Has anyone had a problem with the pin holding the anchor on the bow roller coming out? We have lost two this seasion. We feel it is a design flaw the way the Delta anchor is held on the bow roller. We actually had the anchor go overboard once before we realized it didn't have a snubing line attached.(Brand new boat) Hunter claimes there is no problem with the design. If anyone else has had a problem with this please let me know so I can take it back to Hunter. Thanks for your help, Capt.Rich s/v Logical Order IV
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Rich, I suspect your arrangement is very...
much like our P42. The previous owner had a non-locking device of sorts that did a poor job of holding the anchor in the roller assembly. Whether this was the original Hunter design I do not know. I did not like the setup so I changed it much like I did with several other systems on the boat. First, I drilled a hole through the roller frame so that it lined up with the anchor shaft hole that the chain shackle was secured to. Then I used a SS bolt that slid through the frame holes and the shaft hole, a much more secure method of holding the anchor in place. A cotter pin hole drilled in the end of the bolt with a pin prevents the bolt from vibrating out of place. A SS wire tether keeps the cotter pin from falling away. There are bolts that have a spring loaded locking ball in the end that would have worked better, but I could not find one long enough to fit our roller. What I made works great. I am very happy with the new arrangement. It is very easy to work with and very secure. Terry
much like our P42. The previous owner had a non-locking device of sorts that did a poor job of holding the anchor in the roller assembly. Whether this was the original Hunter design I do not know. I did not like the setup so I changed it much like I did with several other systems on the boat. First, I drilled a hole through the roller frame so that it lined up with the anchor shaft hole that the chain shackle was secured to. Then I used a SS bolt that slid through the frame holes and the shaft hole, a much more secure method of holding the anchor in place. A cotter pin hole drilled in the end of the bolt with a pin prevents the bolt from vibrating out of place. A SS wire tether keeps the cotter pin from falling away. There are bolts that have a spring loaded locking ball in the end that would have worked better, but I could not find one long enough to fit our roller. What I made works great. I am very happy with the new arrangement. It is very easy to work with and very secure. Terry
Anchor pins
We have a 2002 356 and the design is the same. The holes drilled for the locking pins are too large and make for a sloppy fit. As soon as we got the boat I purchased a large Cunningham hook and tied a line to it to use as a snubber. It works well and is quick to release. I believe it is quality issue with Hunter.
We have a 2002 356 and the design is the same. The holes drilled for the locking pins are too large and make for a sloppy fit. As soon as we got the boat I purchased a large Cunningham hook and tied a line to it to use as a snubber. It works well and is quick to release. I believe it is quality issue with Hunter.
Locking pin
I have the same problem on my 2004 44DS. The pin that came with the boat has the little spring loaded ball but it works loose in time. Look forward to some answers.
I have the same problem on my 2004 44DS. The pin that came with the boat has the little spring loaded ball but it works loose in time. Look forward to some answers.
Seamanship
I have spent most of life at sea on various vessels of sail and power. No boat manufacturer of any type builds a sailor proof boat!!!! Experience at sea proves that any design can be less than expected because a boat is a flexing, vibrating, twisting hull underway. As sea conditions become more pronounced, the boat is subject to greater forces. Good seamanship dictates that anchors and chains be secured with chain snubbers or chain claws or chocks to hold them fast when not in use. (Not necessarily provided by the boat builder) It is always easiest to blame the manufacturer for lack of proper seamanship on the boat operators part. I really am not pointing fingers or being a wise guy. I only seek to point out that when an operator takes a vessel underway it is their responsibility to use good seamanship. If you doubt my statement, ask the local US Coast Guard Commandant.
I have spent most of life at sea on various vessels of sail and power. No boat manufacturer of any type builds a sailor proof boat!!!! Experience at sea proves that any design can be less than expected because a boat is a flexing, vibrating, twisting hull underway. As sea conditions become more pronounced, the boat is subject to greater forces. Good seamanship dictates that anchors and chains be secured with chain snubbers or chain claws or chocks to hold them fast when not in use. (Not necessarily provided by the boat builder) It is always easiest to blame the manufacturer for lack of proper seamanship on the boat operators part. I really am not pointing fingers or being a wise guy. I only seek to point out that when an operator takes a vessel underway it is their responsibility to use good seamanship. If you doubt my statement, ask the local US Coast Guard Commandant.
Solution
I definitely had the same issue and noticed the poor design under heavy seas. Our anchor was literally bouncing up and down with each wave. Solution: I took the pins to a machine shop and had them drilled through where the ball bearings are. I then put a SS ring through the hole to ensure it doesn't come loose. This has worked perfect, you just need to make sure you allow yourself a little extra time to get ready to release the hook... I agree with you that this is definitely a design flaw and it's too bad that Hunter tries to deny it!
I definitely had the same issue and noticed the poor design under heavy seas. Our anchor was literally bouncing up and down with each wave. Solution: I took the pins to a machine shop and had them drilled through where the ball bearings are. I then put a SS ring through the hole to ensure it doesn't come loose. This has worked perfect, you just need to make sure you allow yourself a little extra time to get ready to release the hook... I agree with you that this is definitely a design flaw and it's too bad that Hunter tries to deny it!
On my 2002 H410 I find that ....
the long pin with the ball bearing at the end fits fairly well, but once the pin is in I hit the windlass up switch one last time which locks the pin and the anchor securely. I also added small nylon braid line from the ring on the end of the pin to the stem fitting so the pin can't go overboard. Thinking about it now, the shock cord type line would do the same but the sideways tension would hold the pin in also.
the long pin with the ball bearing at the end fits fairly well, but once the pin is in I hit the windlass up switch one last time which locks the pin and the anchor securely. I also added small nylon braid line from the ring on the end of the pin to the stem fitting so the pin can't go overboard. Thinking about it now, the shock cord type line would do the same but the sideways tension would hold the pin in also.
Anchor float line
If you use an anchor float, attached with a light line to the anchor (on a claw, it runs to an eye on top of the anchor), you can just stretch the float line tight from the anchor and cleat it off in the anchor locker. This is what we've been doing since rigging an anchor float, and it seems really simple and secure. The chain goes to the cleat first, and the float line is cleated on top of this.
If you use an anchor float, attached with a light line to the anchor (on a claw, it runs to an eye on top of the anchor), you can just stretch the float line tight from the anchor and cleat it off in the anchor locker. This is what we've been doing since rigging an anchor float, and it seems really simple and secure. The chain goes to the cleat first, and the float line is cleated on top of this.
Chain hook
Captain Rich, my Hunter 410 has a stainless steel anchor 'holder' on the bow of the boat with a 8 inch long pin that passes through a 3/8th inch hole on the port side of the stainless steel 'holder',through a hole in the forward end of the Bruce anchor, and out the opposite 3/8th inch hole on the other side of the stainless platform or 'holder'. The pin has a small spring-loaded ball in the end that prevents it from working out of the holes. It works ok. I see no design flaw with the way it is set up except that the stainless steel anchor holder could be made of heavier gauge steel. But I have never completely trusted this arrangement to keep the anchor in place in a heavy sea. I always snub off the anchor chain with chain hook attached to 15 feet of 1/2 inch 3-strand nylon line. I connect the chain hook to the anchor chain, tension the chain hook with the line and cleat the line to the cleat in the anchor well. When pulled up tight it seats the anchor in the anchor holder securely. I dont see the problem as a Hunter defect, at least on my boat. So far my anchor has stayed put in some pretty rough weather.....granted with the help of my simple addition. Good luck and enjoy what looks like a great boat. John
Captain Rich, my Hunter 410 has a stainless steel anchor 'holder' on the bow of the boat with a 8 inch long pin that passes through a 3/8th inch hole on the port side of the stainless steel 'holder',through a hole in the forward end of the Bruce anchor, and out the opposite 3/8th inch hole on the other side of the stainless platform or 'holder'. The pin has a small spring-loaded ball in the end that prevents it from working out of the holes. It works ok. I see no design flaw with the way it is set up except that the stainless steel anchor holder could be made of heavier gauge steel. But I have never completely trusted this arrangement to keep the anchor in place in a heavy sea. I always snub off the anchor chain with chain hook attached to 15 feet of 1/2 inch 3-strand nylon line. I connect the chain hook to the anchor chain, tension the chain hook with the line and cleat the line to the cleat in the anchor well. When pulled up tight it seats the anchor in the anchor holder securely. I dont see the problem as a Hunter defect, at least on my boat. So far my anchor has stayed put in some pretty rough weather.....granted with the help of my simple addition. Good luck and enjoy what looks like a great boat. John
Thank you for your help
Thanks for your responses. I think I have enough responses and pictures to bring the problem to Hunter. I solved our problem early on by adding a snubbing line but I still feel that when one spends multi-thousand dollars on a new product, one would expect it to have all the correct parts. In other words, if it needed a snubbing line, it should have been furnished with the boat. As owners of brand new boat on our first cruise we were more concerned with the fact that the altintor was not wired properly and therefore not working, the a/c did not work correctly, the electronics were not calibrated properly, etc.etc. We did not expect to have a problem with the anchor comming loose. After all it was pinned to the roller. Thanks again and may all your tides be rising. Captain Rich s/v Logical Order IV
Thanks for your responses. I think I have enough responses and pictures to bring the problem to Hunter. I solved our problem early on by adding a snubbing line but I still feel that when one spends multi-thousand dollars on a new product, one would expect it to have all the correct parts. In other words, if it needed a snubbing line, it should have been furnished with the boat. As owners of brand new boat on our first cruise we were more concerned with the fact that the altintor was not wired properly and therefore not working, the a/c did not work correctly, the electronics were not calibrated properly, etc.etc. We did not expect to have a problem with the anchor comming loose. After all it was pinned to the roller. Thanks again and may all your tides be rising. Captain Rich s/v Logical Order IV
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