I recently purchased an H37 Cutter. The head doesn't appear to have been used for some time. (the gate valve on the water intake is stuck shut). Once I get the valve replaced with a seacock the next order of business will be service the head -- it isn't original -- and replace the bladder holding tank with a real holding tank. I will also replace all of the hoses at that time. I've looked through the archives and the reference, but I still have a few questions. Where do I need vented loops? Do I need one between the manual discharge pump and the seacock? Do I need one between the tank and the head (or does the jocker valve take care of that.) What do I need to do to support the tank? How are the tanks secured against movement? The tanks I've seen don't seem to have anything for securing them. If I need to build supports, does anyone have any suggestions? I'm not sure I can relocate the vent to the bow, since that section of the boat seems fairly hard to get to. Any suggestions? Debra
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A FEW questions??? 
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Let's take 'em one at a time... "Where do I need vented loops? Do I need one between the manual discharge pump and the seacock? Do I need one between the tank and the head (or does the jocker valve take care of that.)" If the toilet is below the boat's waterline, you'd be smart to put a vented loop in the intake line to keep the bowl from flooding and overflowing in case someone leaves the seacock open and the dry/flush valve in the "flush" position. Relying on the dry/flush valve is dangerous...they have a very high failure rate. Put it between thepump and the bowl...if you put it between the thru-hull/seacock and the pump it interferes with the pump's ability to prime. And btw...the seacock should always remain closed except when the head is actually in use. Although not required, I recommend putting a vented loop--or at least a high loop in the hose--in the head discharge line between the head and the tank to prevent waste from getting back to the toilet when you're heeled. The joker valve will prevent any solids or paper from getting through (provided you replace it at least annually), but it won't stop liquids from seeping back into the bowl. You need one between the manual pump and the seacock. All vented loops should be at least a foot above the water line at any angle of heel. " What do I need to do to support the tank? How are the tanks secured against movement? The tanks I've seen don't seem to have anything for securing them." A good quality thick-walled tank only has to be supported on the bottom. Tanks don't move up and down very easily...but they can slide if not either firmly "wedged in" or strapped down. How to do it depends on where it is. My own is held in place with quarter-round at the corners--easy to do with a rectangular tank, but might not work with a non-rectangular shape. Basically, it's whatever works. Often just putting non-skid rubber matting (the kind you find in the kitchen shelf paper section at K-Mart) under it is all you need. " I'm not sure I can relocate the vent to the bow, since that section of the boat seems fairly hard to get to. Any suggestions?" Where to run the vent depends on where the tank is--and where the tank has to go depends upon where the head is located in the boat. I like to put the tank in the bow whenever possible, but when the head is in the aft end of the cabin that won't work...and running a vent all the way to the bow from a midship tank doesn't accomplish anything. So before you decide where you can vent a tank, we need to figure out where the tank can go, and I'll be glad to help you spec out the system via e-mail or phone. As for whether to rebuild the head or replace it too... Even though it's not original, if it's one that can be replaced for under $150 at discount, you may be better off replacing it than putting ANY money into it. So what make/model is it, and how old is it?
))Let's take 'em one at a time... "Where do I need vented loops? Do I need one between the manual discharge pump and the seacock? Do I need one between the tank and the head (or does the jocker valve take care of that.)" If the toilet is below the boat's waterline, you'd be smart to put a vented loop in the intake line to keep the bowl from flooding and overflowing in case someone leaves the seacock open and the dry/flush valve in the "flush" position. Relying on the dry/flush valve is dangerous...they have a very high failure rate. Put it between thepump and the bowl...if you put it between the thru-hull/seacock and the pump it interferes with the pump's ability to prime. And btw...the seacock should always remain closed except when the head is actually in use. Although not required, I recommend putting a vented loop--or at least a high loop in the hose--in the head discharge line between the head and the tank to prevent waste from getting back to the toilet when you're heeled. The joker valve will prevent any solids or paper from getting through (provided you replace it at least annually), but it won't stop liquids from seeping back into the bowl. You need one between the manual pump and the seacock. All vented loops should be at least a foot above the water line at any angle of heel. " What do I need to do to support the tank? How are the tanks secured against movement? The tanks I've seen don't seem to have anything for securing them." A good quality thick-walled tank only has to be supported on the bottom. Tanks don't move up and down very easily...but they can slide if not either firmly "wedged in" or strapped down. How to do it depends on where it is. My own is held in place with quarter-round at the corners--easy to do with a rectangular tank, but might not work with a non-rectangular shape. Basically, it's whatever works. Often just putting non-skid rubber matting (the kind you find in the kitchen shelf paper section at K-Mart) under it is all you need. " I'm not sure I can relocate the vent to the bow, since that section of the boat seems fairly hard to get to. Any suggestions?" Where to run the vent depends on where the tank is--and where the tank has to go depends upon where the head is located in the boat. I like to put the tank in the bow whenever possible, but when the head is in the aft end of the cabin that won't work...and running a vent all the way to the bow from a midship tank doesn't accomplish anything. So before you decide where you can vent a tank, we need to figure out where the tank can go, and I'll be glad to help you spec out the system via e-mail or phone. As for whether to rebuild the head or replace it too... Even though it's not original, if it's one that can be replaced for under $150 at discount, you may be better off replacing it than putting ANY money into it. So what make/model is it, and how old is it?
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