I have a ruptured holding tank in my Vision 32. Is a ridged tank the best route to go and want it be very difficult to replace? I am told the area is very tight to work in by those who have tried to repair the tank without success. Any suggestions?
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Robert, It Depends
I had the model that had the holding tank in the stern, under the 'swim step'. It was a monster to get out. The tank will not come out without cutting. Once you have made that determination, the best bet is to buy a small grider with a carbide disk. I used a roto-zip with an attachment. A saber saw will not work since the aluminum is too thin. As to repair, it is at best temporary. I used epoxy and glass fiber. Worked for one year. Did it again, same story. Then used an aluminum 'L' piece from home depot. Used Dow 5200 to adhere it to the tank. Worked great until another seam went out two years later. Then, the tank came out and two six gallon poly tanks went back in siamesed. Good luck, Rick D.
I had the model that had the holding tank in the stern, under the 'swim step'. It was a monster to get out. The tank will not come out without cutting. Once you have made that determination, the best bet is to buy a small grider with a carbide disk. I used a roto-zip with an attachment. A saber saw will not work since the aluminum is too thin. As to repair, it is at best temporary. I used epoxy and glass fiber. Worked for one year. Did it again, same story. Then used an aluminum 'L' piece from home depot. Used Dow 5200 to adhere it to the tank. Worked great until another seam went out two years later. Then, the tank came out and two six gallon poly tanks went back in siamesed. Good luck, Rick D.
A rigid tank is the ONLY way to go
I strongly recommend that you also find another location for it that shortens the head discharge hose to the tank...ideally, within 6' of the toilet. Much longer than that, and it's just about impossible keep from leaving waste sitting in the hose to permeate it. And, in the future, You might want to pay just a little more attention to your holding tank vent--making sure that it doesn't become blocked. 'Cuz that's what ruptured your tank. If continuing to flush the toilet against increasing back pressure didn't do it (fortunately Hunter OEM tanks are pretty flimsy...'cuz when the pressure reaches "critical mass," it has to go somewhere...if the tank is to strong to crack, the only other place it has to go is back up the head discharge hose into the head, creating new appreciation for the expression "Thar she blows!") a pumpout pulling a vacuum imploded it.
I strongly recommend that you also find another location for it that shortens the head discharge hose to the tank...ideally, within 6' of the toilet. Much longer than that, and it's just about impossible keep from leaving waste sitting in the hose to permeate it. And, in the future, You might want to pay just a little more attention to your holding tank vent--making sure that it doesn't become blocked. 'Cuz that's what ruptured your tank. If continuing to flush the toilet against increasing back pressure didn't do it (fortunately Hunter OEM tanks are pretty flimsy...'cuz when the pressure reaches "critical mass," it has to go somewhere...if the tank is to strong to crack, the only other place it has to go is back up the head discharge hose into the head, creating new appreciation for the expression "Thar she blows!") a pumpout pulling a vacuum imploded it.
Holding tank nightmare
Bob, If your tank is under the seat in the head you are experiencing what I have dreding for years. It has not happened to me yet but I'm sure it will in time. There is no way to get the tank out without cutting. My plan is to cut the front of the seat area out and pull the tank thru the hole and replace the tank with a Lectra/San Type 1 system. I would cover the hole with a access hatch (Tempress) maybe special order depends on how big a hole. If you end up taking the tank out please take some pictures and post them on this site. Good Luck and keep in touch. Jim
Bob, If your tank is under the seat in the head you are experiencing what I have dreding for years. It has not happened to me yet but I'm sure it will in time. There is no way to get the tank out without cutting. My plan is to cut the front of the seat area out and pull the tank thru the hole and replace the tank with a Lectra/San Type 1 system. I would cover the hole with a access hatch (Tempress) maybe special order depends on how big a hole. If you end up taking the tank out please take some pictures and post them on this site. Good Luck and keep in touch. Jim
Why special order a hatch?
Why not just make one? A formica or teak veneer (depending upon whether your boat has any wood) on a piece of marine plywood, hinged, with a latch can't be THAT hard to make.
Why not just make one? A formica or teak veneer (depending upon whether your boat has any wood) on a piece of marine plywood, hinged, with a latch can't be THAT hard to make.
Hatching a response
You may or may not need a special order hatch, depends on the hole. But since I use the shower seat I want something to be atleast water resisitant so the area stays dry. If you don't put a Type 1 system in the area it still would be functional for dry storage. Jim
You may or may not need a special order hatch, depends on the hole. But since I use the shower seat I want something to be atleast water resisitant so the area stays dry. If you don't put a Type 1 system in the area it still would be functional for dry storage. Jim
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