Well, I have just determined the lifespan of a Hunter 35.5 aluminum holding tank this week. My 1995 tank has reached the end of the line. Noticed a small amount of water under the aft bunk last week. Friday I opened the bulkhead cutout that I put in last year. To my horror, the tank was sitting in a pool of you know what. After a messy day and a half, the old tank and the lines are out. Everything has been disinfected inside the boat and the new tank is on order. Fun, Fun, Fun.
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at least you caught it before the heat set in.
Jim: At least you caught this before the heat of the summer set in. It's a lot easier to swap these out when the weather is cool. It also keeps the bacteria growth at a minimum too. What are you doing for the new tank?
Jim: At least you caught this before the heat of the summer set in. It's a lot easier to swap these out when the weather is cool. It also keeps the bacteria growth at a minimum too. What are you doing for the new tank?
Hi Jim, we lived in Texas (Euless) for ten years..
I can imagine replacing the tank during the months of July and/or August. Terry
I can imagine replacing the tank during the months of July and/or August. Terry
Before installing a new tank
"Disinfecting" rarely if ever actually gets rid of all the odor-producing spores...they're just waiting for hot weather to let you know that. To be 100% certain that you won't have any odor when th weather warms up, THOROUGHLY saturate the whole are with Raritan K.O. Don't rinse...let it dry, leaving everything open so that plenty of air can circulate in it for at least 24 hours. Bring in a fan if you can. You're gonna replace all your hoses at the same time, right? This is the best time to do it...'cuz even if they don't need it now, they almost certainly will--long before you want to take anything apart again to do it. IMO, replacing a tank without replacing the hoses is tantamount to getting dressed up for a party without taking a bath. Get it ALL done at once, then forget it for at least another 10 years. Your aluminum tank actually beat the odds. Typically, they start to leak at a welded seam or fitting within 2-5 years...you got 8 years out of it.
"Disinfecting" rarely if ever actually gets rid of all the odor-producing spores...they're just waiting for hot weather to let you know that. To be 100% certain that you won't have any odor when th weather warms up, THOROUGHLY saturate the whole are with Raritan K.O. Don't rinse...let it dry, leaving everything open so that plenty of air can circulate in it for at least 24 hours. Bring in a fan if you can. You're gonna replace all your hoses at the same time, right? This is the best time to do it...'cuz even if they don't need it now, they almost certainly will--long before you want to take anything apart again to do it. IMO, replacing a tank without replacing the hoses is tantamount to getting dressed up for a party without taking a bath. Get it ALL done at once, then forget it for at least another 10 years. Your aluminum tank actually beat the odds. Typically, they start to leak at a welded seam or fitting within 2-5 years...you got 8 years out of it.
Avoid holding tanks, period
So the best we can expect from conventional holding tanks is to turn the botom of our boats into open Cespools every 2 to 4 years right???? Well I've done this twice in the last two years due to poor aluminum weld joints. On top of this we get to look forward to searching for pump-out stations at "just the right time" when our tanks fill up. Then we get to smell fouled hoses running throughout our boats during the heat of July and August unless we face the impossible task of replacing these hoses every couple years (on a P42 it's impossible to replace the forward hose, PERIOD). Now you know why I'm ready to try something NEWto avoid ALL THIS MESS. Check out WWW.AIRHEADTOILET.COM I know we had a long debate on this a couple of months ago, but emptying a couple of gallons of urine every weekend and virtually forgetting about the solid waste component of our bodily functions sounds like a little bit of heaven to me. AND, KNOWING THAT I"LL NEVER BE TURNING THE THE BOTTOM OF MY PRECIUOS YACHT INTO A SEWER-WASTE DUMP AGAIN, after the next weld joint breaks, and knowing I'll not be smelling crappy smelling hoses fumigating my boat in July and August again, make this new system well worth a try to me !!!!!
So the best we can expect from conventional holding tanks is to turn the botom of our boats into open Cespools every 2 to 4 years right???? Well I've done this twice in the last two years due to poor aluminum weld joints. On top of this we get to look forward to searching for pump-out stations at "just the right time" when our tanks fill up. Then we get to smell fouled hoses running throughout our boats during the heat of July and August unless we face the impossible task of replacing these hoses every couple years (on a P42 it's impossible to replace the forward hose, PERIOD). Now you know why I'm ready to try something NEWto avoid ALL THIS MESS. Check out WWW.AIRHEADTOILET.COM I know we had a long debate on this a couple of months ago, but emptying a couple of gallons of urine every weekend and virtually forgetting about the solid waste component of our bodily functions sounds like a little bit of heaven to me. AND, KNOWING THAT I"LL NEVER BE TURNING THE THE BOTTOM OF MY PRECIUOS YACHT INTO A SEWER-WASTE DUMP AGAIN, after the next weld joint breaks, and knowing I'll not be smelling crappy smelling hoses fumigating my boat in July and August again, make this new system well worth a try to me !!!!!
Hi Peggy
Had to saw the old hoses apart as they were welded to the old tank. Everything is out. Will take some of my K.O. and do what you said. I was pouring a weak Clorax solution down the holes to try to kill everything. Have order a Ronco B250 tank. This will double my capacity. May be in Little Rock the week of April 1 on business. Can I call you? Jim
Had to saw the old hoses apart as they were welded to the old tank. Everything is out. Will take some of my K.O. and do what you said. I was pouring a weak Clorax solution down the holes to try to kill everything. Have order a Ronco B250 tank. This will double my capacity. May be in Little Rock the week of April 1 on business. Can I call you? Jim
Make certain it will fit in your head
It's considerably bigger than any marine toilet. Or, since the Bay is not "no discharge," for about the same price, you could keep your toilet and install a Lectra/San (CG certified Type I MSD that treats urine and solids and discharges them overboard) and never have anything to carry off the boat or empty. Check it out on the Raritan website (link below) before making any irreversable decisions.
It's considerably bigger than any marine toilet. Or, since the Bay is not "no discharge," for about the same price, you could keep your toilet and install a Lectra/San (CG certified Type I MSD that treats urine and solids and discharges them overboard) and never have anything to carry off the boat or empty. Check it out on the Raritan website (link below) before making any irreversable decisions.
Lectra/San installation
Peggy, Looked at the instructions for installing a Purasan (think we need that for the brackish water of the Cheasapeake Bay). It says the head discharge has to be above the level of the Purasan discharge which is 11 inches high. Most modern boats have flat bilges and the head discharge is about 3 inches above the deck. How do we solve the problem of the head discharge lower than the Purasan discharge? thanks, DJ
Peggy, Looked at the instructions for installing a Purasan (think we need that for the brackish water of the Cheasapeake Bay). It says the head discharge has to be above the level of the Purasan discharge which is 11 inches high. Most modern boats have flat bilges and the head discharge is about 3 inches above the deck. How do we solve the problem of the head discharge lower than the Purasan discharge? thanks, DJ
PuraSan not the right choice for you
For one thing, you've already discovered why it won't work on your boat...for another it's only certified for use with only 3 toilets, all Raritan electrics--their Crown Head, Crown II and the Atlantes...NO others. It was designed primarily for use on houseboats on inland lakes and rivers. What you really need is a Lectra/San plus one of the optional salt tanks. My preference is for one of the 4 gallon models that uses rock salt. The Lectra/San has to be within 6' of the toilet and sit on a surface that's at or below the same level as the toilet because waste enters the unit near the bottom of the first chamber and is discharged by overflowing out the top of the second chamber.
For one thing, you've already discovered why it won't work on your boat...for another it's only certified for use with only 3 toilets, all Raritan electrics--their Crown Head, Crown II and the Atlantes...NO others. It was designed primarily for use on houseboats on inland lakes and rivers. What you really need is a Lectra/San plus one of the optional salt tanks. My preference is for one of the 4 gallon models that uses rock salt. The Lectra/San has to be within 6' of the toilet and sit on a surface that's at or below the same level as the toilet because waste enters the unit near the bottom of the first chamber and is discharged by overflowing out the top of the second chamber.
Do all Hunters have aluminum tanks? Alternatives?
Getting new H 410 delivered soon. Do they all have aluminum tanks? If so, should you plan on replacing it by the 3rd or 4th winter to avoid this mess, and if so upgrade to what?? Thanks, Peggy.
Getting new H 410 delivered soon. Do they all have aluminum tanks? If so, should you plan on replacing it by the 3rd or 4th winter to avoid this mess, and if so upgrade to what?? Thanks, Peggy.
6-12 year life.
Gary: If you read any specs from most mfg. they have the right to change their specs. at will. Typically you will get whatever they are delivering at the time. I would just monitor your systems over the next few years and type to do your do diligence of keeping your system as clean and trouble free as possible. You are keying on the tank but the hoses are probably going to be a problem before your tank gives out (if it is aluminum).
Gary: If you read any specs from most mfg. they have the right to change their specs. at will. Typically you will get whatever they are delivering at the time. I would just monitor your systems over the next few years and type to do your do diligence of keeping your system as clean and trouble free as possible. You are keying on the tank but the hoses are probably going to be a problem before your tank gives out (if it is aluminum).
Holding tanks now plastic
It's my understanding that Hunter began phasing out aluminum holding tank in favor of plastic tanks in 1991 and had completely switched over within a couple of years. All their current boats should have plastic holding tanks. So as long as you don't let the vent become blocked so that the tank becomes pressurized or imploded by a strong pumpout, your holding tank should last for at least a couple of decades.
It's my understanding that Hunter began phasing out aluminum holding tank in favor of plastic tanks in 1991 and had completely switched over within a couple of years. All their current boats should have plastic holding tanks. So as long as you don't let the vent become blocked so that the tank becomes pressurized or imploded by a strong pumpout, your holding tank should last for at least a couple of decades.
My '88 H-35 Has all "Plastic" Tanks
For information, in the late '80s Hunter was using all plastic tanks. Our Hunter 35 has plastic water, waste, and fuel tanks. This model was built from 1986 thru 1988 and it is likely that all boats in this series have the same type tanks. In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if other Hunter models in this time frame also have plastic tanks. For what it's worth, I have had absolutely no problems with the tanks. Being able to see the approximate liquid level through the tank has been really handy. Sometimes, depending on lighting conditions, I need the assist of a flashlight, or better yet, my spotlight, (more candlepower!!) to see better though.
For information, in the late '80s Hunter was using all plastic tanks. Our Hunter 35 has plastic water, waste, and fuel tanks. This model was built from 1986 thru 1988 and it is likely that all boats in this series have the same type tanks. In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if other Hunter models in this time frame also have plastic tanks. For what it's worth, I have had absolutely no problems with the tanks. Being able to see the approximate liquid level through the tank has been really handy. Sometimes, depending on lighting conditions, I need the assist of a flashlight, or better yet, my spotlight, (more candlepower!!) to see better though.
Peggie
I am redoing my head set up and am following your comments about the Lectra/San with interest. I need to know however, where it can be used legally. I am in the Chesapeake Bay and also Long Island Sound and Buzzards Bay. Can that be used in those areas? Do I need a holding tank on board as well? Does the arrangement need a pump to pump out or is that part of the system? and is there a need for a vented loop before discharging through the seacock or can it be connected directly? Thanks.
I am redoing my head set up and am following your comments about the Lectra/San with interest. I need to know however, where it can be used legally. I am in the Chesapeake Bay and also Long Island Sound and Buzzards Bay. Can that be used in those areas? Do I need a holding tank on board as well? Does the arrangement need a pump to pump out or is that part of the system? and is there a need for a vented loop before discharging through the seacock or can it be connected directly? Thanks.
Lectra/San is legal in Chesapeake, LI Sound
I believe, however, that Buzzards Bay is "no discharge"....so you'd have use a holding tank there. You'd put a y-valve in the head discharge line that would allow you to choose between going through the Lectra/San into the tank. The tank would be emptied like any other tank...it cannot be processed through the Lectra/San. I think the rest of your questions will be answered if you spend some time reading the Lectra/San specs and manual on the Raritan website (link below).
I believe, however, that Buzzards Bay is "no discharge"....so you'd have use a holding tank there. You'd put a y-valve in the head discharge line that would allow you to choose between going through the Lectra/San into the tank. The tank would be emptied like any other tank...it cannot be processed through the Lectra/San. I think the rest of your questions will be answered if you spend some time reading the Lectra/San specs and manual on the Raritan website (link below).
H35.5 Holding Tank Vent Tube Size
Hey Jim, I am ordering a new plastic 30 gal holding tank from Raritan to replace the aluminum one in my 1995 H35.5. What is the size of the vent tube?
Hey Jim, I am ordering a new plastic 30 gal holding tank from Raritan to replace the aluminum one in my 1995 H35.5. What is the size of the vent tube?
Better check it again, Fred...
Current price on their website is $759 See link... Are you sure $684 isn't their price for the PuraSan?
Current price on their website is $759 See link... Are you sure $684 isn't their price for the PuraSan?
Industry standard is 5/8"...however,
That's only because it's the standard size for fuel and water tanks. A 1" vent is a better size for a holding tank. When you spec your fittings, if possible put the inlet and the vent toward the centerline of the boat instead of toward the hull. That prevents spills out the vent and into the inlet hose to run back toward the toilet when you're heeled. Putting ALL the fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank for the discharge is the ideal way, IF you have enough clearance above the top of the tank for elbows. 1.5" elbows need 5", a 1" vent needs 2.5". Putting 'em all on the top eliminates standing waste in the hoses, and increases the useable capacity of the tank. Try hard to put the vent fitting on the top, even if there isn't room for the 1.5" fittings.
That's only because it's the standard size for fuel and water tanks. A 1" vent is a better size for a holding tank. When you spec your fittings, if possible put the inlet and the vent toward the centerline of the boat instead of toward the hull. That prevents spills out the vent and into the inlet hose to run back toward the toilet when you're heeled. Putting ALL the fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank for the discharge is the ideal way, IF you have enough clearance above the top of the tank for elbows. 1.5" elbows need 5", a 1" vent needs 2.5". Putting 'em all on the top eliminates standing waste in the hoses, and increases the useable capacity of the tank. Try hard to put the vent fitting on the top, even if there isn't room for the 1.5" fittings.
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