I am not a sailor. I have a 1970 14' C-Lark. It was sitting out in the Central Oregon weather for over 6 years; so all of the lines are rotted and all of the blocks are cracked and falling apart. I'm in the process of replacing the Running Rigging blocks and have started with the main halyard; which is the furthest I've gone. Now I'm trying to figure out what comes next, I think I have a good clue as far as the jib halyard goes. The Standing Rigging is pretty sound, hey it's stainless steel wire rope and stainless steel, well for the most part, all of the cotter pins and such.
Help With C-lark
- Thread starter mgerdau
- Start date
congratulations on your purchase.
c-larks are great fun and fast and will plane in moderate heavy air if you can keep them flat.
i believe i am using 4 or 5mm halyards, will check line sizes tomorrow or saturday
Not so much info on the web, as they are old
Peninsula Sailing Club has a small fleet and about the most information i have found
http://www.peninsulasailingclub.org/C Lark Info Main Page.htm
Willamette Sailing club used to have an active fleet, some of the older members might still have information
http://willamettesailingclub.com
c-larks are great fun and fast and will plane in moderate heavy air if you can keep them flat.
i believe i am using 4 or 5mm halyards, will check line sizes tomorrow or saturday
Not so much info on the web, as they are old
Peninsula Sailing Club has a small fleet and about the most information i have found
http://www.peninsulasailingclub.org/C Lark Info Main Page.htm
Willamette Sailing club used to have an active fleet, some of the older members might still have information
http://willamettesailingclub.com
Thanks for the info! I've replaced about half of the blocks; working my way down the mast to the boom. I do need to replace both shrouds and the traveler; could you refer me to someone to make them up?congratulations on your purchase.
c-larks are great fun and fast and will plane in moderate heavy air if you can keep them flat.
i believe i am using 4 or 5mm halyards, will check line sizes tomorrow or saturday
Not so much info on the web, as they are old
Peninsula Sailing Club has a small fleet and about the most information i have found
http://www.peninsulasailingclub.org/C Lark Info Main Page.htm
Willamette Sailing club used to have an active fleet, some of the older members might still have information
http://willamettesailingclub.com
for shrouds i would contact salty dog marine i know they do custom work,and im sure they would make a wire traveler for you too,
when my traveler wire broke, i went with a length of 5mm vectran tied with bowlines it works great
when my traveler wire broke, i went with a length of 5mm vectran tied with bowlines it works great
Thanks again, pappacraig, for the info.
I've looked at the Peninsula Sailing Club info before and gleaned a lot from it; but I'm still very confused about the running rigging, the standing rigging seems to be very straight forward. As I mentioned I've replaced over half of the blocks, but I don't know if I've put things where they should be. When I obtained the boat inside the sail bag there was a very old mimeographed diagram which was hard to follow. Then I found the same diagram on the Peninsula Sailing Club site, which is also very hard to follow. The main halyard blocks were straight forward and I replaced the sheaves; they work really smooth now! On the jib side of the mast I have three blocks, the middle one raises the jib to where I think it should be; but what are the other two blocks for?
I'm in the process of replacing the blocks on the boom. The traveler arrangement I was able to find a diagram on Racelite's website, so that answered that question. Now the downhaul and the vang. And I think this evening I found a good diagram for the boom vang.
As I research the running rigging now I'm thinking about new lines; the old lines fell apart I
when I put any torque on them. I'm looking at 35' of 5/16" polyester regatta single braid for the mainsheet. For the jib I'm thinking of 1/4" polyester Sta-Set single braid but I'm not sure what length. For the traveler I'm thinking of 1/4" polyester regatta single braid, again I'm not sure what length. For the Main Halyard I'm thinking 1/4" polyester Sta-Set X parallel core, my mast x 2.5; but I have wire rope for my main halyard so maybe I don't need so much line. Then for the Boom Vang the boom length x 2,
I've also heard its a good idea to color code the lines; which makes sense to me but is there a "standard" or is it up to one's "color sense," LOL.
I'll check Salty Dog Marine out tomorrow for the shroud lines - Thanks again!
sorry for the long post, but maybe this will help other lurkers too
Moja is not rigged at the moment so i measured out of my bag…
Traveler 6mm x 48” double braid VPC long leaving 44” between eye straps which is close to what the wire length was color Black
Vang 5mm x 10’ double braid polyester which works fine for me color white/red
Mainsheet 9mm x 35’ long double braid poly overkill but soft and a has a better feel in my hand this requires larger blocks
Jib sheet 9mm x 25’ long ancient double braid, white i them cris cross so i can control jib from the high side when single handing
Main Halyard 5mm x 24’ vpc, along with the wire rope Green for starboard side of mast
Jib halyard 5mm x 15’ vpc along with the wire rope Red for port side of mast
Blocks the larger main sheet requires 40mm blocks, so
traveler block is Harken 40mm carbo
boom end block is 40mm carbo with swivel. should change to 40mm cargo with becket for ease of rigging
boom mid block is an ancient Fico that must be original stock
Finally the ratchet block is another ancient Fico 40mm that should be replaced
blocks on jib side of mast… assuming you mean the 3 at the bottom of the mast
they are used for adjusting jib luff tension
i slapped together 2 pictures, one has 1x1 mechanical advantage, leaving the outside bottom pulley for the spinnaker halyard
the other has a 2x1 MA which doesn’t leave a pulley for the spinnaker, but i don’t have one so no biggie
5mm is a tight squeeze into the hole in the 16mm block but a simple overhand knot in the end keeps it in place
Moja is not rigged at the moment so i measured out of my bag…
Traveler 6mm x 48” double braid VPC long leaving 44” between eye straps which is close to what the wire length was color Black
Vang 5mm x 10’ double braid polyester which works fine for me color white/red
Mainsheet 9mm x 35’ long double braid poly overkill but soft and a has a better feel in my hand this requires larger blocks
Jib sheet 9mm x 25’ long ancient double braid, white i them cris cross so i can control jib from the high side when single handing
Main Halyard 5mm x 24’ vpc, along with the wire rope Green for starboard side of mast
Jib halyard 5mm x 15’ vpc along with the wire rope Red for port side of mast
Blocks the larger main sheet requires 40mm blocks, so
traveler block is Harken 40mm carbo
boom end block is 40mm carbo with swivel. should change to 40mm cargo with becket for ease of rigging
boom mid block is an ancient Fico that must be original stock
Finally the ratchet block is another ancient Fico 40mm that should be replaced
blocks on jib side of mast… assuming you mean the 3 at the bottom of the mast
they are used for adjusting jib luff tension
i slapped together 2 pictures, one has 1x1 mechanical advantage, leaving the outside bottom pulley for the spinnaker halyard
the other has a 2x1 MA which doesn’t leave a pulley for the spinnaker, but i don’t have one so no biggie
5mm is a tight squeeze into the hole in the 16mm block but a simple overhand knot in the end keeps it in place
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THAT IS TOTALLY AWESOME!!!!!
Thank you for the info! As soon as I get back from South Carolina I'll get working on the rigging again.
Decided to go with APS for the shrouds and traveler, shipping the old ones to them today. Leave for SC tomorrow AM.
I am really excited about the information! Thank you!!