Our H320 has developed a little play in the rudder. I was thinking chain strech but although I have not checked the free play seems to come from the rudder as the wheel itself responds with no play. When the wheel is held steady you can feel a slight knock of the rudder from side to side. Could it be bearings, cable strech or fulcrum? Figure I contact the forum for suggestions before I start checking.
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Seems like a common problem
Benny From the number of similar posts describing this symptom, it appeas to be a common problem solved by replacing the bearing (plastic material) on the rudder post. I believe there is only one so it's not difficult to find but requires droping the rudder. Although not the best fix, it may be possible to shim the rudder with a sleeve as a temp fix to avoid removing the rudder.
Benny From the number of similar posts describing this symptom, it appeas to be a common problem solved by replacing the bearing (plastic material) on the rudder post. I believe there is only one so it's not difficult to find but requires droping the rudder. Although not the best fix, it may be possible to shim the rudder with a sleeve as a temp fix to avoid removing the rudder.
Thanks
The boat is scheduled for a haulout to paint the bottom. Will take care of that rudder bearing at this time. Forgot about the archives. Thanks again.
The boat is scheduled for a haulout to paint the bottom. Will take care of that rudder bearing at this time. Forgot about the archives. Thanks again.
Rudder Play and Shim
Most boats, when they age, show signs of some rudder play. As to "how" much play is acceptable, perhaps, is open for debate. Personally, I shim my rudder post. It is easy, do it maybe once a year and seems to last that long.
Most boats, when they age, show signs of some rudder play. As to "how" much play is acceptable, perhaps, is open for debate. Personally, I shim my rudder post. It is easy, do it maybe once a year and seems to last that long.
Rack and pinion
What year boat do you have sounds too new for bearing wear,you should have rack and pinion steering. Take the floor off should only be two screws on rear of floor and slides out rear of boat and than check the steering linkage and see where play is really before you drop the rudder. You will need to remove the cockpit floor any way.
What year boat do you have sounds too new for bearing wear,you should have rack and pinion steering. Take the floor off should only be two screws on rear of floor and slides out rear of boat and than check the steering linkage and see where play is really before you drop the rudder. You will need to remove the cockpit floor any way.
West System
Get a copy of the West System "Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance". Follow the instructions in section 8 "Repairing Keels and Rudders". Did this on my H310 about 4 years ago and still better than when the boat was new. Tom S/V Miss Jenna
Get a copy of the West System "Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance". Follow the instructions in section 8 "Repairing Keels and Rudders". Did this on my H310 about 4 years ago and still better than when the boat was new. Tom S/V Miss Jenna
Nick the boat is a 2000 model acquired
in 2001. We sail all year long and in five years we have passed a lot of water under its keel. This boat gets great maintenance but also gets used a lot so I would not be surprised if it is worn bushings. Nevertheless I will take your advice and inspect under the cockpit sole. Thanks for your comments. Have been digging into the archives and there are a number of articles and links mentioning and leading to the West System of epoxy and graphite to build up worn shaft surfaces. Like Tom mentions repairs seem to last a long time. Will soon find out what the problem is as we are looking to get the boat ready for the next Bahama trip.
in 2001. We sail all year long and in five years we have passed a lot of water under its keel. This boat gets great maintenance but also gets used a lot so I would not be surprised if it is worn bushings. Nevertheless I will take your advice and inspect under the cockpit sole. Thanks for your comments. Have been digging into the archives and there are a number of articles and links mentioning and leading to the West System of epoxy and graphite to build up worn shaft surfaces. Like Tom mentions repairs seem to last a long time. Will soon find out what the problem is as we are looking to get the boat ready for the next Bahama trip.
Adjust your cable ...
is one of the things that I could suggest. I had a similar problem which was solved by adjusting the cables on both sides of the quadrant - maybe two turns on each side was all it took.
is one of the things that I could suggest. I had a similar problem which was solved by adjusting the cables on both sides of the quadrant - maybe two turns on each side was all it took.
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