PROBLEM STARTED TWO WEEKS AGO. PUMPING THE HEAD NORMALLY WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN IT JUST WOULD'NT PUMP. THE HANDLE WAS LOOSE AND NOTHING WAS REMOVED FROM THE BOWL. TURNS OUT THE FLAPPER VALVE UNDER THE PUMP HAD DISASSEMBLED ITSELF ALLOWING WASTE TO TRAVEL BACK AND FORTH BETWEEN THE BOWL AND PUMP BUT NOWHERE ELSE. FIXED THAT. THOUGHT I HAD IT MADE. WRONG. NOW IT SEEMED THE DISCHARGE HOSE IS CLOGGED. I GET MY SMALL SNAKE AND CLEAN IT OUT. NOTHING IN THERE. NO CLOG. THE TANKS NOT FULL EITHER. IT WILL PUMP BUT VERY SLOW. AS IF THE HOSE IS CLOGGED. I TRIED MURIATIC ACID. NOTHING.I CAN GET ABOUT 5-6 PUMPS BEFORE IT SLOWS DOWN.ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THIS IS NOT THE WAY TO SPEND A WEEKEND.
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Throw the !@#$%HEAD away.
Dennis: If the problem is the head and not the plumbing, you may be better off just throwing the !@#$%HEAD away and buying a new one. If you go ultra cheap (as I did) I just got one of the Jabsco's and it works fine. Otherwise go to a good one that you won't have trouble with like the RaritanCricket or other higher quality units.
Dennis: If the problem is the head and not the plumbing, you may be better off just throwing the !@#$%HEAD away and buying a new one. If you go ultra cheap (as I did) I just got one of the Jabsco's and it works fine. Otherwise go to a good one that you won't have trouble with like the RaritanCricket or other higher quality units.
Dennis: Check the Vent..
..had a similar problem and it turned out the vent hose was clogged. Did exactly as you described. Take the hose off the tank and try it or blow a shop vac in reverse to see if it is free or not. Good luck. Rick D.
..had a similar problem and it turned out the vent hose was clogged. Did exactly as you described. Take the hose off the tank and try it or blow a shop vac in reverse to see if it is free or not. Good luck. Rick D.
!@#$% Head
Most manual marine toilets have a "joker" (duckbill) valve in the discharge fitting where the large discharge hose connects. That's the first place I'd check - could be part of the flapper valve that fell apart caught in the joker valve, then some paper caught on that, and next thing you know, you've got a clog. Snaking the hose won't solve that problem; you need to remove the fitting (with the large discharge hose still attached) and examine the joker valve inside the fitting - remove any detritus and reassemble - you're done! This, incidentally, is the most common place for a manual marine toilet to develop a clog - in the discharge joker valve.
Most manual marine toilets have a "joker" (duckbill) valve in the discharge fitting where the large discharge hose connects. That's the first place I'd check - could be part of the flapper valve that fell apart caught in the joker valve, then some paper caught on that, and next thing you know, you've got a clog. Snaking the hose won't solve that problem; you need to remove the fitting (with the large discharge hose still attached) and examine the joker valve inside the fitting - remove any detritus and reassemble - you're done! This, incidentally, is the most common place for a manual marine toilet to develop a clog - in the discharge joker valve.
What make/model is the toilet?
If it's a Jabsco manual, you've been the victim of two very common problems--first a failed flapper valve, and no--I suspect, a failed dry/flush valve. When the dry/flush valve fails, it hangs up...creating what feels like a blockage in the discharge line, but is in fact backpressure from the intake side because the valve is stuck. My advice: don't fight with any more...get thee to WM, B/US or whatever is most convenient and replace the toilet. My recommendation: either a Raritan PH II or (as longas you have to replace the toilet, now is as good a time as any to to upgrade to electric "push button" convenience) the new Raritan Sea Era. You can check 'em both out on the Raritan website at: http://www.raritaneng.com And I'll be glad to answer any questions about either of these toilets..or any others you might decide to consider. Oh...btw...please turn off your caps lock? Using all caps online is SHOUTING. Then again, under the circumstances, maybe you meant to shout?
If it's a Jabsco manual, you've been the victim of two very common problems--first a failed flapper valve, and no--I suspect, a failed dry/flush valve. When the dry/flush valve fails, it hangs up...creating what feels like a blockage in the discharge line, but is in fact backpressure from the intake side because the valve is stuck. My advice: don't fight with any more...get thee to WM, B/US or whatever is most convenient and replace the toilet. My recommendation: either a Raritan PH II or (as longas you have to replace the toilet, now is as good a time as any to to upgrade to electric "push button" convenience) the new Raritan Sea Era. You can check 'em both out on the Raritan website at: http://www.raritaneng.com And I'll be glad to answer any questions about either of these toilets..or any others you might decide to consider. Oh...btw...please turn off your caps lock? Using all caps online is SHOUTING. Then again, under the circumstances, maybe you meant to shout?
$%&*(#@)!HEAD
West or Boat US sell rebuild kits for the pumps and valves on the toilets. Before buying a whole toilet you might only need a few parts. Of course wear heavy rubber gloves when working on it and have a few gallons of bleach to take a bath in when you get done. Also wear goggles and a respirator made for fumes and vapors. Nothing worse than a big splash in the face while fixing a broken toilet. good luck on the repairs the rebuild kits are about 30% the cost of a new toilet so you need to factor the value of your time versus your money. Generally the seat, bowl base etc will last forever, it is the moving parts and seals that wear out and break.
West or Boat US sell rebuild kits for the pumps and valves on the toilets. Before buying a whole toilet you might only need a few parts. Of course wear heavy rubber gloves when working on it and have a few gallons of bleach to take a bath in when you get done. Also wear goggles and a respirator made for fumes and vapors. Nothing worse than a big splash in the face while fixing a broken toilet. good luck on the repairs the rebuild kits are about 30% the cost of a new toilet so you need to factor the value of your time versus your money. Generally the seat, bowl base etc will last forever, it is the moving parts and seals that wear out and break.
Dave, his problem can't be fixed with rebuild kit
Rebuild kits don't include dry/flush valves. By the time he spends $40+ for a rebuild kit, plus the cost of a dry/flush valve assembly, he's more than half-way to the price of a toilet that BOAT/US regularly puts on sale for $99. An entire replacement pump assembly is 90% of the cost of the same Jabsco toilet (sometimes more if the toilet's on sale)--with no guarantee that it won't have the same problems as the old ones...'cuz for the past couple of years Jabsco toilets have had a rash of both flapper valve and dry/flush valves. I wouldn't put a dime into it. I'd replace it with a better toilet.
Rebuild kits don't include dry/flush valves. By the time he spends $40+ for a rebuild kit, plus the cost of a dry/flush valve assembly, he's more than half-way to the price of a toilet that BOAT/US regularly puts on sale for $99. An entire replacement pump assembly is 90% of the cost of the same Jabsco toilet (sometimes more if the toilet's on sale)--with no guarantee that it won't have the same problems as the old ones...'cuz for the past couple of years Jabsco toilets have had a rash of both flapper valve and dry/flush valves. I wouldn't put a dime into it. I'd replace it with a better toilet.
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