Anyone else had this problem? The arm attached to the roller furling which guilds the furling line wants to rotate with the hub. If I hold it still and turn the hub the whole assembly starts to rotate off the turnbuckle that attaches the forward stay to the bow. It could be the original equipement, there's no markings except the letter "B". Thanks, Ken s/v Pendragon '79 h37c
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
E
Ed Schenck
Hyde Staystream?
Ken, go to the Link below and see if this your furler. It's the one that is on my 1979 H37C. I have the manual at home and have had it apart for lubrication. That's probably all that you need to do. If the bearings are shot then Rig-Rite can help. Mine looks new but I am in fresh water. Ed h37skipper@aol.com
Ken, go to the Link below and see if this your furler. It's the one that is on my 1979 H37C. I have the manual at home and have had it apart for lubrication. That's probably all that you need to do. If the bearings are shot then Rig-Rite can help. Mine looks new but I am in fresh water. Ed h37skipper@aol.com
E
Edward Kennedy
CDI Furler
My 1981 Cutter has a Cruising Design furler. On this furler, the guide for the furling line is attached to a collar which clamps around the top section of the turnbuckle. To get to the parts, you have to remove the drum by removing the screws that hold the 2 halfs together. If yours is like mine, the screws are seized, and will have to be cut off and drilled out. When you get inside, you will find a round plastic block which is supposed to be the bearing for the furler. I suspect that the inside of your drum is corroded and sticking to the plastic bearing. I have the original instruction sheets, and can get a copy to youn if needed.
My 1981 Cutter has a Cruising Design furler. On this furler, the guide for the furling line is attached to a collar which clamps around the top section of the turnbuckle. To get to the parts, you have to remove the drum by removing the screws that hold the 2 halfs together. If yours is like mine, the screws are seized, and will have to be cut off and drilled out. When you get inside, you will find a round plastic block which is supposed to be the bearing for the furler. I suspect that the inside of your drum is corroded and sticking to the plastic bearing. I have the original instruction sheets, and can get a copy to youn if needed.
B
Bob Miller
Request for CDI Furler Info
I have a Cruising Design Furler on my 1984 37C, also. I haven't had any problems with it so far, but I'm very curious about the design. I do admit that in 14 years, I have never done any maintenance to it. I have been wondering if the bearings were made of nylon and wearing on the forestay and have been thinking of taking the furler off to inspect the forestay. Is that necessary? Ed Kennedy, any drawings or data you could share would sure be useful.
I have a Cruising Design Furler on my 1984 37C, also. I haven't had any problems with it so far, but I'm very curious about the design. I do admit that in 14 years, I have never done any maintenance to it. I have been wondering if the bearings were made of nylon and wearing on the forestay and have been thinking of taking the furler off to inspect the forestay. Is that necessary? Ed Kennedy, any drawings or data you could share would sure be useful.
E
Edward Kennedy
CDI Information
The CDI Manual is 20 pages. I will see if I can get it put on my web site soon. Meanwhile, there are a couple of common problems with these units. The connectors slip past the little indents in the extrusions, and the pieces come apart at the joints. I have my furler off the boat, and will be putting setscrews in to act as better stops for the conectors. Also, the top of the furler just clamps to the top of the turnbuckle. This means that it wants to twist the headstay while furling. Be sure the cotter pins on the turnbuckle are there! I had the wire line guard tied to the bow pulpit which stopped it from turning. That saves the turnbuckle cotter pins from that stress.
The CDI Manual is 20 pages. I will see if I can get it put on my web site soon. Meanwhile, there are a couple of common problems with these units. The connectors slip past the little indents in the extrusions, and the pieces come apart at the joints. I have my furler off the boat, and will be putting setscrews in to act as better stops for the conectors. Also, the top of the furler just clamps to the top of the turnbuckle. This means that it wants to twist the headstay while furling. Be sure the cotter pins on the turnbuckle are there! I had the wire line guard tied to the bow pulpit which stopped it from turning. That saves the turnbuckle cotter pins from that stress.
K
Ken DeLacy
Bottom barrel spins
with the drum, I'm not sure if this is supposed to be happening as the lowwer turnbuckle appears to thread into the bottom barrel. This being part #3 from the illistration you sent Ed. I don't think mine is the Hyde type though since the drums are different, the sail can be attached at 2 points atop the drum 180* apart. The "furling line guild" clamps around this barrel also and when I snugged up the 2 screws holding it on it no longer allowed the barrel to rotate, holding the guild and turning the drum was very difficult, and still the barrel turned with the drum. Next step may be to unscew the 4 allan bolts holding the 2 halfes of the drum together, which I'm reluctant to do with the sail still furled. Thanks for the help so far and let me know if this type is familiar to you. Ken
with the drum, I'm not sure if this is supposed to be happening as the lowwer turnbuckle appears to thread into the bottom barrel. This being part #3 from the illistration you sent Ed. I don't think mine is the Hyde type though since the drums are different, the sail can be attached at 2 points atop the drum 180* apart. The "furling line guild" clamps around this barrel also and when I snugged up the 2 screws holding it on it no longer allowed the barrel to rotate, holding the guild and turning the drum was very difficult, and still the barrel turned with the drum. Next step may be to unscew the 4 allan bolts holding the 2 halfes of the drum together, which I'm reluctant to do with the sail still furled. Thanks for the help so far and let me know if this type is familiar to you. Ken
K
Kent Johnson
I took my CDI apart
and it wasn't really that hard. Like you, my barrel spun completely around and began to unscrew from the turnbuckel. I took the two sides off, and sprayed everything I could reach with WD 40. Afer the WD, I put a lubricating oil over any area I could reach. I then placed a LARGE cotter pin in the lower turnbuckel which stops the barrel from spinning completely around. This worked fine. When I was out sailing with the jib unfurled, I took some more oil and shot a few squirts down the foil into the bearing area.
and it wasn't really that hard. Like you, my barrel spun completely around and began to unscrew from the turnbuckel. I took the two sides off, and sprayed everything I could reach with WD 40. Afer the WD, I put a lubricating oil over any area I could reach. I then placed a LARGE cotter pin in the lower turnbuckel which stops the barrel from spinning completely around. This worked fine. When I was out sailing with the jib unfurled, I took some more oil and shot a few squirts down the foil into the bearing area.
R
Richard Shelby
CDI furlers
CDI is still in business if you need parts see: http://www.sailcdi.com/sprimain.htm I took mine apart (afte 20 years of no maintenance) and it's appears to be almost bullet-proof. Just plastic and aluminum casting. RS
CDI is still in business if you need parts see: http://www.sailcdi.com/sprimain.htm I took mine apart (afte 20 years of no maintenance) and it's appears to be almost bullet-proof. Just plastic and aluminum casting. RS
G
Garry Elmer
Cruising Design Hassle
Our first outing with our 1980 33 was almost a disaster when the winds picked up to about 20 knots and we tried to bring in the 150 and that fairlead line feed dammit spun with the bail and jammed everything. It seems that it is extremely sensitive to tension on the furling line and the angle at which it enters that line feeder. We took two small shackles and linked the line feeder to one of the spare holes on the forestay chain plate. This prevented the feeder from spinning with the bail. The lenth of the small shackles allowed the feeder to line up with the angle of the furling line feed. The only problem we have had since then is if the 150 is allowed to deploy without tension on furling line and the wraps have crossed up on the bail when trying to retrieve the 150. Maybe 2 times in six years. A better fix is a Harken but ~$12 vrs $2K wins out every time. Garry http://www.99main.com/~elmergw/
Our first outing with our 1980 33 was almost a disaster when the winds picked up to about 20 knots and we tried to bring in the 150 and that fairlead line feed dammit spun with the bail and jammed everything. It seems that it is extremely sensitive to tension on the furling line and the angle at which it enters that line feeder. We took two small shackles and linked the line feeder to one of the spare holes on the forestay chain plate. This prevented the feeder from spinning with the bail. The lenth of the small shackles allowed the feeder to line up with the angle of the furling line feed. The only problem we have had since then is if the 150 is allowed to deploy without tension on furling line and the wraps have crossed up on the bail when trying to retrieve the 150. Maybe 2 times in six years. A better fix is a Harken but ~$12 vrs $2K wins out every time. Garry http://www.99main.com/~elmergw/
E
Edward Kennedy
CDI Manual
I haven't been able to get the manual on my web site. If you need a copy, please e-mail me (edkennedy@edkennedy.net) and I will send a photocopy. Note, my book is for the old style CDI where the drum is part of the lower castings. The parts breakdown for the newer old style where the drum is separate from the lower casting is on CDI's website. From what I can find out, CDI designed the furler to mount on the lower stud of the turnbuckle. Hunter decided to raise it up to the upper stud, and this is the cause of the furling line guide turning and causing problems. I tied my guide to the bow pulpit, and had no problems since then.
I haven't been able to get the manual on my web site. If you need a copy, please e-mail me (edkennedy@edkennedy.net) and I will send a photocopy. Note, my book is for the old style CDI where the drum is part of the lower castings. The parts breakdown for the newer old style where the drum is separate from the lower casting is on CDI's website. From what I can find out, CDI designed the furler to mount on the lower stud of the turnbuckle. Hunter decided to raise it up to the upper stud, and this is the cause of the furling line guide turning and causing problems. I tied my guide to the bow pulpit, and had no problems since then.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.