head redo
- Thread starter ktm500mx
- Start date
- Status
Any chance you could provide a little more detail?
Does "redoing the head" mean replacing the toilet, redoing the whole system...or just redecorating the room?
Seriously..."I'm redoing my head including hoses" is a pretty broad statement. I'll be glad to help you sort out how to do it, but I need to know exactly what it is you want to do.
However, I can already tell you that if you're gonna keep the boat on the Chesapeake, there's no point in installing a diverter valve anywhere in the system..'cuz you won't be able to use it. It's illegal to flush a toilet or dump a tank in the Bay. You'd have to be in open ocean at least 3 miles from the nearest point on the whole US coastline.
Otoh, I agree with your choice of hose.
That's about all the advise I can offer without knowing more about what you plan to include in your project.
Does "redoing the head" mean replacing the toilet, redoing the whole system...or just redecorating the room?
Seriously..."I'm redoing my head including hoses" is a pretty broad statement. I'll be glad to help you sort out how to do it, but I need to know exactly what it is you want to do.
However, I can already tell you that if you're gonna keep the boat on the Chesapeake, there's no point in installing a diverter valve anywhere in the system..'cuz you won't be able to use it. It's illegal to flush a toilet or dump a tank in the Bay. You'd have to be in open ocean at least 3 miles from the nearest point on the whole US coastline.
Otoh, I agree with your choice of hose.
That's about all the advise I can offer without knowing more about what you plan to include in your project.
hunter 31 head re-do
I am compeletly rebuilding the waste system new hoses and rebuilding current head. the new hose is much greater diameter then the old so
some cutting of the liner is in order in the head and under the sink and
in the cabiin for the manual off shore pump out. this boat does see offshore so I will be keeping the diverter setup. I am looking to see if some of the other peeps have done this before and pickup a few shortcuts from them
like should I remove the sink and cabinet to gain acess to the liner under the sink. and how do you remove it? peggy I have read many of your posts and I have ordered parts on your approved list.
thx in advance Mike:neutral:
I am compeletly rebuilding the waste system new hoses and rebuilding current head. the new hose is much greater diameter then the old so
some cutting of the liner is in order in the head and under the sink and
in the cabiin for the manual off shore pump out. this boat does see offshore so I will be keeping the diverter setup. I am looking to see if some of the other peeps have done this before and pickup a few shortcuts from them
like should I remove the sink and cabinet to gain acess to the liner under the sink. and how do you remove it? peggy I have read many of your posts and I have ordered parts on your approved list.
thx in advance Mike:neutral:
Two questions:
Is your tank metal or plastic? If metal, now if the time to replace it.
What's the make/model/age of the toilet? It may make more economic sense in the long run to replace it instead of rebuild it.
Is your tank metal or plastic? If metal, now if the time to replace it.
What's the make/model/age of the toilet? It may make more economic sense in the long run to replace it instead of rebuild it.
1. Ask Peggie which hose is the most flexible and will easily adapt to the tank and outlet fittings.
2. Remove the door/frame under the vberth to gain some additional space.
3. Get some lube like the electricians use to pull wires through conduit for the hoses through the narrow passages.
4. One of the worst hoses is the one that is for the deck pumpout (good luck).
5. If you have an older WM catalog they have their preferred method to replumb the system. The original system had the option of direct overboard discharge. Their preferred method only allows for all waste to be pumped into the tank and then you can them pump overboard or throught he deck fitting.
6. Be sure to have gloves, because your hands are probably going to shreaded by the time you are done.
7. Be sure that you have some fans available for ventilation.
8. Plan on 8-16 hrs for this job. It cost me over $500 to have this done over 12 years ago.
PS: Don't think it is worth using any PVC for the short "straight" runs that are involved. Most of the run is very short pieces and then you need additional fittings that will increase the cost even more.
2. Remove the door/frame under the vberth to gain some additional space.
3. Get some lube like the electricians use to pull wires through conduit for the hoses through the narrow passages.
4. One of the worst hoses is the one that is for the deck pumpout (good luck).
5. If you have an older WM catalog they have their preferred method to replumb the system. The original system had the option of direct overboard discharge. Their preferred method only allows for all waste to be pumped into the tank and then you can them pump overboard or throught he deck fitting.
6. Be sure to have gloves, because your hands are probably going to shreaded by the time you are done.
7. Be sure that you have some fans available for ventilation.
8. Plan on 8-16 hrs for this job. It cost me over $500 to have this done over 12 years ago.
PS: Don't think it is worth using any PVC for the short "straight" runs that are involved. Most of the run is very short pieces and then you need additional fittings that will increase the cost even more.
Good luck with the refit Mike.
Steve makes a good point about the runs (pardon the pun) being to short for pvc.
Anyway let us know how it turns out.
Don
Steve makes a good point about the runs (pardon the pun) being to short for pvc.
Anyway let us know how it turns out.
Don
head re-do
I finnished oh my what a job. steve was right the worst hose was the deck pump out. I removed the sink to free up space to work and that helped.
redrilling the holes for the larger hose was a pain. but thanks peggy and the rest of you guys the work is done. no more big projects untill all the cuts heal on my hands and arms.
thx Mike
I finnished oh my what a job. steve was right the worst hose was the deck pump out. I removed the sink to free up space to work and that helped.
redrilling the holes for the larger hose was a pain. but thanks peggy and the rest of you guys the work is done. no more big projects untill all the cuts heal on my hands and arms.
thx Mike
Mike: Congratulations. How long do you think that took? Some of these things could have been made a lot easier, but it is what it is and that is all you had to work with.
PS: did you miss #6?
PS: did you miss #6?
Mike,
Looking to to the same on my old Hunter 30. I even have the new head in the garage awaiting the day. What tools did you use to remove the old waste hoses... did a strap wrench work? Did you use heat to soften the hose ends in order to install or did you use KY jelly or something. This is the ONE job I'm not looking forward to. Any advice for the faint hearted?
Looking to to the same on my old Hunter 30. I even have the new head in the garage awaiting the day. What tools did you use to remove the old waste hoses... did a strap wrench work? Did you use heat to soften the hose ends in order to install or did you use KY jelly or something. This is the ONE job I'm not looking forward to. Any advice for the faint hearted?
Mike: Good for you! This is a job that no one appreciates unless they were there when it stunk. Hopefully this is the last time you will need to do this on this boat.
I have the same boat and model year and replaced the head hoses with the Trident 102. Peggy's tips helped too.
The most difficult part of the job was making the bend under the cabinet. I used a Dremmel to make the hole wide enough to feed the hose through at the bend and through the shelf in the cabinet. Finally, with one person pushing the hose from the top and another working the bend the hose went into place. I also used the Dremmel to widen the hole in the deck, just enough to make room for the hose clamps. The Trident being wider that the old hose.
I used a heat gun to soften the hose-end and used some KY to help attach the hose. I am on a lake so I ended up removing the y valve.
The most difficult part of the job was making the bend under the cabinet. I used a Dremmel to make the hole wide enough to feed the hose through at the bend and through the shelf in the cabinet. Finally, with one person pushing the hose from the top and another working the bend the hose went into place. I also used the Dremmel to widen the hole in the deck, just enough to make room for the hose clamps. The Trident being wider that the old hose.
I used a heat gun to soften the hose-end and used some KY to help attach the hose. I am on a lake so I ended up removing the y valve.
- Status