We purchased a 1997 Hunter 310 last summer and have been plagued with odors coming from the head holding tank. We can find no leaks, there are no problems with the hoses and we put Odorless brand conditioner in the tank with every pumpout. Any suggestions to clear up this stinky problem would be appreciated.
- Status
Odor inside the boat can't be from inside the tank
Unless the tank is leaking, odor from inside the tank has no place to go but out the tank vent. So if you have odor inside the boat, it won't matter what you use in the tank, or how often you pump out, it won't help...'cuz the source is inside the boat, not inside the tank. Permeated sanitation hoses, and dirty bilges and sumps are the most likely sources of odor on a boat. You say there are no problems with the hoses...does that mean you can't see anything wrong, or you've eliminated odor permeation as a possible culprit? Wet dirty bilges and sumps can make a boat smell like a swamp or a sewer...when, if ever, have you really CLEANED 'em (as opposed to just dumping in more bilge cleaner and/or bleach)? I think you'll find all the help you need to get rid of the odor and then keep your boat smelling fresh and clean at the link below.
Unless the tank is leaking, odor from inside the tank has no place to go but out the tank vent. So if you have odor inside the boat, it won't matter what you use in the tank, or how often you pump out, it won't help...'cuz the source is inside the boat, not inside the tank. Permeated sanitation hoses, and dirty bilges and sumps are the most likely sources of odor on a boat. You say there are no problems with the hoses...does that mean you can't see anything wrong, or you've eliminated odor permeation as a possible culprit? Wet dirty bilges and sumps can make a boat smell like a swamp or a sewer...when, if ever, have you really CLEANED 'em (as opposed to just dumping in more bilge cleaner and/or bleach)? I think you'll find all the help you need to get rid of the odor and then keep your boat smelling fresh and clean at the link below.
Afterthought
I recommend keeping the bilge squeaky clean. Also dry it out with a sponge every week. By reducing the source, you reduce incidences. We have all learned from Peggy's experience.
I recommend keeping the bilge squeaky clean. Also dry it out with a sponge every week. By reducing the source, you reduce incidences. We have all learned from Peggy's experience.
Flush with fresh water
Keep a large cup in the bathroom. Everytime you go use fresh water from the sink to flush. Before you start pump out good, flush the holding tank with fresh water and repeat. Then do it again and again and again!
Keep a large cup in the bathroom. Everytime you go use fresh water from the sink to flush. Before you start pump out good, flush the holding tank with fresh water and repeat. Then do it again and again and again!
Ok if toilet is manual, bad idea if toilet is macerating electric
Most raw water macerating electric toilets have integral intake pumps...iow, the intake pump runs when the head is flushed whether the seacock is open or not. Running it dry, with no water coming in not only fries the intake impeller, but also damages the intake pump housing. The toilet will not work when the seacock is opened, but will allow the bowl to flood with water and even overflow if the bowl is below the waterline. Intake seawater odor is a result of sea water left standing in the intake hose to stagnate while you're away from the boat. There's a simple cure for it that doesn't require messing with cups or a shower head: tee the head sink drain into the head intake hose. Flush normally with sea water until ready to close up the boat, then close the head intake seacock and fill the sink with clean fresh water...flush the toilet. Because the intake seacock is closed, the toilet will pull the water out of the sink, rinsing all the seawater out of the whole system--intake hose, channel in the rim of the bowl AND the head discharge hose. It is necessary to keep the sink plugged except when it's in use...otherwise the toilet will pull air through the sink and can't prime.
Most raw water macerating electric toilets have integral intake pumps...iow, the intake pump runs when the head is flushed whether the seacock is open or not. Running it dry, with no water coming in not only fries the intake impeller, but also damages the intake pump housing. The toilet will not work when the seacock is opened, but will allow the bowl to flood with water and even overflow if the bowl is below the waterline. Intake seawater odor is a result of sea water left standing in the intake hose to stagnate while you're away from the boat. There's a simple cure for it that doesn't require messing with cups or a shower head: tee the head sink drain into the head intake hose. Flush normally with sea water until ready to close up the boat, then close the head intake seacock and fill the sink with clean fresh water...flush the toilet. Because the intake seacock is closed, the toilet will pull the water out of the sink, rinsing all the seawater out of the whole system--intake hose, channel in the rim of the bowl AND the head discharge hose. It is necessary to keep the sink plugged except when it's in use...otherwise the toilet will pull air through the sink and can't prime.
- Status