Please verify and/or correct the instructions below concerning lowering the mast on our 1993 Hunter 23.5. We have reversed the instructions for raising the mast found in our owners' manual. Does anyone have better instructions or step-by-step procedures for lowering and raising the mast? HELP! 1. Remove mainsail sheet, boom and mainsheet block. 2. Attach mast raising bridles into slots on mast and hook the pelican hook to eyes on the forward stanchion legs. Make sure that bridle wires are snug equally on port and starboard. 3. Install crutch in tube at stern of boat. 4. Attach mast raising tube. 5. Take the main sheet block assembly and connect the cam end to the V-volt in the anchor well and the other end to the forward loop on the mast lowering tube. 6. Attach jib halyard to aft loop of mast lowering tube. Cleat off jib halyard to cleat on mast. 7. Unpin mast from mast step. 8. Lower mast until the mast is resting in the mast crutch. 9. Make sure that side stays are connected to the “U” bolts as the mast is slowly lowered. Thanks for your help! Hope to see you on Pensacola Bay!
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Forestay
Ben, My only experience is with the H26 but it sounds like the systems are really similar. To lower the mast you have to remove the forestay, release tension on the forestay by hauling in on the main sheet setup (connected to the mast lowering pole), then remove the pin on the forestay. You shouldn't have to change the turnbuckle settings. I think you don't want to remove the mast base pin until after you lower the mast. This is what it pivots down on. Good luck, Jim Covey s/v Wampeter
Ben, My only experience is with the H26 but it sounds like the systems are really similar. To lower the mast you have to remove the forestay, release tension on the forestay by hauling in on the main sheet setup (connected to the mast lowering pole), then remove the pin on the forestay. You shouldn't have to change the turnbuckle settings. I think you don't want to remove the mast base pin until after you lower the mast. This is what it pivots down on. Good luck, Jim Covey s/v Wampeter
Mast Raising Tube
It's not hard, just a bit scarey. One thing to add to what you already know - make sure the mast raising tube is perpendicular to the mast when raising and lowering. Safer and better leverage.
It's not hard, just a bit scarey. One thing to add to what you already know - make sure the mast raising tube is perpendicular to the mast when raising and lowering. Safer and better leverage.
A couple of things.
Ben, I think step seven should be "take up the slack in the main sheet so that when the forestay is released the mast is held up". Also, don't unpin the mast hinge until the mast is down. I think you meant to say, unpin the forstay. It is a really sweet system for raising and lowering the mast. If there is any tricky part, it is making sure that the turnbuckles and shrouds don't get kinked. Take your time and don't rush it. There is one trick that I learned from this fourm that has made setting up and rigging for trailering a lot easier. Once the mast is down and in the trailering position, one has to secure the stays, lines and other items. Thanks to advice from this fourm, I now use duct tape and Saran wrap to secure all the loose items to the mast. The Saran wrap goes around first and keeps the sticky stuff on the duct tape from getting on the lines, mast and shrouds. It takes about five minutes to secure everything for trailering. When getting ready to launch, a sharp pocket knife frees up everthing in seconds. Al Beattie
Ben, I think step seven should be "take up the slack in the main sheet so that when the forestay is released the mast is held up". Also, don't unpin the mast hinge until the mast is down. I think you meant to say, unpin the forstay. It is a really sweet system for raising and lowering the mast. If there is any tricky part, it is making sure that the turnbuckles and shrouds don't get kinked. Take your time and don't rush it. There is one trick that I learned from this fourm that has made setting up and rigging for trailering a lot easier. Once the mast is down and in the trailering position, one has to secure the stays, lines and other items. Thanks to advice from this fourm, I now use duct tape and Saran wrap to secure all the loose items to the mast. The Saran wrap goes around first and keeps the sticky stuff on the duct tape from getting on the lines, mast and shrouds. It takes about five minutes to secure everything for trailering. When getting ready to launch, a sharp pocket knife frees up everthing in seconds. Al Beattie
Tape
The Saran Wrap is a good idea. I have been using electrical tape, it holds very well and doesnot leave any adhesive behind. I have been trying to figure out a slick way of securing the shrouds, anyone have any sugestions? Right now I just tape them to the lifeline as far foward as they will go. I have also been toying with the idea of using some PVC pipe to keep the turnbuckles on the shrouds straight up when raising the mast, anyone else done somthing similar?
The Saran Wrap is a good idea. I have been using electrical tape, it holds very well and doesnot leave any adhesive behind. I have been trying to figure out a slick way of securing the shrouds, anyone have any sugestions? Right now I just tape them to the lifeline as far foward as they will go. I have also been toying with the idea of using some PVC pipe to keep the turnbuckles on the shrouds straight up when raising the mast, anyone else done somthing similar?
Slick System
This mast raising is the nicest I've seen, and easily done by a single person. If a second person is available, they should be sure all the turnbuckles are straight and nothing is kinked or in the wrong place. My forestay turnbuckle got under the mast foot and snapped the casting. Since you're pulling on a 30' pole with a block and tackle, the mechanical advantage is awesome and so is the damage you can inflict. Take your time. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
This mast raising is the nicest I've seen, and easily done by a single person. If a second person is available, they should be sure all the turnbuckles are straight and nothing is kinked or in the wrong place. My forestay turnbuckle got under the mast foot and snapped the casting. Since you're pulling on a 30' pole with a block and tackle, the mechanical advantage is awesome and so is the damage you can inflict. Take your time. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
One more thing re: mast lowering
It may seem like a small thing, but dont forget, after the mast is disconnected at the base, to pull it up as far as you can so a crew member can remove the windex. Great sailing Bill W. "Renewal"
It may seem like a small thing, but dont forget, after the mast is disconnected at the base, to pull it up as far as you can so a crew member can remove the windex. Great sailing Bill W. "Renewal"
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