I've bought the 12v receptacle for plugging in vcr's,cellphones etc. Ihave a couple of questions: 1. It requires I drill a 1 1/8" hole in the fiberglass...do I need a special grit hole saw for the fiberglass? 2. Should I connect it to the vacant space on the switchboard-if so do I need an in-wire fuse? Thanks-Scott on "Hello Dolly"
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12V Plug
Scott, If you have a hole saw that is the correct, use it. The edges are covered up by the flange of the plug. If you don't, but have a Dremal Tool, drill a large enough hole to get the sanding drum in and just enlarge the hole enough for the plug to fit in. As far as hooking up the plug, it NEEDS to be fused. It dosen't matter if it is on a fused switch or in line fuse, as long as it is protected by the correct fuse size. Ben Allen Montgomery, AL "Wahoo" O'Day 26
Scott, If you have a hole saw that is the correct, use it. The edges are covered up by the flange of the plug. If you don't, but have a Dremal Tool, drill a large enough hole to get the sanding drum in and just enlarge the hole enough for the plug to fit in. As far as hooking up the plug, it NEEDS to be fused. It dosen't matter if it is on a fused switch or in line fuse, as long as it is protected by the correct fuse size. Ben Allen Montgomery, AL "Wahoo" O'Day 26
Drill.
Scott: I just did this on our Hunter. We used a 1-1/8" drill bit. Just drill slow and make sure you have the clearances before you start. You want to make sure that the wiring behind the mount is not going to be damaged by items shifting around inside of a cabinet etc. So if you can put it up high in a corner it would be better. As Ben mentioned, you will want to have it on a fused or circuit breaker line. Depending on the type you purchased, most of them come with an in-line fuse. I would use this in addition to the breaker. Be sure to protect your connections from grounding and corrosion before you wrap up the project.
Scott: I just did this on our Hunter. We used a 1-1/8" drill bit. Just drill slow and make sure you have the clearances before you start. You want to make sure that the wiring behind the mount is not going to be damaged by items shifting around inside of a cabinet etc. So if you can put it up high in a corner it would be better. As Ben mentioned, you will want to have it on a fused or circuit breaker line. Depending on the type you purchased, most of them come with an in-line fuse. I would use this in addition to the breaker. Be sure to protect your connections from grounding and corrosion before you wrap up the project.
Helpful hint
I did quite a bit of cutting on my interior last summer and one thing I learned the hard way, no matter how small the hole, was to cover or remove any nearby fabric. Throw the settee cushion in the v-berth, pull back or cover the carpet, etc. That fiberglass dust will fly quite a distance & sitting on FRG in shorts ain't pleasant!
LaDonna
I did quite a bit of cutting on my interior last summer and one thing I learned the hard way, no matter how small the hole, was to cover or remove any nearby fabric. Throw the settee cushion in the v-berth, pull back or cover the carpet, etc. That fiberglass dust will fly quite a distance & sitting on FRG in shorts ain't pleasant!
LaDonnaAnother Handy Tool
Scott, In additon to the Hole Saw and Dremmel prevously mentioned a good addition to your tool arsenal is a set of Drum Sanding bits/attachments for your power drill. With a set of these 1/2" to 3" for under $20 you can quickly make a 1" hole into that 1 1/8 for a cig lighter or whatever. Large hole saws are expensive and when you start adding instruments or whatever it allways seems they are just a little different size from what you have. A drum sander can also make a nice smooth hole out of a ruff one done with a sabre saw. Stan "Chisty Leigh" c320 #656
Scott, In additon to the Hole Saw and Dremmel prevously mentioned a good addition to your tool arsenal is a set of Drum Sanding bits/attachments for your power drill. With a set of these 1/2" to 3" for under $20 you can quickly make a 1" hole into that 1 1/8 for a cig lighter or whatever. Large hole saws are expensive and when you start adding instruments or whatever it allways seems they are just a little different size from what you have. A drum sander can also make a nice smooth hole out of a ruff one done with a sabre saw. Stan "Chisty Leigh" c320 #656
Safety first
Jan.31,2001 Dear Scott, This is probably obvious but remember to turn off the power to the panel before you start wiring. Put masking tape over the area you are going to cut, this helps prevent jagged edges. If you can have someone running a vacumn near the hole to pick up the fibreglass as you are sawing that will help keep the itchy dust under control. You don't need a special hole saw to saw through fibreglass, but you do need to tap any hole for screws because fibreglass is strong enough to snap off screw heads if you don't. If you don't have a 1 1/8" hole saw you can start the hole and work up to your largest bit and then relieve the rest of the material with a file, although this is a bit tedious. Make sure you mark the circumference of the hole first if you go this route. I am assuming the vacant space on the switchboard is on the 12 volt and not the shore power side. If that is the case it can be wired to the panel space available. Make sure you get the positive and negative leads straight. Some instrumnents are sensitive to polarity so check this carefully. And finally, yes the outlet needs to be fused, whether inline or at the panel is your choice. Good luck with your project. Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Jan.31,2001 Dear Scott, This is probably obvious but remember to turn off the power to the panel before you start wiring. Put masking tape over the area you are going to cut, this helps prevent jagged edges. If you can have someone running a vacumn near the hole to pick up the fibreglass as you are sawing that will help keep the itchy dust under control. You don't need a special hole saw to saw through fibreglass, but you do need to tap any hole for screws because fibreglass is strong enough to snap off screw heads if you don't. If you don't have a 1 1/8" hole saw you can start the hole and work up to your largest bit and then relieve the rest of the material with a file, although this is a bit tedious. Make sure you mark the circumference of the hole first if you go this route. I am assuming the vacant space on the switchboard is on the 12 volt and not the shore power side. If that is the case it can be wired to the panel space available. Make sure you get the positive and negative leads straight. Some instrumnents are sensitive to polarity so check this carefully. And finally, yes the outlet needs to be fused, whether inline or at the panel is your choice. Good luck with your project. Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Thanks everybody
Man, a guy asks for help, and he really gets it. I appreciate it. I have since found out they make a 12V receptacle with clamps that attach directly to your battery, which maybe could be used in the case of emergency. I notice it doesn't have a fuse attachment, maybe it doesn't matter with this setup, for some reason. Anyway, now I have both of them and am wondering if I should go through with the original project!
Man, a guy asks for help, and he really gets it. I appreciate it. I have since found out they make a 12V receptacle with clamps that attach directly to your battery, which maybe could be used in the case of emergency. I notice it doesn't have a fuse attachment, maybe it doesn't matter with this setup, for some reason. Anyway, now I have both of them and am wondering if I should go through with the original project!
Go through with it...
...Trust me, it's a WHOLE lot easier to get to the 12-volt socket that's conveniently mounted in the bulkhead than it is to get to the battery, string the cable, put the clamps on the battery, plug in your accessory, pull the clamp off the terminal while plugging in the accessory, re-connect the clamp, pull the accessory out of the socket, plug the accessory back in, trip over the cord while you try to get back to the cockpit... you get the picture. I've done it both ways, and HIGHLY recommend the permanently mounted setup, with the clamp-on style as a backup. Also, if the clamp-on that you have doesn't have a fuse, pitch it and get one that does- much safer that way. --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio'
...Trust me, it's a WHOLE lot easier to get to the 12-volt socket that's conveniently mounted in the bulkhead than it is to get to the battery, string the cable, put the clamps on the battery, plug in your accessory, pull the clamp off the terminal while plugging in the accessory, re-connect the clamp, pull the accessory out of the socket, plug the accessory back in, trip over the cord while you try to get back to the cockpit... you get the picture. I've done it both ways, and HIGHLY recommend the permanently mounted setup, with the clamp-on style as a backup. Also, if the clamp-on that you have doesn't have a fuse, pitch it and get one that does- much safer that way. --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio'
Paddle bit
Scott, I have done this many times with a paddle bit. Put tape on the gelcoat face of the fiberglass at the hole location. Take all the previous precautions ( turn off power,etc.). I use a 12 volt cordless drill on the first speed ( the slower speed). If you want you can drill a 1/8" pilot hole, but no bigger. Insert the 1 1/8" paddle bit ( speed bit). The bit I am talking about has a center point. The edges of the paddle are points also. Drill slowly with minimal pressure. Be sure you are square to the face you are drilling. The center of the bit will start drilling first. As it drills into the fiberglass the two outside points will start cutting into the fiberglass. This is where you take it real slow. Once your have cleared the gelcoat you can apply a bit more pressure. Don't forget keep it square. (If you use a hole saw keep it square also) You want to exit the hole slowly also. If the bit is not square it will bind and chip the gelcoat. Let the bit cut the hole don't force it. Another way is once you are through the gelcoat, drill from the back side to meet hole that you started from the face of the gelcoat. I would not try a speed bit on anything bigger than this hole. When you start drilling for instruments spend the money on a good hole saw. r.w.landau
Scott, I have done this many times with a paddle bit. Put tape on the gelcoat face of the fiberglass at the hole location. Take all the previous precautions ( turn off power,etc.). I use a 12 volt cordless drill on the first speed ( the slower speed). If you want you can drill a 1/8" pilot hole, but no bigger. Insert the 1 1/8" paddle bit ( speed bit). The bit I am talking about has a center point. The edges of the paddle are points also. Drill slowly with minimal pressure. Be sure you are square to the face you are drilling. The center of the bit will start drilling first. As it drills into the fiberglass the two outside points will start cutting into the fiberglass. This is where you take it real slow. Once your have cleared the gelcoat you can apply a bit more pressure. Don't forget keep it square. (If you use a hole saw keep it square also) You want to exit the hole slowly also. If the bit is not square it will bind and chip the gelcoat. Let the bit cut the hole don't force it. Another way is once you are through the gelcoat, drill from the back side to meet hole that you started from the face of the gelcoat. I would not try a speed bit on anything bigger than this hole. When you start drilling for instruments spend the money on a good hole saw. r.w.landau
Hole cutting with Roto-Zip.
All this discussion about drilling/cutting suitable holes through gelcoat and fiberglass prompts another question. Has anyone used a "Roto-Zip"? Got one for Christmas and have only tried it on sheetmetal thus far. Seems like the perfect tool for larger holes in fiberglass, e.g. speakers or gauges. If you haven't seen one it is a larger more powerful Dremmel but you cut with what looks like a drill bit. It comes with a depth attachment and you can add a 90 degree drive. The right-angle drive uses rotary blades for cutting and grinding, about 3" in diameter. It sure zips through heavy sheetmetal.
All this discussion about drilling/cutting suitable holes through gelcoat and fiberglass prompts another question. Has anyone used a "Roto-Zip"? Got one for Christmas and have only tried it on sheetmetal thus far. Seems like the perfect tool for larger holes in fiberglass, e.g. speakers or gauges. If you haven't seen one it is a larger more powerful Dremmel but you cut with what looks like a drill bit. It comes with a depth attachment and you can add a 90 degree drive. The right-angle drive uses rotary blades for cutting and grinding, about 3" in diameter. It sure zips through heavy sheetmetal.
Use a heavy gauge wire
You never know what you might be plugging up in the future, you might even buy one of those new weather windows I've been hearing about, I understand they draw a lot of current. I had to upgrade the wiring to 10 gauge when my wife got a 12 volt coffee maker for christmas.
You never know what you might be plugging up in the future, you might even buy one of those new weather windows I've been hearing about, I understand they draw a lot of current. I had to upgrade the wiring to 10 gauge when my wife got a 12 volt coffee maker for christmas.
Thanks again
Well, I've learned. I plan on going through with the project this weekend and will post the results of my effort in this column!
Well, I've learned. I plan on going through with the project this weekend and will post the results of my effort in this column!
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