High Gloss

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Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
Earlier in the season I wet sanded, compounded and waxed my 33 year old hull. It looked good but recently I read that a quality polish should be used after compounding but prior to waxing. I figured I would give it a shot. I used Mirror Glaze number 7 and applied with a quality wheel, foam pad. What a difference, followed up with Collinite wax.

A added a shot of the transom.
 

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Jan 2, 2013
74
Hunter 23.5 Lafayette, LA
Very nice I restored a older ski boat years ago that had been painted over the gelcoat. Lots of sanding then compounding then polish then wax but man it came out nice. The colors pop.

Great job
 

Ward H

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Nov 7, 2011
3,787
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
Nice job. It is amazing what some compounding, polish and wax can do to an older boat. I did my 33 yr old boat in the spring. Used 3M products. Came up nice also.
According to Main Sail's article on buffing and polishing, the smoother the finish the longer the shine will last so the polishing step has several benefits.
Again, very nice.
 
Aug 8, 2012
69
Oday 20 My garage
Could you possibly past the steps you took to do this including compounds used, sanding grit size etc. I have a 77 O'day 20 I want to look like that.

Thanks.

Scott
 
Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
1- wash with soap and water
2- wet sand with 600 then 1500
3 - compound, I used 3M Super Duty (wool pad on variable speed wheel)
4- Polish, I used Mirror Glaze number 7 (same wheel with foam pad)
5- Wax, I used Collinite number 885 ( Applied and removed by hand)

It's a good workout but worth it.
 
Aug 8, 2012
69
Oday 20 My garage
Thank you very much. Did you use an orbital sander in the beginning for the 600 and 1500?
 
Jan 22, 2008
16
Oday 222 El Dorado Co CA
Second this method. I went to 2000 grit after 1500 (less rubbing needed). Then 3m course rubbing and then 3m fine rubbing then Scotchguard marine wax.

Buffer is essential for rubbing compound.

Well worth the effort and a durable shine.

1- wash with soap and water
2- wet sand with 600 then 1500
3 - compound, I used 3M Super Duty (wool pad on variable speed wheel)
4- Polish, I used Mirror Glaze number 7 (same wheel with foam pad)
5- Wax, I used Collinite number 885 ( Applied and removed by hand)

It's a good workout but worth it.
 
Sep 17, 2012
74
Oday Mariner Middle River Md
I did just about the same process with my 1970 Mariner which had sat outside and uncovered in a boatyard for almost 10 years. It was rough to say the least.
The hull was pretty easy compared to the topside with all the nooks and crannies.
What you really want to do is start with the least aggressive method as you are removing gelcoat and there's only so much there.

Using a rotory buffer, [not a random orbital] try to polish a spot. If that doesn't work, try compound, saving sanding as a last resort.

I first tried wet sanding with an air powered DA sander using 1500. I found that as the topside, especially the long flat surfaces, were not perfectly smooth, I was seeing sanded high spots and un-sanded low spots. It was giving me a bit of a stippled appearing effect with lighter and darker spots. I also felt like I was removing too much material.

I then tried green Scotch-Bright pads cut into a circle and stuck to hook and loop DA pad. If you cut the Scotch-Bright a 1/2" or so larger than the pad, it helps with getting into tight spots.
I think the green pads are the equivalent to 800 grit, and the gray pads are about 1500, but they don't load up and aren't as aggressive as the same grit sandpaper.
I used the pads with a heavy solution of Simple Green and water.

It worked very well leaving the surface clean, smooth and ready for compound and was flexable enough to smooth the high and low spots while removing less gelcoat.
Regardless of method used, go very light on corners.
robj
 

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Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
Awesome job, the topside is a real pain.You did such a good job that it looks like fresh paint.
 
Last edited:
Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
Post number 10 inspired me to work on the topside. I used a different approach. 1500 wet sand followed by Mirror Glaze cleaning wax and a coat of Fleetwax
 

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Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Not enough...

Putting wax on is really only about protecting the gelcoat. It doesn't really add much shine. I think the 1500 wet sanding isn't enough - there are still residual scratches which will catch sunlight and UV, and still cause it to scatter and break down the gelcoat over time. You could probably hit it with the yellow 3M wool and Presta Cutting Creme and kick it up another notch. And for the crazy shine, the Presta Chroma with a foam pad.

Be careful of the all-in-one cleaners and waxes, as Maine Sail states in his article. They contain silicone oils to make a fake shine...

Brian

Post number 10 inspired me to work on the topside. I used a different approach. 1500 wet sand followed by Mirror Glaze cleaning wax and a coat of Fleetwax
 
Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
The Mirror Glaze cleaning wax actually deep cleans, polishes and removed most of the sanding marks. It's a quality product. I then followed it up with the Fleetwax.

Compound would of removed the remaining minor imperfections but I'm happy with the result.
 
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