I am thinking of replacing the Cruising Design Furler on my 37-c. Do any of you guys know the diameter of the Headstay on these boats? And the Inner Forestay? (I'm not at the boat right now, so I can't measure), and the manufacturer needs to know. I want to put the CD furler on the staysail...have any of you done that? It's 20 years old now, will I be able to take it apart and re-install it? I'd be interested if any of you have done this, and with what success?? Thanks
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Pretty sure it is 9/32", . . .
same as the backstay. My own H37C has a solid rod furler but later models used 1/4" for shrouds and runners but 9/32" for the forestay and backstay. Maybe someone who is absolutely certain will chime in. I do recall that a couple of fellows replaced all of theirs with 5/16" #316 stainless. If I were refitting I would definitely use 5/16".
same as the backstay. My own H37C has a solid rod furler but later models used 1/4" for shrouds and runners but 9/32" for the forestay and backstay. Maybe someone who is absolutely certain will chime in. I do recall that a couple of fellows replaced all of theirs with 5/16" #316 stainless. If I were refitting I would definitely use 5/16".
Mine where all 1/4"....
As Ed states, I replaced the 1/4" 304SS with 9/32' 316SS. This is as big as you can go before you have to use new attaching hardware on the mast and chainplates. The 5/16" rigging and terminals use larger clevis pins than the 1/4" and 9/32" rigging which means the terminal and mast hardware as well as the chainplates would have to be redrilled or replaced to accomodate the extra sizes. This will weaken them to the point they may not maintain their required load carring capacity with the larger hardware unless you upgrade them as well. You don't need to go any bigger than 9/32" The 37C is extremely well rigged for strength. Check your chainplates for cracking though, this has been a problem on some boats including mine. I went with larger chainplates to accomodate this but the fore and backstays are fine. I'll be happy to provide more info if you need it. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
As Ed states, I replaced the 1/4" 304SS with 9/32' 316SS. This is as big as you can go before you have to use new attaching hardware on the mast and chainplates. The 5/16" rigging and terminals use larger clevis pins than the 1/4" and 9/32" rigging which means the terminal and mast hardware as well as the chainplates would have to be redrilled or replaced to accomodate the extra sizes. This will weaken them to the point they may not maintain their required load carring capacity with the larger hardware unless you upgrade them as well. You don't need to go any bigger than 9/32" The 37C is extremely well rigged for strength. Check your chainplates for cracking though, this has been a problem on some boats including mine. I went with larger chainplates to accomodate this but the fore and backstays are fine. I'll be happy to provide more info if you need it. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
Mine Is!
I have 9/32" installed on my 1980 cutter. I am going up one size (5/16)due to a new Harken furler soon.
I have 9/32" installed on my 1980 cutter. I am going up one size (5/16)due to a new Harken furler soon.
Dave, got it figured?
I guess I didn't read your entire post the first time, just fixated on the wire size. The inner stay is almost certainly 1/4" so the CD should fit just fine. Do you have the mechanics of furling the staysail with the boom all figured out? Island Packet and other cutters do it but there are a lot of blocks and lines involved. I guess you could remove the boom and tack the staysail just like the yankee. But self-tacking is sure a nice feature. I'm not sure the admiral will let me buy a third new sail. Will you go with a new staysail or modify the existing?
I guess I didn't read your entire post the first time, just fixated on the wire size. The inner stay is almost certainly 1/4" so the CD should fit just fine. Do you have the mechanics of furling the staysail with the boom all figured out? Island Packet and other cutters do it but there are a lot of blocks and lines involved. I guess you could remove the boom and tack the staysail just like the yankee. But self-tacking is sure a nice feature. I'm not sure the admiral will let me buy a third new sail. Will you go with a new staysail or modify the existing?
How I'm Figurin'......And OBX Sailor......
That's just what I'm doing now, figuring. Got started when I saw an ad and letter in "Good Old Boat" about a Brazilian furler being imported and distributed in the US by a (seemingly knowledgeable)sailor. The rig he offers for the 37c costs $780, shipping included. This puts it in the ballpark for us. I can't see spending $2K+ to control a Yankee headsail. My plan (early in development) would be to move the CD furler to the inner forestay, take the staysail to a loft and have the hanks removed, possibly a new boltrope installed (if necessary), and have a cover sewn on. Then I'd rig the sail just as it is; on the boom with an outhaul car and the necessary blocks to bring the control line to the cockpit. At this point I don't know if I'll have to keep the foot of the sail riding in the groove on the boom, or just let it fly free. See any glaring errors? I'd appreciate it if you see anything lurking to foul me up, pass it on to me. Also, any opinions on the Alado unit???? Thanks
That's just what I'm doing now, figuring. Got started when I saw an ad and letter in "Good Old Boat" about a Brazilian furler being imported and distributed in the US by a (seemingly knowledgeable)sailor. The rig he offers for the 37c costs $780, shipping included. This puts it in the ballpark for us. I can't see spending $2K+ to control a Yankee headsail. My plan (early in development) would be to move the CD furler to the inner forestay, take the staysail to a loft and have the hanks removed, possibly a new boltrope installed (if necessary), and have a cover sewn on. Then I'd rig the sail just as it is; on the boom with an outhaul car and the necessary blocks to bring the control line to the cockpit. At this point I don't know if I'll have to keep the foot of the sail riding in the groove on the boom, or just let it fly free. See any glaring errors? I'd appreciate it if you see anything lurking to foul me up, pass it on to me. Also, any opinions on the Alado unit???? Thanks
Furler + boom
When you furl the sail, you will need to release the outhaul so that the outhaul slug at the clew can slide along the boom. A side effect when furling is that the boom will end up tight against the furled sail & stay when it's fully furled. (This is all because the angle that the sail makes at the tack is not a 90 degree angle. The clew wants to ride upwards as well as inwards towards the furler. Remember, this is not a mainsail...) It won't furl at all if you use a bolt rope for the foot of the sail -- the foot will want to bunch up in the boom track as it's furled and as the boom rises. You could use slugs on the foot, I guess, but perhaps a loose-footed sail would be best. A complication: if the outhaul is led aft, make sure that the rising angle of the boom doesn't interfere with its operation.
When you furl the sail, you will need to release the outhaul so that the outhaul slug at the clew can slide along the boom. A side effect when furling is that the boom will end up tight against the furled sail & stay when it's fully furled. (This is all because the angle that the sail makes at the tack is not a 90 degree angle. The clew wants to ride upwards as well as inwards towards the furler. Remember, this is not a mainsail...) It won't furl at all if you use a bolt rope for the foot of the sail -- the foot will want to bunch up in the boom track as it's furled and as the boom rises. You could use slugs on the foot, I guess, but perhaps a loose-footed sail would be best. A complication: if the outhaul is led aft, make sure that the rising angle of the boom doesn't interfere with its operation.
Staysail furling.
Doug pretty well describes my concerns with keeping the boom. Almost definitely you have to go loose-footed. I guess you'll have to sit on the deck of an IP with your sketchboard.
As for the Alado it really looks good in the drawing, especially for that price. There are some really nice design features. I hope the price lasts until you can tell us all about it. I'd feel much better if I had that furler over a real 5/16" headstay. Instead of a 23 year old solid rod furler I mean.
Doug pretty well describes my concerns with keeping the boom. Almost definitely you have to go loose-footed. I guess you'll have to sit on the deck of an IP with your sketchboard.
As for the Alado it really looks good in the drawing, especially for that price. There are some really nice design features. I hope the price lasts until you can tell us all about it. I'd feel much better if I had that furler over a real 5/16" headstay. Instead of a 23 year old solid rod furler I mean.Alado furler
Just a comment on the Alado furler: It's design is very, very similar to old CDI models -- no bearings, no swivels, halyards led down to the drum... There are some differences: foils fit together better, have aerodynamic shape, and support two sails, the drum is aluminum instead of plastic, etc., but the basic design is the same. I had one of those old CDIs and wasn't really thrilled with it. Maybe it was just because it WAS old, but without bearings, it became hard to turn. The polypropolene bushing that holds up the drum just doesn't have the same friction characteristics as ball or roller bearings. It also never really "felt" very solid or reliable. *shrug* If you DO buy one keep us informed on how well it works! It sure looks easy to install!
Just a comment on the Alado furler: It's design is very, very similar to old CDI models -- no bearings, no swivels, halyards led down to the drum... There are some differences: foils fit together better, have aerodynamic shape, and support two sails, the drum is aluminum instead of plastic, etc., but the basic design is the same. I had one of those old CDIs and wasn't really thrilled with it. Maybe it was just because it WAS old, but without bearings, it became hard to turn. The polypropolene bushing that holds up the drum just doesn't have the same friction characteristics as ball or roller bearings. It also never really "felt" very solid or reliable. *shrug* If you DO buy one keep us informed on how well it works! It sure looks easy to install!
headstay 37
the diameter is 9/32, pin size 1/2 on the headstay. I just replaced my CD with a pro furl. I was unable to get my CD apart just slid off the stay. Mine was not worth keeping.
the diameter is 9/32, pin size 1/2 on the headstay. I just replaced my CD with a pro furl. I was unable to get my CD apart just slid off the stay. Mine was not worth keeping.
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