes with lower unit repairs soon. Mannys pic makes it look pretty straight forward(as I'm sure it is) so I'll be pulling mine apart for inspection/o-rings/seals/gaskets/impeller if nothing else in the next few weeks.

Also whacked my centerboard and rudder last season so they come back off for ding repair too. The Adventures continue

Getting closer to broiling temps down here. Glad it's in the shop.
Mike

 

[Deucer]

Re: lower end...

Manny, is the upper rod left hand threads? The Helms official manual sucks. For everybody who's responded, thanks a million. I'm so much wiser due to this forum.

Update: I took the lower end to a local place in Shreveport (where I work during the week) to replace the lower rod and water pump. I'll pick up the parts to pull the thermostat to make sure the rest of the water passages are clear. Mike, I haven't been as religious about cleaning the motor exterior as I should be. But, in my defense, the rod was only corroded on the threads and you can hardly see the rod to begin with.

 

[Manny]

Manny, is the upper rod left hand threads? The Helms official manual sucks. For everybody who's responded, thanks a million. I'm so much wiser due to this forum.

I don't know what the technical term is but the there is a "bolt" on the upper rod that is free spinning. The rod must have be flanged inside the bolt or something similar. I wasn't sure of the thread direction so I posted the picture of the end of the lower rod.

Hope this helps.

M

 

[Manny]

I'm surprised it was so corroded. Do you rinse your motor with fresh water after every use?

Mike,

I'm not surprised that he's got corrosion issues... These are pics of my lower end... after it's second season (next to the replacement parts for comparison). First season in fresh water, second in lightly brackish water. Yes the motor is raised out of the water after use and is flushed with the hose adapter and I also rinse the exterior. My Honda shop couldn't believe it when they saw it and talked to Honda to try and get me replacements under warranty. Honda's response... "It was left in the water".

M

 

[soling42]

Manny,
GOOD GRIEF, only 2 seasons! That's some kinda corrosion issue going on there. I'd guess that the zincs were totally fried and whatever ate them up then quickly went after your lower unit. Galvanic corrosion on that scale is caused by some major action happening on a grand scale. I can see where Honda had some hesitation in covering that as a warranty issue.

I've never seen anything that serious in only 2yrs. My Yamaha 8hp is 6y/o at a saltwater dock for 9mths a year but well rinsed after each use and tilted out of the water, then on the trailer in the shop for 3mths during the broiling season down here and it looks like new.

If your boat's in a marina then there may be a neighbor with serious electrical problems or issues coming from a poorly built/maintained dock electrical system slowly cooking everything near it. Otherwise a shore power or grounding connection might have problems on-board. Hope your new one lasts longer and that you keep fresh zincs on it. Even zincs that look fine can be rendered useless if they have insulated themselves with a powdery layer of corrosion from behind.

WOW, Mike

 

[kloudie1]

Is that a submersion line/watermark close to the top of the water intake?? The Zinc is under the anti-cav plate and it would not have been in the water if that part of the skeg remains in when the motor mount is raised but the motor is not tilted.. Even so, there is something going on in your area with electrolysis.. that is a lot of damage..

 

[Quoddy]

Impeller problem

We have a H260 with a Honda 9.9 2005. Do you have any idea of how many hours your motor ran before the impeller melt down?
Does anyone know if it is hours or age that gets them? I think the manual says inspect at 200 hrs. It’s not exactly something you can easily inspect. Can you tell if it is going bad by the telltale water stream being reduced or heating up? Maybe they just fatigue and fly apart without warning. Too bad you had to cut to get it apart, was the fitting in a position were we could lube it regularly now we know it can freeze?

 

[isaksp00]

Re: Impeller problem

You may want to ask the experts on an outboard forum like iboats.com.

I am not sure, but my understanding is that it's both age and hours. If they sit unused (dry) for a long time, the rubber can develop cracks and the blades might come loose. If you run it dry, the heat destroys them fairly quickly. Those outboard forum experts tend to say they replace the impeller every 2 yrs. I did mine a few months ago (I don't know how long prior owner had left it) and one blade did have a crack at its base. Evidently if they disintegrate bits of rubber can clog the cooling passages in the engine block - a much tougher repair.

If the 9.9 is like my Honda 8, it isn't too hard. I removed the cotter pin and clevis pin holding the top of the shift arm to the shift lever, but did not remove the fitting at the top of the arm - it is hard to reach to unscrew. That let me pull the lower unit down maybe 8 inches, enough to remove the impeller housing. I intend to do it every 2 yrs, and if the impeller looks fine, leave it. Opening the lower unit would help ensure it doesn't get too corroded, making it a bear to eventually remove, even if no new impeller is needed.

 

[Deucer]

Picking up the lower end from the repair shop tomorrow. New shift rod, new water pump housing and impeller and oil change in lower unit...$369..och..but I know parts are probably over $200. Thought about doing the lower rod myself, but read too many horror stories about the rod not coming out. It's a saltwater motor and corrosion is an issue.

Tried to free the connecting nut last weekend and after a lot of Liquid Wrench and heating the part I manage to twist the nut off the upper shift rod. Put the stub in a vice and tried to free the rod stub, but no luck. Corroded in fast. So, ordered an new upper shaft (which is a PAIN to get off without disconnecting a lot of electrics) and while I was at it, a new thermostat. Pulled thermostat off to see if I could detect any blockages. Don't think there are any, but going to do a more thorough examine this weekend.

Plan on using a marine anti-seize on all bolts on reassembly. Will up date the post when I'm done. Learning a lot and expect the final repair to be around $500...sigh...

 

[soling42]

Ahh yes, it's the proverbial hole in the water syndrome that we've all suffered from.

If you had fresh zincs on your motor and a very big zinc that could be attached to the metal on your boat with a clip and hung overboard while at the dock it'd at least die before your lower unit gets so corroded. Also taking it apart as regular annual maintenance will keep you out of trouble too.

I always say, it's better to break down at home or the dock than at sea and maintenance is always cheaper than a breakdown too. let us know how it goes and have a great season. Mike

 

[Deucer]

OK, update. Got the foot reinstalled. And yes, the upper shift rod (Rod A) is a left hand thread. And it's darn picky about adjustment. If anybody ever needs the specs, I've got them in the manual. It's almost impossible to do by eyeballing it. I did use Permatex Anti-seize, so hopefully I won't have the same problem next time I have to remove the foot.

But alas, now I'm back to the carburetor issue again. I seem to have multiple air leaks causing it to run too lean. Since I only have access to the boat on the weekends, I can't run down to the Honda Marine dealer to buy parts, unless I discover what I need between 0800-1200 on Saturday...sigh. So, I fashioned a restrictor plate to get it running enough to get the boat out of the slip and to the trailer. No more sailing until after Labor Day. Got new carb gaskets on order. The Admiral is getting tired of being a sailboat owner and would rather spend more time being a sailor.....sigh....