How would you repair this? The chainplate was obviously leaking on the H23 before I bought it and has Rotted the bulkhead or chainplate mount, whatever you want to call it. (It’s not a full bulkhead) It appears the wood is only rotten where the chainplate bolts to it and a little along the top. It is solid all along the hull and about 2” below the chainplate. The bulkhead is not all that big, probably 16” tall by about 8” or so wide at the top. Obviously the best repair would be to remove the whole bulkhead and re-glass it back into the hull. The problem is that Hunter really glassed it in well and I don’t know how I’m going to cut it out without damaging the hull. I don’t know what tool I could use to cut the bulkhead out close to the hull. I also thought about just cutting the rotted portion out then re-gluing a new piece in and tying it into the old wood with a stainless steel plate of some sort. Was the wood glued to the hull first and then glassed in? I though I might could take a dremel or a 4” grinder and just cut through the glass, but if its glued to the hull I don’t know how I would separate that. I also had hoped to get the old one out whole so I could use it as pattern for the new one. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Also the wood is ¾” ply, but I don’t know what kind. What would you replace it with? I can’t get Marine grade around here without ordering it and that would be very expensive. Photo attached…. Thanks James
Help, rotten bulkhead
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If it is plywood,
you might just cut the top ply of the wood around the area where the glass filet ends. Then you could use a wedge or a pry bar to pull it down from the deck and out and away from the hull. That might allow you to get it out in mostly one piece and use it for a pattern. I am guessing that you can break the inner plys loose in the attached areas and clean up the inside of that fillet with a chisel or dremel or something that can get into the area. If not, just grind it off and use a little glass when you reinstall it. Before you reinstall the new part, I would paint it around the edge several times with highly thinned epoxy to penetrate and seal the new piece so that the water cannot get soaked up into the edges or layers and pores of the wood. You can use thinner or alcohol to thin the epoxy but test that first to see how it works out. I would only do this around the exposed areas and in the screw holes where water can seep in. Make some thickened epoxy to bed the part into place and figure some way to clamp it while that sets up. Don't reattach anything until it sets completely. Keeping it warm will help it set.
you might just cut the top ply of the wood around the area where the glass filet ends. Then you could use a wedge or a pry bar to pull it down from the deck and out and away from the hull. That might allow you to get it out in mostly one piece and use it for a pattern. I am guessing that you can break the inner plys loose in the attached areas and clean up the inside of that fillet with a chisel or dremel or something that can get into the area. If not, just grind it off and use a little glass when you reinstall it. Before you reinstall the new part, I would paint it around the edge several times with highly thinned epoxy to penetrate and seal the new piece so that the water cannot get soaked up into the edges or layers and pores of the wood. You can use thinner or alcohol to thin the epoxy but test that first to see how it works out. I would only do this around the exposed areas and in the screw holes where water can seep in. Make some thickened epoxy to bed the part into place and figure some way to clamp it while that sets up. Don't reattach anything until it sets completely. Keeping it warm will help it set.
Be Sure To Inspect The Plate
jbreland, Before you complete this operation, be sure to take out the chain plate and examine it for corrosion. The repair would be useless if the chain plate itself is corroded. If the chain plate is corroded, use the original and have a metal shop faricate a new one. Should not be all that expensive. Patrick is right on the money with ths idea of sealing the chainplate assembly. I myself would use a marine sealant to seal since I take the plate assembly apart every 3-4 years to inspect/reseal. Hope this helps, S/V Windsongs '85 H23
jbreland, Before you complete this operation, be sure to take out the chain plate and examine it for corrosion. The repair would be useless if the chain plate itself is corroded. If the chain plate is corroded, use the original and have a metal shop faricate a new one. Should not be all that expensive. Patrick is right on the money with ths idea of sealing the chainplate assembly. I myself would use a marine sealant to seal since I take the plate assembly apart every 3-4 years to inspect/reseal. Hope this helps, S/V Windsongs '85 H23
But what kind of wood
What type of wood would you replace it with. I need something I could get local. Use a ply like the way it is, or use a solid piece of wood?... What kind of wood? Not really that concerned about it matching the other one, for I may redo it also.
What type of wood would you replace it with. I need something I could get local. Use a ply like the way it is, or use a solid piece of wood?... What kind of wood? Not really that concerned about it matching the other one, for I may redo it also.
What Patrick said
If you do what Patrick said, it really won't matter too much what kind of wood you use as long as it is dry and solid. If you treat the new piece the same way he said to treat the old stuff you will effectively have a super strong WATER PROOF piece of plastic. It will be the strongest, most durable part of the entire boat. If you go to Lowe's or Home Depot they will have 1/2" cabinet grade birch plywood. Birch isn't ideal for the marine environment, but by soaking it in thinned resin (as per Patrick} you will be making it "marine." The reason for using the cabinet grade birch is that it doesn't have any voids and will be stronger than the cheap stuff. I had to replace the shelves and settee in a H23 and used a 4 1/2" grinder/cutoff tool like the one in the attached link. With that tool, I was able to quickly get a clean cut that was within 1/2" of the hull without worrying about hitting the hull. Just let the safety guard lie flat against the inside of the hull as a guide.
If you do what Patrick said, it really won't matter too much what kind of wood you use as long as it is dry and solid. If you treat the new piece the same way he said to treat the old stuff you will effectively have a super strong WATER PROOF piece of plastic. It will be the strongest, most durable part of the entire boat. If you go to Lowe's or Home Depot they will have 1/2" cabinet grade birch plywood. Birch isn't ideal for the marine environment, but by soaking it in thinned resin (as per Patrick} you will be making it "marine." The reason for using the cabinet grade birch is that it doesn't have any voids and will be stronger than the cheap stuff. I had to replace the shelves and settee in a H23 and used a 4 1/2" grinder/cutoff tool like the one in the attached link. With that tool, I was able to quickly get a clean cut that was within 1/2" of the hull without worrying about hitting the hull. Just let the safety guard lie flat against the inside of the hull as a guide.
M
mike
mine too
My boat had the same problem but was fixed by the previous owner. He had a couple stainless steel plates made by a machine shop and sandwiched them around the plywood and through bolted them. The plywood I believe he treated with "git rot" wood preservative and hardener. I can get you a picture if you like.
My boat had the same problem but was fixed by the previous owner. He had a couple stainless steel plates made by a machine shop and sandwiched them around the plywood and through bolted them. The plywood I believe he treated with "git rot" wood preservative and hardener. I can get you a picture if you like.
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