I just retuned my rig and found that tensioning the headstay (using the turnbuckle in the anchor locker) is a royal pain. Does this have to be done every time the mast is raised? Can the headstay be disconnected from the bow fitting with tension on the backstay and shrouds, or do they have to be loosened too? Do the shrouds have to be loosened to raise and lower the mast? I am about to start trailering the boat (it has been in the water ever since I bought it) and my experience with the headstay was not encouraging. I have owned other trailerable sailboats and am OK with turnbuckles, but the H23 headstay attachment is the least user-friendly I have ever had to deal with. I keep getting the feeling that I am overlooking something very simple, but I can't figure out what it is. Help! Peter s/v Raven
Headstay/mast raising questions
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Cliff Ruckstuhl
Use the Halyard.
Peter WhatI did and still do with the 25.5 is attach the jib halyard to the snapshakle where you put the tack of the jib and crank on the jib halyard with the winch. This will tighten the rig up enough that you can then attach the forstay. You may have to make a few turns on the turn buckle but not many. Cliff
Peter WhatI did and still do with the 25.5 is attach the jib halyard to the snapshakle where you put the tack of the jib and crank on the jib halyard with the winch. This will tighten the rig up enough that you can then attach the forstay. You may have to make a few turns on the turn buckle but not many. Cliff
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Al Ingersoll
here's what i do
i just got my 1994 23.5 and have raised and lowered the mast several times i am able to tighten the jib halyard using the mainsheet block and tackle and the rest of it, according to the plan, and have been able to tighten it enough that way to put just enough slack in the forestay to take the shackle pin out i have never messed with the turnbuckle and have never messed with the shrouds either for the loose forestay and the shrouds and everything else, i just loosely bundle them and bungie them together on the deck, wherever they cross or lie together and i have towed the boat as much as 700 miles in one trip that way with no ill effects all you have to do, when you get ready to put the mast back up, is make sure the shrouds lead true and their shackles are not kinked or something
i just got my 1994 23.5 and have raised and lowered the mast several times i am able to tighten the jib halyard using the mainsheet block and tackle and the rest of it, according to the plan, and have been able to tighten it enough that way to put just enough slack in the forestay to take the shackle pin out i have never messed with the turnbuckle and have never messed with the shrouds either for the loose forestay and the shrouds and everything else, i just loosely bundle them and bungie them together on the deck, wherever they cross or lie together and i have towed the boat as much as 700 miles in one trip that way with no ill effects all you have to do, when you get ready to put the mast back up, is make sure the shrouds lead true and their shackles are not kinked or something
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Gregory Stebbins
1 little trick
Peter, I replaced the bottom pin in the forstay turnbuckle with a captive pin (horse shoe) shackle. It's easer to install the shackle down in the well as you can do it blind and everything you need stays together. Greg
Peter, I replaced the bottom pin in the forstay turnbuckle with a captive pin (horse shoe) shackle. It's easer to install the shackle down in the well as you can do it blind and everything you need stays together. Greg
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Jerry
Raising & Lowering the Mast on a 23
Peter, I put a toggle on one side of the backstay so I can disconnect the backstay easily. [The backstay goes through my sunshade.] That takes some tension off the forstay. I put a 4:1 vang from the jib halyard to the shackle where the jib connects and put enough tension on the jib halyard to remove the pin from the forstay. I normally change the tension via the backstay. NOTE: On my '85 model, you can't lower the mast all the way to the mast crutch without crushing the hatch cover. I made a 2nd crutch that catches the mast about 3ft higher. I also attach a 6ft stiff-leg at right angles to the base of the mast so the tension in the jib halyard isn't too much as the mast approaches the crutch. I use the hunter crutch when towing. I would suggest that you have someone who's done it help you the first time (if you can). Thats a 60lb stick with a lot of lever-arm.
Peter, I put a toggle on one side of the backstay so I can disconnect the backstay easily. [The backstay goes through my sunshade.] That takes some tension off the forstay. I put a 4:1 vang from the jib halyard to the shackle where the jib connects and put enough tension on the jib halyard to remove the pin from the forstay. I normally change the tension via the backstay. NOTE: On my '85 model, you can't lower the mast all the way to the mast crutch without crushing the hatch cover. I made a 2nd crutch that catches the mast about 3ft higher. I also attach a 6ft stiff-leg at right angles to the base of the mast so the tension in the jib halyard isn't too much as the mast approaches the crutch. I use the hunter crutch when towing. I would suggest that you have someone who's done it help you the first time (if you can). Thats a 60lb stick with a lot of lever-arm.
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Dave Condon
Ugh!
I remember when that boat came out and attaching the forestay in the anchor well left me cussing. One evening, I tied a rope,oops I should have called it a line and went down into the woods to partake of the local finest water from my next door neighbor. Customer sneaked up on me the next day and I had some explanation but with a sever impairment frrom the night before sippin on moonshine, I had some tall explaining. Peter, on the serious side, You might want to do some changes for the forestay. Purchase two stainless tangs or long metal straps and secure them to the base in the anchor well. They need to be long enough to protrude just above the anchor well. To keep them seperated a little, use a pin or bolt just below the top clevis pin attachment and use several washers between the tangs and tighten. shorten your forestay and use for example a norseman swagless terminal fitting which will fit onto the turnbucle. The bottom of the stud of the turnbuckle should be attached to the top of the two tangs just protruding above the anchor well. On the 240,23.5, 260, etc., there are no backstays which make it alot easier to pull the mast forward using a block and tackle for example the mainsheet. Jerry mentioned using a quick release shroud lever on the split backstay which would release tension and that is a good idea. I realize it may cost a little but hopefully, these suggestions might help you. Good luck and thank you for your imput in the past. One other thing, check the wheel bearings and fender attachements if you have a KWS or Ken's Welding trailer. Also, if you do or do not have brakes, do not go over 55 or you will feel the trailer swaying if only one axle. If for any reason should the trailer start to whip, speed up a little to stop the swaying and then back down slowly if there are no brakes. Happy sailing my friend from Crazy Dave
I remember when that boat came out and attaching the forestay in the anchor well left me cussing. One evening, I tied a rope,oops I should have called it a line and went down into the woods to partake of the local finest water from my next door neighbor. Customer sneaked up on me the next day and I had some explanation but with a sever impairment frrom the night before sippin on moonshine, I had some tall explaining. Peter, on the serious side, You might want to do some changes for the forestay. Purchase two stainless tangs or long metal straps and secure them to the base in the anchor well. They need to be long enough to protrude just above the anchor well. To keep them seperated a little, use a pin or bolt just below the top clevis pin attachment and use several washers between the tangs and tighten. shorten your forestay and use for example a norseman swagless terminal fitting which will fit onto the turnbucle. The bottom of the stud of the turnbuckle should be attached to the top of the two tangs just protruding above the anchor well. On the 240,23.5, 260, etc., there are no backstays which make it alot easier to pull the mast forward using a block and tackle for example the mainsheet. Jerry mentioned using a quick release shroud lever on the split backstay which would release tension and that is a good idea. I realize it may cost a little but hopefully, these suggestions might help you. Good luck and thank you for your imput in the past. One other thing, check the wheel bearings and fender attachements if you have a KWS or Ken's Welding trailer. Also, if you do or do not have brakes, do not go over 55 or you will feel the trailer swaying if only one axle. If for any reason should the trailer start to whip, speed up a little to stop the swaying and then back down slowly if there are no brakes. Happy sailing my friend from Crazy Dave
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