Help with halyards at mast head

May 22, 2021
6
Catalina 30 Portland, Maine
Hello!

I have been having trouble with the halyard on the front side of my mast getting wrapped up in the genoa when furling/unfurling. Pictures posted show the red line in front, which I have been using as an uphaul for a whisker pole when poling out the genoa, and the blue line behind as the halyard for the genoa. When sailing and the red line is tied up against the mast, it often gets wrapped up along the forestay and causes inability to furl the genoa back in which has caused some sticky situations. Would love some advice on how to deal with this and still have a functioning uphaul for those occasions when I need to pole out the genoa.

Unrelated note: As a new owner, any other general maintenance or upgrades you recommend while my mast is down this winter?

Thanks so much!

IMG_2273.jpg
 
Jul 5, 2005
218
Beneteau 361 Sandusky Harbor Marina
I believe your jib halyard is supposed to go through that fairlead-type thing you see in the picture. I can't remember what it's called. My jib halyard goes through one of those, at any rate, and I think that may solve your problem.
 
May 22, 2021
6
Catalina 30 Portland, Maine
Thanks, Ben! Yeah, I thought about that but because it wouldn't change the position of the top of the furling mechanism on the forestay, it wouldn't change the relationship between the furler and the red line which is somehow in front of the whole thing so I worry it will still twist around it. But I'll certainly at least give it a go!
 
Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
Looks like the problem is that you are crossing the uphaul line to the mast, thus fouling it (duh, you know that). It seems that you should move that uphaul block to mount lower on the mast so it runs fully behind the line of the genoa furler, which you can do more easily after dropping the mast. Pole handling equipment is usually attached only high enough up as needed, not masthead.

For now, you could attach the deck level of both legs of that uphaul out to pulpit, and haul them tight so they do not foul the furler. This is how we clip on our Spinnaker halyard, so it does not foul most of the time, but we need to keep it tensioned as it is only 6 inches above the furler for the entire 50+ foot run..
Front of Boat.jpg

@Ben4195 - I think that OP has fouled that red line, not the blue genoa halyard, but I agree if that it is better to pass the down leg through that fairlead. If he attached the end lead to the top swivel, it would cause a severe angle at the top of the hoist.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,901
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
It's called a halyard restrainer and is there to avoid the very problem you described. Good luck.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,217
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
a functioning uphaul for those occasions when I need to pole out the genoa.
The red line was intended to be used as a halyard for a spinnaker, not an up-haul for your pole.

Even for that intends purpose, you need what is called a crane to move the Halyard further out forward on the mast head.
This is the "stingySailor" set up.
1643396192770.png


Ideally you want to get the spinnaker block out in front and away from the forestay. The spinnaker crane helps do this, especially on a mast head rig as you have.
1643396359411.png


When sailing and the red line is tied up against the mast, it often gets wrapped up along the forestay and causes inability to furl the genoa
A temporary idea might be to move the halyard from the mast to the front of the bow pulpit. When the line if pulled up snug it would place the halyard out ahead of the forestay and the furler.

Relocating your Up-Haul, to a location on the mast maybe 10feet beneath the mast head would keep your up-haul out and away from the forestay/furler yet put the line in a great place to manage your pole.
 
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Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
As far as things to do when you drop the mast, here's a starter list, and there's tons more by searching within this forum:
  • Inspect all the blocks (and lube), swaged standing rigging fittings, bolts, Windex, etc. - replace as needed.
  • Consider replacing the standing rigging, if more than a decade old and in salt environment (cheaper when it's down)
  • Look for signs of chafe on any halyards. If you are not sure of them or they are more than a decade old, replace. By sure, I mean "bet your life" sure as you occasionally hoist humans up to the masthead on these things. Look for low-stretch quality halyards - APY posted good videos on YouTube for selections, but they no longer sell them.
  • Replace every lightbulb with the LED equivalent - Marinebeam sells quality replacements that will not emit RF to foul your VHF radio
  • Check mast cap that it does not have miscellaneous holes that will allow rain water to drip down your cables, or into your boat (keel stepped?)
  • Take pictures and measurements of everything. Every day people ask on this forum, "I don't want to go up the mast twice, so ... what brand of anchor light do I have, how big are the bolts here, what is the exact length of the mast above waterline, how many .... "
 
Oct 29, 2016
1,929
Hunter 41 DS Port Huron
Have never used an uphaul with a whisker pole, spin pole yes. The attachment point for the whisker pole should be height of the genoa's clew, with the genoa fully extended.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,385
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
As far as things to do when you drop the mast, here's a starter list, and there's tons more by searching within this forum:
  • Inspect all the blocks (and lube), swaged standing rigging fittings, bolts, Windex, etc. - replace as needed.
  • Consider replacing the standing rigging, if more than a decade old and in salt environment (cheaper when it's down)
  • Look for signs of chafe on any halyards. If you are not sure of them or they are more than a decade old, replace. By sure, I mean "bet your life" sure as you occasionally hoist humans up to the masthead on these things. Look for low-stretch quality halyards - APY posted good videos on YouTube for selections, but they no longer sell them.
  • Replace every lightbulb with the LED equivalent - Marinebeam sells quality replacements that will not emit RF to foul your VHF radio
  • Check mast cap that it does not have miscellaneous holes that will allow rain water to drip down your cables, or into your boat (keel stepped?)
  • Take pictures and measurements of everything. Every day people ask on this forum, "I don't want to go up the mast twice, so ... what brand of anchor light do I have, how big are the bolts here, what is the exact length of the mast above waterline, how many .... "
I used to tell a boat yard manager, who thought boatyards couldn't make any money on sailboats, something like this. I tried to convince him that if the cost of dropping the mast was more reasonable, there were all kinds of deferred maintenance and improvements just waiting for the mast to come down. Fell on deaf ears.
 
May 22, 2021
6
Catalina 30 Portland, Maine
Thanks everyone for the tips! I think Parsons is right on, in that even when not used as an uphaul I just need a way to get this clear of the furler so will try running it to the pulpit to get it out of the way. While the mast is down I'll add a block for the uphaul lower down. The list of maintenance items is great, will get to work so I don't have to head back up this year!

Thanks again everyone
 
Sep 6, 2018
22
catalina 310 285 waikawa NZ
i just flick the spinnaker halyard behind the spreaders and tie off to the shroud attachments when not in use
 
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Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
i just flick the spinnaker halyard behind the spreaders and tie off to the shroud attachments when not in use
Never thought about backwards - does moving the spin halyard sharply back and to the side really keep it clear of the genoa roller furling? I guess it depends on the exact geometry up there.
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,245
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Upon further review the answer could be this: It appears the forward halyard with the red tracer is a spinnaker halyard. It should be on the bale that is forward of everything. But, it appears that the halyard block has been located to a pin that is normally used to provide down force on halyards.. That block can be disassembled at the swivel and properly located on the bale...