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J
Jim
Did you call rudy???
Call D. and R. Marine Inc. There info is on this web site under "links". I replaced mine last April. That is where I got mine from. Jim
Call D. and R. Marine Inc. There info is on this web site under "links". I replaced mine last April. That is where I got mine from. Jim
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Scott Gurney
replacement tiller
I snapped my tiller at the very beginning of the season. It was original to the boat, a 1966 19'O'day Mariner, and had been heavily painted so I had not noticed that it was rotten under the hardware. Fortunately it snapped as I approached the mooring as I was skulling to catch the line. I tried to find one specific to the boat, but this proved difficult. I then tried finding a used replacement at local boatyards. They do not keep such things. I ended up removing the hardware that connects the tiller to the rudder (I think it is called the strap) and taking it to marine supply stores. I found that the only tillers available were for Catalina models. I found one that fit my hardware and bought it for $42. My old one was a bit longer and straight, and made from thick laminates of wood. The new one is curved up and back down and ends with a sort of ball shaped into the wood. It is very attractive, made with thinner wood laminates in alternating shades. I have found the new one to be superior to the old one, as the old one used to scrape on the back deck and the curve in the new one prevents this. I find the feeling of the new one to be more comfortable. The length does not seem to make much difference. I had to drill holes into the butt of the tiller to correspond with the hardware. Installing it only took about 45 minutes including the 15 minutes it took to paddle out to the boat from my garage where I did the drilling. You might find an original tiller, or a closer match. I did not want to wait more than a week to get it fixed. My wife was not so happy that I paid so much for a piece of wood, but find it comforting that at least I do not have to worry about that part of the boat breaking again. The next week I ripped my jib...
I snapped my tiller at the very beginning of the season. It was original to the boat, a 1966 19'O'day Mariner, and had been heavily painted so I had not noticed that it was rotten under the hardware. Fortunately it snapped as I approached the mooring as I was skulling to catch the line. I tried to find one specific to the boat, but this proved difficult. I then tried finding a used replacement at local boatyards. They do not keep such things. I ended up removing the hardware that connects the tiller to the rudder (I think it is called the strap) and taking it to marine supply stores. I found that the only tillers available were for Catalina models. I found one that fit my hardware and bought it for $42. My old one was a bit longer and straight, and made from thick laminates of wood. The new one is curved up and back down and ends with a sort of ball shaped into the wood. It is very attractive, made with thinner wood laminates in alternating shades. I have found the new one to be superior to the old one, as the old one used to scrape on the back deck and the curve in the new one prevents this. I find the feeling of the new one to be more comfortable. The length does not seem to make much difference. I had to drill holes into the butt of the tiller to correspond with the hardware. Installing it only took about 45 minutes including the 15 minutes it took to paddle out to the boat from my garage where I did the drilling. You might find an original tiller, or a closer match. I did not want to wait more than a week to get it fixed. My wife was not so happy that I paid so much for a piece of wood, but find it comforting that at least I do not have to worry about that part of the boat breaking again. The next week I ripped my jib...
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Stephen Blatchley
Help I need a tiller
I hav an O'Day 23, it came with a spare tiller. It is like the one discribed by Scott. I then found the same thing in West Marine they have them in 2 lengths in the store on Savannha Hyw in Charleston. If you have a West Marine near you and they do not have the tillers they may be able to get one from Charleaston. You would want the shorter of the two.
I hav an O'Day 23, it came with a spare tiller. It is like the one discribed by Scott. I then found the same thing in West Marine they have them in 2 lengths in the store on Savannha Hyw in Charleston. If you have a West Marine near you and they do not have the tillers they may be able to get one from Charleaston. You would want the shorter of the two.
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Josh
Which of the five??? (related link)
I wouldn't mind getting a new tiller. Mine is old and splitting a bit where it mounts to the rudder. A search on West Marine brought up five results with pictures. Of the five, one for each of the following, Lido 14, Santana 22/27, Catalina 22, Catilina 27, and Coronado 25/O'day 27, which one is the best for the O'day 22? Thanks, Josh
I wouldn't mind getting a new tiller. Mine is old and splitting a bit where it mounts to the rudder. A search on West Marine brought up five results with pictures. Of the five, one for each of the following, Lido 14, Santana 22/27, Catalina 22, Catilina 27, and Coronado 25/O'day 27, which one is the best for the O'day 22? Thanks, Josh
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Warren
Cheap Tiller
If you need the metal fitting that attaches to the top of the rudder, cll Rudy. I have found that a teak flag staff makes an excellent tiller for my "22". I purchased mine at West Marine and filed it down to fit the metal fitting.
If you need the metal fitting that attaches to the top of the rudder, cll Rudy. I have found that a teak flag staff makes an excellent tiller for my "22". I purchased mine at West Marine and filed it down to fit the metal fitting.
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Rich
OD 22 Replaced Tiller
Guys, one of the very first things I did on my '75 OD22 was to replace the seemingly original wooden split fork tiller. After scouring boat stores, internet, etc., I decided on a J22/J24 laminated wooden tiller--it's 43" long with a 7" rise at the forward end (clears my knees beautifully vs. old straight tiller). It seems like a really good length, too. I also bought some J22/J24 tiller stiffener straps. These are two bookend matched pieces of stainless angle iron that bolt onto the square butt end of the new tiller (like a sandwich) and there is one larger hole in the rear end of the straps to pass a new stainless 1/4" bolt through the rudder head. I also put some big nylon washers in-between the rudder head and straps to cut down on friction and to make it easier to lift the tiller to vertical position for tacks and when at mooring (so it's out of the way). I found these parts at APS (Annapolis Performance Sailing) [see related link]. They look very professional and work wonderfully. The price for whole project: $49.95 for tiller, $59.95 for pair of tiller stiffener straps and a few bucks more for s/h and stainless nylock nuts, bolts and washers. I'm sure some of you more gifted folks could probably craft these items in your shops for much less--I couldn't wait to do it myself and coughed up the bucks. I was also very afraid the ancient old-style forked tiller would break easily under stress--this new, updated/upgraded version is probably now one of the strongest things on the boat. Next time I'm at the harbor, I'll try to take a couple of photos of the finished project for those who might care to see what I'm babbling about. P.S.: Before I installed the new tiller and straps, I clamped the whole sandwich together with multiple clamps and ran my pivot bolt through the rudder head to make sure it was all lined up correctly and would look right when finished. I marked the holes to be drilled in the butt end of the tiller just in case my sandwich fell apart before I could drill my bolt holes. I also drilled those holes with a drill press to make sure they were straight and plumb. MOST IMPORTANTLY, this pre-fitting exercise allowed me to position the butt end of the tiller far back enough within the sandwich of straps so that the butt end of the tiller would rest perfectly on the built-in ledge/notch of the rudder head when all was installed. Doing that keeps the tiller from falling lower than horizontal and rubbing on the stern rail. If you plan to do this, go ahead and order your parts and I'll try to get my detailed photos posted here within a few days so that you can see exactly what I'm talkin about. P.P.S: Note especially, if you're going to order the tiller with the 7" rise from the website, their item #'s and descriptions are incorrectly reversed. You want the #HM112F tiller $50.95 (even though it says "wood tiller J24"). Trust me--I got the wrong one and had to send it back while waiting for the other one.
Guys, one of the very first things I did on my '75 OD22 was to replace the seemingly original wooden split fork tiller. After scouring boat stores, internet, etc., I decided on a J22/J24 laminated wooden tiller--it's 43" long with a 7" rise at the forward end (clears my knees beautifully vs. old straight tiller). It seems like a really good length, too. I also bought some J22/J24 tiller stiffener straps. These are two bookend matched pieces of stainless angle iron that bolt onto the square butt end of the new tiller (like a sandwich) and there is one larger hole in the rear end of the straps to pass a new stainless 1/4" bolt through the rudder head. I also put some big nylon washers in-between the rudder head and straps to cut down on friction and to make it easier to lift the tiller to vertical position for tacks and when at mooring (so it's out of the way). I found these parts at APS (Annapolis Performance Sailing) [see related link]. They look very professional and work wonderfully. The price for whole project: $49.95 for tiller, $59.95 for pair of tiller stiffener straps and a few bucks more for s/h and stainless nylock nuts, bolts and washers. I'm sure some of you more gifted folks could probably craft these items in your shops for much less--I couldn't wait to do it myself and coughed up the bucks. I was also very afraid the ancient old-style forked tiller would break easily under stress--this new, updated/upgraded version is probably now one of the strongest things on the boat. Next time I'm at the harbor, I'll try to take a couple of photos of the finished project for those who might care to see what I'm babbling about. P.S.: Before I installed the new tiller and straps, I clamped the whole sandwich together with multiple clamps and ran my pivot bolt through the rudder head to make sure it was all lined up correctly and would look right when finished. I marked the holes to be drilled in the butt end of the tiller just in case my sandwich fell apart before I could drill my bolt holes. I also drilled those holes with a drill press to make sure they were straight and plumb. MOST IMPORTANTLY, this pre-fitting exercise allowed me to position the butt end of the tiller far back enough within the sandwich of straps so that the butt end of the tiller would rest perfectly on the built-in ledge/notch of the rudder head when all was installed. Doing that keeps the tiller from falling lower than horizontal and rubbing on the stern rail. If you plan to do this, go ahead and order your parts and I'll try to get my detailed photos posted here within a few days so that you can see exactly what I'm talkin about. P.P.S: Note especially, if you're going to order the tiller with the 7" rise from the website, their item #'s and descriptions are incorrectly reversed. You want the #HM112F tiller $50.95 (even though it says "wood tiller J24"). Trust me--I got the wrong one and had to send it back while waiting for the other one.
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