help with prop shaft

[codmander]

1981 33-hunter cherubini

as you can see an issue here should i just hull n deck puddy it? or take it all apart


http://images2c.snapfish.com/232323232fp53662>vq=32;5>:;9%

 

[codmander]

right click on prop shaft/ cutlass picture for close ups

 

[Ed Schenck]

You seem to have the ideal work environment, right next to the house. I would take the time and do it right. It will take a helper, probably outside with a pair of vise grips on a large philips screwdriver to hold the bolt heads. Then you inside with a wrench or socket. This is, naturally, after you have the shaft out of the way.

You are probably out of alignment also. So clean up the hull and the strut and rebed, not with 5200. Use new stainless hardware and very large fender washers. While you have the strut off have a new cutlass bearing installed. After you get in the water you will need to check and adjust the shaft alignment. Then you will be good for many years. I had eight good seasons after doing the same job. Then I went and bent the strut and started over.

 

[codmander]

You seem to have the ideal work environment, right next to the house. I would take the time and do it right. It will take a helper, probably outside with a pair of vise grips on a large philips screwdriver to hold the bolt heads. Then you inside with a wrench or socket. This is, naturally, after you have the shaft out of the way.

You are probably out of alignment also. So clean up the hull and the strut and rebed, not with 5200. Use new stainless hardware and very large fender washers. While you have the strut off have a new cutlass bearing installed. After you get in the water you will need to check and adjust the shaft alignment. Then you will be good for many years. I had eight good seasons after doing the same job. Then I went and bent the strut and started over.

Thanks ED I've been an outboard guy my whole life so this deisal/shaft stuff is totally chinese to me what your saying is pull the shaft and than remove strut -redo strut- than reinstall shaft? when installing shaft into new strut/cutlass bearing I suppose than you leave strut loose untill you get the shaft were you want it than adjust/tighten the strut to that angle?

the bitch about it is its as smooth as a babys butt right now couldnt I just loosen strut re adjust shaft than hull n deck puddy/fiberglass than sand and paint that gap ?

 

[Allan12210]

Mine was like that too

We discovered ours had the same clearance issue yours has. Like Ed says, you should check the alignment and fix it. You will find a very noticable improvement in sounds transmitted through the boat.

Check the alignment by disconnecting the coupling and unscrewing the packing nut and see where the shaft actually wants to point as it goes through the cutlass bearing and into the stern tube. Mine was way off and took effort to pull it to center. Support the shaft inside the boat in the center of the stern tube with a block of wood with a V cut into it. Can you rotate the shaft very easily with no binding at the cutlass bearing? Does the cutlass bearing want to direct the shaft off at an angle? ( If the cutlass is already worn out, you may have to replace it first to perform this test.) Search the archives for how to change the culass bearing without removing the shaft. If it passes nicely through the center, then realign the engine motor mounts to match up the flange faces. If it binds, check the passage of the shaft through the cutlass bearing while it is supported in the center of the stern tube. You will probably find at that point the cutlass rubber is being pinched on opposite sides of the bearing. The strut will need to be realigned (like mine did). I took it off and with the help of a belt sander, changed the angle of the flat part slightly. I mixed up a batch of epoxy/microbaloons and put it in the well where the strut goes. Put a couple of layers of Saran wrap on the strut. You do not want to glue the strut to the boat at this point. Put the strut in place with the shaft held in the center of the stern tube and in my case, support it with a step ladder and a bottle jack. That way you can fine tune the alignment. It is not bolted as the original holes now filled with epoxy are no longer aligned with the strut base. Make sure the shaft is passing through the cutlass bearing perfectly centered (not tipped up or down and straight left and right. Let the epoy cure. Trim off the exra epoxy that squishes out. You can then redrill the holes using the strut as a template. I only bedded the holes themselves with 4200 as I still didn't want to really glue the strut to the hull. After aligning the engine it has been really good ever since.

It looks like you have a good place to work on the boat. I had to do mine in the yard and pay for the storage days. There is never enough time to really spend a lot of time to do these projects right. I always have to rush and usually leave something out, which is frustrating.

Good luck

Allan

 

[codmander]

intresting,,,,,,,,, thank you Allen

 

[SamLust]

I have been through this with my 1983 Hunter 33. The assemblers back then were not too concerned with drive train alignment and it is very important. Engine/shaft/log/strut must be aligned as a unit.

In place of the original screws holding the strut I made up an aluminum plate with two 1/2" studs hanging down from inside which holds the strut up to the hull. The shaft was secured in alignment through the log and the strut was bedded in new filled epoxy in alignment to the shaft and log. Lastly the engine was aligned to the shaft/strut system. In my case this required adding 3/4" below the (new) engine mounts. The shaft is now centered perfectly to the outer and inner parts of the log.

 

[codmander]

I have been through this with my 1983 Hunter 33. The assemblers back then were not too concerned with drive train alignment and it is very important. Engine/shaft/log/strut must be aligned as a unit.

In place of the original screws holding the strut I made up an aluminum plate with two 1/2" studs hanging down from inside which holds the strut up to the hull. The shaft was secured in alignment through the log and the strut was bedded in new filled epoxy in alignment to the shaft and log. Lastly the engine was aligned to the shaft/strut system. In my case this required adding 3/4" below the (new) engine mounts. The shaft is now centered perfectly to the outer and inner parts of the log.

actully the alignment is perfect as far as smooth and out of round goes is just the clearences that are goofy ((strut hangs lower than hull)) (and shaft isnt quite centered in stuffing box))) - so just to pull up the strut somewhat gotta do the whole deal---------one of those crooked but straight senerios :neutral:

theres probly a reason its like that i just havnt found it yet just as you think you got it booom holy crap soo thats why they had it like that ....lol