i'am trying to find out if anyone has added a high output alternater to a 336 equiped with a yanmar 3gm30f engine. the one in question is a direct relplacement of a yanmar 115amp and/or an 80amp. the questions are as follows. how much of a reduced engine performance if any. any special additional wiring besides adding a 4 gauge wire from the bigger alternater to the starter. any help would be helpful thanks.
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Ron Dague
Upgraded Alternator for 3GM30F
I've put a high output on my h34, which also uses that enging. I put the 100 amp, Balmar, 2 field output alternator. It is a "bolt on" replacement with a couple of caveats. I had to buy a longer bracket arm to replace the standard arm, since the new alternator is bigger. It fastened to one of the other mounting points on the block. There are about 3 or 4 different bolts that can be used to mount the alternator bracket. Next, the alternator belt had to be replaced with a longer one. Additionally, most of the high output alternators, including Balmar, utilize an exterior voltage regulator. It is easy to wire, and took about 30 minutes to do so. The voltage regulator that I installed is the Balmar ARS-IV. In addition to having indicator lights telling what stage of charging is going on, and different settings for different types of batteries, it also provides with a 30 second start up delay. When I start the engine, the alternator remains off for 30 seconds, allowing the cranking and start-up to take place without additional load from the alternator. The alternator then kicks in. Although I have never needed to, I can flick a switch and disengage the alternator, if I needed every bit of hp for the propellor. Since the load of the alternator on the engine decreases as the batteries become fully charged, I've never noticed any real drag on the engine from the alternator. In summary, this is one of the best additions that I did to my boat! If you want to see more about my set-up, you can read a longer explanation and see a picture of the alternator at: www.explorescuba.com and click on the "Specifications" label. Then scroll down to the "Charging System" section. There is about a 2 or 3 page explanation of the alternator and charging system that I installed. There are also pictures of my boat, etc. I am plannng to post a wiring diagram and more pictures of the wiring in the next couple of days, also. Also, feel free to email me directly with any other questions about the alternator, other brands that I looked at, and installation. Glad to help, if I can. RonDague@yahoo.com
I've put a high output on my h34, which also uses that enging. I put the 100 amp, Balmar, 2 field output alternator. It is a "bolt on" replacement with a couple of caveats. I had to buy a longer bracket arm to replace the standard arm, since the new alternator is bigger. It fastened to one of the other mounting points on the block. There are about 3 or 4 different bolts that can be used to mount the alternator bracket. Next, the alternator belt had to be replaced with a longer one. Additionally, most of the high output alternators, including Balmar, utilize an exterior voltage regulator. It is easy to wire, and took about 30 minutes to do so. The voltage regulator that I installed is the Balmar ARS-IV. In addition to having indicator lights telling what stage of charging is going on, and different settings for different types of batteries, it also provides with a 30 second start up delay. When I start the engine, the alternator remains off for 30 seconds, allowing the cranking and start-up to take place without additional load from the alternator. The alternator then kicks in. Although I have never needed to, I can flick a switch and disengage the alternator, if I needed every bit of hp for the propellor. Since the load of the alternator on the engine decreases as the batteries become fully charged, I've never noticed any real drag on the engine from the alternator. In summary, this is one of the best additions that I did to my boat! If you want to see more about my set-up, you can read a longer explanation and see a picture of the alternator at: www.explorescuba.com and click on the "Specifications" label. Then scroll down to the "Charging System" section. There is about a 2 or 3 page explanation of the alternator and charging system that I installed. There are also pictures of my boat, etc. I am plannng to post a wiring diagram and more pictures of the wiring in the next couple of days, also. Also, feel free to email me directly with any other questions about the alternator, other brands that I looked at, and installation. Glad to help, if I can. RonDague@yahoo.com
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Mike Kinney
fairly easy installation
Like Ron, I added a 100 amp Balmar with a three stage regulator. As I recall everything required for the installation was included with the alternator or regulator. This upgrade dramatically reduces charging time and has other benefits mentioned by Ron. I notice no reduced performance from my engine.
Like Ron, I added a 100 amp Balmar with a three stage regulator. As I recall everything required for the installation was included with the alternator or regulator. This upgrade dramatically reduces charging time and has other benefits mentioned by Ron. I notice no reduced performance from my engine.
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Paul Bednarzyk
Alternators
Mike, While I agree 100% with the comments by Mike and Ron, a couple of caveats to remember. First because the amperage to the battery will be higher, although for a shorter time, the positive output lead from the alternator should be a larger gauge. I went with 0 wire (I think). Also the negative (ground) wire from the alternator to the ground, which on the Yanmar is on the engine block, will need to be upgraded as well. I ran a second wire in addition to the one already present with the second wire being 6 gauge. Otherwise, installation was straight forward, but I must admit it took me more than 30 minutes to do this, but having the ability to recharge my batteries efficiently makes all the difference in the world. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
Mike, While I agree 100% with the comments by Mike and Ron, a couple of caveats to remember. First because the amperage to the battery will be higher, although for a shorter time, the positive output lead from the alternator should be a larger gauge. I went with 0 wire (I think). Also the negative (ground) wire from the alternator to the ground, which on the Yanmar is on the engine block, will need to be upgraded as well. I ran a second wire in addition to the one already present with the second wire being 6 gauge. Otherwise, installation was straight forward, but I must admit it took me more than 30 minutes to do this, but having the ability to recharge my batteries efficiently makes all the difference in the world. I hope this helps. Paul Bednarzyk S/V Knot Again
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Steve Donahue
IAGREE WITH RON, BUT....
it sure took more than 30 minutes - plus MANY trips to West for bolts, extenson arms, etc. Also took the opportunity to replace all my wiring to batteries. I put it on before leaving Baltimore for Caribbean and so far, put 150 hours+ on it. With my current amp needs, couldn't have done it without upgrade.
it sure took more than 30 minutes - plus MANY trips to West for bolts, extenson arms, etc. Also took the opportunity to replace all my wiring to batteries. I put it on before leaving Baltimore for Caribbean and so far, put 150 hours+ on it. With my current amp needs, couldn't have done it without upgrade.
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Ron Dague
About 3 hours total
You guys are right! The 30 minute estimate was only for connecting the wires from the batteries and to the regulator. It took me about an hour to mount the alternator on the engine. I had bought the extended, curved mounting arm. I had to fabricate a metric bolt, about 5 inches long, cutting the threads with a die. I also upgraded all of my wiring to and from the batteries. Based upon the length of my run, I went to 2 guage for each battery bank. I have the 2 output field alternator model, which I highly recommend. I added a 2 guage ground wire to the 4 guage already on the system. The battery wiring/upgrade took about 1 1/2-2 hours. Probably the hardest part was standing on my head in the rear starboard lazerette, reconnecting the new wires to the batteries. A final caveat. I'm fairly mechanical and have most tools know to man (or boy!). This was not a hard job, but does require a little improvision and a trip or two to the hardware store! (Note: Above times do not include contemplation of the job while consuming Miller Lite, nor other distractions inherent along the topless beach in Miami.)
You guys are right! The 30 minute estimate was only for connecting the wires from the batteries and to the regulator. It took me about an hour to mount the alternator on the engine. I had bought the extended, curved mounting arm. I had to fabricate a metric bolt, about 5 inches long, cutting the threads with a die. I also upgraded all of my wiring to and from the batteries. Based upon the length of my run, I went to 2 guage for each battery bank. I have the 2 output field alternator model, which I highly recommend. I added a 2 guage ground wire to the 4 guage already on the system. The battery wiring/upgrade took about 1 1/2-2 hours. Probably the hardest part was standing on my head in the rear starboard lazerette, reconnecting the new wires to the batteries. A final caveat. I'm fairly mechanical and have most tools know to man (or boy!). This was not a hard job, but does require a little improvision and a trip or two to the hardware store! (Note: Above times do not include contemplation of the job while consuming Miller Lite, nor other distractions inherent along the topless beach in Miami.)
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