I will be installing a new Garhauer vang on my H340 Saturday. There are plates (with holes in it) that must be attached with screws to the mast and the boom. I rmemeber reading a post on another forum that implied that one should place x-ray film (I think) between the two dissimilar metals to prevent corrosion. Since I don't have any x-ray film handy, and IF this is really necessary (I'm on a fresh water lake), what would you place between the two metals that would prevent corrosion and be readily available at a hardware store? Thanks in advance for your help. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
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Nylon washers and tef-gel
Wynn: I drilled and tapped the mast and boom 1/4 x 20 tap/drill set (assuming you know how to do that). I placed nylon washers between the aluminum spar parts and the S.S. Garhauer parts. Then you can get some tef-gel from the marine store. This is suppose to prevent corrosion. Coat the bolts with the gel and screw them in.
Wynn: I drilled and tapped the mast and boom 1/4 x 20 tap/drill set (assuming you know how to do that). I placed nylon washers between the aluminum spar parts and the S.S. Garhauer parts. Then you can get some tef-gel from the marine store. This is suppose to prevent corrosion. Coat the bolts with the gel and screw them in.
D
Derek Rowell
There's nothing magic about x-ray film...
the important thing is to keep the dissimilar metals from having direct contact. Any plastic film/sheet will do. I've seen my yard smear a thin film of silicone as a gasket between stainless fittings and aluminum spars. Use an anti-corrosion gel on the screws as Steve suggests - that's important. Derek
the important thing is to keep the dissimilar metals from having direct contact. Any plastic film/sheet will do. I've seen my yard smear a thin film of silicone as a gasket between stainless fittings and aluminum spars. Use an anti-corrosion gel on the screws as Steve suggests - that's important. Derek
J
John Visser
tape and loctite
I use vinyl tape, the wide, white kind, and apply it to the back of the fitting, trimming with a raaazor blade, including cutting out the screw holes. I then drill and tap, in this case 1/4-28, the fine thread holding better in the relatively thin aluminum. I use a slightly smaller drill than the recommended tap drill. I then use Loctite Blue (242) on the threads, which locks them adn insulates them too. jv
I use vinyl tape, the wide, white kind, and apply it to the back of the fitting, trimming with a raaazor blade, including cutting out the screw holes. I then drill and tap, in this case 1/4-28, the fine thread holding better in the relatively thin aluminum. I use a slightly smaller drill than the recommended tap drill. I then use Loctite Blue (242) on the threads, which locks them adn insulates them too. jv
Actually I think that is what I used too!
John: Now that you mention it, I think that I also used 1/4 x 28 bolts. I used lock washers on the bolts. When you purchase the tap they have a chart for the propper size drill bit (something like .205?).
John: Now that you mention it, I think that I also used 1/4 x 28 bolts. I used lock washers on the bolts. When you purchase the tap they have a chart for the propper size drill bit (something like .205?).
T
Tom
Vang install
This is from Mark at Garhauer: Note that they have inadvertantly shipped units without directions. If you didn't get directions, call mark to have them sent. Phone: 909-946-6194 Place electrical tape on back of brackets as gasket to prevent corrosion. Compress vang fully for installtion. I compressed it then put a stop knot at the last block to keep it compessed. Install mast bracket first, as low as possible, but check for deck clearance with bottom, block, etc. (esp. if you have a hinged msat step for lowering/rasing mast) Then install boom bracket. Install with boom at lowest position (best if sail is up) or with boom level. Drill and tap: Note I dimpled/drilled/tapped the first hole and installed the bolt at one corner, then the second hole at the opposite side/corner. Then did the rest of bolts while the first two held the braket firmly in place. If you try to do them all together, you are less likely to have the holes line up right. 1. Using the bracket as a guide (I tied the bracket in place with a couple short lengths of line), use a 1/4 drill to just dimple the Mast/Boom in in center to make a guide --DONT DRILL DEEP. Drill through with #8 drill -- .199 inches dia. Then use a 1/4 -20 tap Take your time and think each step through, It isn't too difficult. Good luck, Tom
This is from Mark at Garhauer: Note that they have inadvertantly shipped units without directions. If you didn't get directions, call mark to have them sent. Phone: 909-946-6194 Place electrical tape on back of brackets as gasket to prevent corrosion. Compress vang fully for installtion. I compressed it then put a stop knot at the last block to keep it compessed. Install mast bracket first, as low as possible, but check for deck clearance with bottom, block, etc. (esp. if you have a hinged msat step for lowering/rasing mast) Then install boom bracket. Install with boom at lowest position (best if sail is up) or with boom level. Drill and tap: Note I dimpled/drilled/tapped the first hole and installed the bolt at one corner, then the second hole at the opposite side/corner. Then did the rest of bolts while the first two held the braket firmly in place. If you try to do them all together, you are less likely to have the holes line up right. 1. Using the bracket as a guide (I tied the bracket in place with a couple short lengths of line), use a 1/4 drill to just dimple the Mast/Boom in in center to make a guide --DONT DRILL DEEP. Drill through with #8 drill -- .199 inches dia. Then use a 1/4 -20 tap Take your time and think each step through, It isn't too difficult. Good luck, Tom
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