I am installing 2 foot T tracks on my Hunter 23 to accomidate a new 150 Genoa. I will need to remove the fixed blocks that come with the boat. My questions are: 1) How do I plug the old holes from the blocks without making a huge mess? 2) Is there a preferred procedure for installing the new tracks with regards to sealer, etc? Thank you!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
L
LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners
epoxy
If we're just talking small screw holes, I would fill them with epoxy (make sure you tape underneath them if they're through-deck). If I had spare paint, I'd probably just touch the spots up once they're were fair with the rest of the deck. As far as the new holes are concerned, you should drill the holes double wide, tape underneath & fill with epoxy mixed with high desity filler. It should be thinner than peanut butter but not too runny. Use a syringe & squirt the goop into each hole till full but not over full. I used a small piece of plastic bag (saran wrap would work too) to cover the epoxy. This also flattens it out to the level of the deck. Let it cure & then drill the holes through the epoxy. This won't prevent leaks but will prevent water from getting into the coring. When you install the new hardware be sure to use something like 3M's 4200 (NOT 5200!). Don't be shy with the goop cuz it's much easier to clean up a small mess than have to rip the whole thing out cuz one hole leaks. LaDonna
If we're just talking small screw holes, I would fill them with epoxy (make sure you tape underneath them if they're through-deck). If I had spare paint, I'd probably just touch the spots up once they're were fair with the rest of the deck. As far as the new holes are concerned, you should drill the holes double wide, tape underneath & fill with epoxy mixed with high desity filler. It should be thinner than peanut butter but not too runny. Use a syringe & squirt the goop into each hole till full but not over full. I used a small piece of plastic bag (saran wrap would work too) to cover the epoxy. This also flattens it out to the level of the deck. Let it cure & then drill the holes through the epoxy. This won't prevent leaks but will prevent water from getting into the coring. When you install the new hardware be sure to use something like 3M's 4200 (NOT 5200!). Don't be shy with the goop cuz it's much easier to clean up a small mess than have to rip the whole thing out cuz one hole leaks. LaDonna
R
Ron Barrow
Additional Suggestion
LaDonna completely covered it, but if you like, a glass eye dropper works instead of the syringe. Be sure to use the glass veriety as plastic sometimes reacts with the epoxy. The main thing is to keep the epoxy under control. It is a mess to clean little drops off of the non-skid. Good Luck, RB
LaDonna completely covered it, but if you like, a glass eye dropper works instead of the syringe. Be sure to use the glass veriety as plastic sometimes reacts with the epoxy. The main thing is to keep the epoxy under control. It is a mess to clean little drops off of the non-skid. Good Luck, RB
T
Tom
LaDonna's right
... about oversized holes and using epoxy to seal the core. Before bedding the new hardware (3M 4200 is fine), I lay masking tape down around a footprint of the new hardware on the deck, as this makes cleaning up the bedding compound that oozes out easier. Use adequate backing plates, or at least fender washers (on a 23' boat that would be okay) on the inside of the deck, for your track installation. Don't completely tighten the fasteners for the hardware until the bedding cures a bit, but wait a day or two. The bedding acts as a gasket around the hardware and the fastener that penetrates the deck. If you completely tighten the nuts on the first day, all or most of the bedding will completely ooze out with very little left under the hardware to keep moisture out. Just make sure that when you finally tighten the fasteners, that you tighten the nut and not the bolt.
... about oversized holes and using epoxy to seal the core. Before bedding the new hardware (3M 4200 is fine), I lay masking tape down around a footprint of the new hardware on the deck, as this makes cleaning up the bedding compound that oozes out easier. Use adequate backing plates, or at least fender washers (on a 23' boat that would be okay) on the inside of the deck, for your track installation. Don't completely tighten the fasteners for the hardware until the bedding cures a bit, but wait a day or two. The bedding acts as a gasket around the hardware and the fastener that penetrates the deck. If you completely tighten the nuts on the first day, all or most of the bedding will completely ooze out with very little left under the hardware to keep moisture out. Just make sure that when you finally tighten the fasteners, that you tighten the nut and not the bolt.
J
Jim Willis
What is difference betwen 4200 and 5200?
I must be getting out of touch- I always used 5200 on my boat but its been a while since I put on track , pad eyes etc. Is 4200 a faster setting version? By the way, if you have IG Pink it is great for cleaning up 5200 whether cured or not and on clothing too. Thanks' Jim W
I must be getting out of touch- I always used 5200 on my boat but its been a while since I put on track , pad eyes etc. Is 4200 a faster setting version? By the way, if you have IG Pink it is great for cleaning up 5200 whether cured or not and on clothing too. Thanks' Jim W
Biggest difference is when you want to remove it.
Jim: I won't use 5200 on my boat. This is for PERMANENT attachment. Things like cleats, tracks, sheet stoppers, deck organizers, winches etc. need to be repaired or replaced from time to time. 5200 is like concrete. 4200 give you all of the qualities of 5200 without the chance of removing your gelcoat with the hardware. As far as I'm concerned I would only use 5200 on something like a bond between the keel and the hull or some other part that was/is not intended to come off. GE, Sikaflex, DAP, Lifecaulk and 3M all make excellent sealants that are just as good as 5200 for their intended use. I realize that Anti-bond is available to 'help' remove 5200, but there is no guarantee that you can get the Anti-bond into the area that needs to be removed.
Jim: I won't use 5200 on my boat. This is for PERMANENT attachment. Things like cleats, tracks, sheet stoppers, deck organizers, winches etc. need to be repaired or replaced from time to time. 5200 is like concrete. 4200 give you all of the qualities of 5200 without the chance of removing your gelcoat with the hardware. As far as I'm concerned I would only use 5200 on something like a bond between the keel and the hull or some other part that was/is not intended to come off. GE, Sikaflex, DAP, Lifecaulk and 3M all make excellent sealants that are just as good as 5200 for their intended use. I realize that Anti-bond is available to 'help' remove 5200, but there is no guarantee that you can get the Anti-bond into the area that needs to be removed.
T
Tom
4200 vs. 5200
I think they are both polyurethane-based, but 5200 is "permanent" (hard to remove and require using a special debonder), while 4200 is not permanent. 4200 is best for installing deck hardware, as that piece may someday have to be removed.
I think they are both polyurethane-based, but 5200 is "permanent" (hard to remove and require using a special debonder), while 4200 is not permanent. 4200 is best for installing deck hardware, as that piece may someday have to be removed.
L
LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners
Here's how I think of them
I think of 4200 as a "sealant" and 5200 as an "adhesive". Like everyone said, they're going to do pretty much the same thing till you try to remove the bedded item. Yikes! LaDonna
I think of 4200 as a "sealant" and 5200 as an "adhesive". Like everyone said, they're going to do pretty much the same thing till you try to remove the bedded item. Yikes! LaDonna
- Status
- Not open for further replies.