The door to the head comparment keeps coming off the sliding track which is on the top. I have adjusted both the track and the wheels but it keeps popping out. I have considered removing it which seems quite a task and replacing it with a folding curtain but would like to fix it if possible. It would seem to me this would be a common problem as these boats age so any ideas or posible solutions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Head Door
- Thread starter Benny17441
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john
Do you have a piece of wood trim which
covers the rail? This piece should hold the wheels on the track. Is yours missing?
covers the rail? This piece should hold the wheels on the track. Is yours missing?
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Bob
I am not sure if yourboat is the same as our 30, but my track is pretty beat up and I am going to replace it. Home depot sells a pocket door track which is for a 36 inch door, and it will have to be shortened to fit, but I am sure it will work.
John I have a trim piece of wood which covers the track from sight, but it does not prevent the wheels from coming of the track. I have a feeling yours may have been modified and to add such a piece of wood to the back of the trim piece may be something to think about. If not I will consider replacing the track with a Home Depot design. Keep ideas coming, thanks. Benny
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chris
don't want to sound like a pessamist
but when I read your post the first thought in my mind was "uh-oh, does he have the dreaded mast deck compression..." I only mention this because before I purchased my current boat I looked at the same model and the head door was having problems. Upon further investigation I realized it was from mast deck compression. The seller told me "oh thats an easy fix!" but I immediately moved on. Just something to check... Chris
but when I read your post the first thought in my mind was "uh-oh, does he have the dreaded mast deck compression..." I only mention this because before I purchased my current boat I looked at the same model and the head door was having problems. Upon further investigation I realized it was from mast deck compression. The seller told me "oh thats an easy fix!" but I immediately moved on. Just something to check... Chris
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Pops
PO Fixed mine
When I got my 1975 H25 the head door didn't work at all. The PO had said it always worked great until recently. After reading of the deck compression problem I did some checking on that problem dreading what I might find. Everything looked fine. After checking everything I could think of, I removed the trim piece at the top of the door to remove it. The problem...the PO had installed a clock on the salon bulkhead, with a three inch screw securely fastening the clock and the head door behind it.
When I got my 1975 H25 the head door didn't work at all. The PO had said it always worked great until recently. After reading of the deck compression problem I did some checking on that problem dreading what I might find. Everything looked fine. After checking everything I could think of, I removed the trim piece at the top of the door to remove it. The problem...the PO had installed a clock on the salon bulkhead, with a three inch screw securely fastening the clock and the head door behind it.
Chris: Mast compression was one of the first things I checked and the clearance afforded in the slot between the mast post and the bulkhead is adequate for the door to slide. I have come to the realization that track is just worn out and will try to find a substitute to replace it. Thanks to all of you for your input.
Found the problem
The manufacturer or previous owner had glued a a piece of wood as a shim at the bottom of thge door channel. This was probably to guide the door or to prevent it from rattling at anchor. This woas causing friction at the bottom causing the top of the door to move forward and derrail. It is now running freely but the rail and wheels are preety worn and will be replaced, but for now it is working. Thanks to all.
The manufacturer or previous owner had glued a a piece of wood as a shim at the bottom of thge door channel. This was probably to guide the door or to prevent it from rattling at anchor. This woas causing friction at the bottom causing the top of the door to move forward and derrail. It is now running freely but the rail and wheels are preety worn and will be replaced, but for now it is working. Thanks to all.
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Jeff Prideaux
Mast compression question
I'm looking at a 83 Hunter 27 for sale. Its on the hard and the sliding door between the salon and head won't move. I didn't see any visible evidence of mast compression except for the sliding door being stick. Could it be possible that being on the hard puts some tork on something and that's the cause of the sliding door being stuck? Is there any other signs for mast compression to look for?
I'm looking at a 83 Hunter 27 for sale. Its on the hard and the sliding door between the salon and head won't move. I didn't see any visible evidence of mast compression except for the sliding door being stick. Could it be possible that being on the hard puts some tork on something and that's the cause of the sliding door being stuck? Is there any other signs for mast compression to look for?
Signs of rot in the mast step
- The ceiling liner bulges around the arch of wood over the door, and the compression post. This assumes the mast is mounted and the shrouds are at sailing tension - often not the case during the winter on the hard. - The deck around the mast step gives off a a deep thunk when rapped with the butt of a screw driver (as compared to known solid deck elsewhere.) - A surveyor reports moisture around the step. - There is evidence of compression in a pattern of cracks or shape of the step itself. The definitive test is to drill a hole into the deck sandwhich and see what kind of wood comes up. White and clean is good, dark and punky is bad. The hole is easily repaired with epoxy if you are careful not to drill beyond the lower layer of fiberglass above the liner. Good luck, David Lady Lillie
- The ceiling liner bulges around the arch of wood over the door, and the compression post. This assumes the mast is mounted and the shrouds are at sailing tension - often not the case during the winter on the hard. - The deck around the mast step gives off a a deep thunk when rapped with the butt of a screw driver (as compared to known solid deck elsewhere.) - A surveyor reports moisture around the step. - There is evidence of compression in a pattern of cracks or shape of the step itself. The definitive test is to drill a hole into the deck sandwhich and see what kind of wood comes up. White and clean is good, dark and punky is bad. The hole is easily repaired with epoxy if you are careful not to drill beyond the lower layer of fiberglass above the liner. Good luck, David Lady Lillie
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Bill Edmundson
Compression Post
If the door won't slide look at the floor at the base of the compression post. The fiberglass rib may have calapsed due to a rotted floor timber. Open the bilge and check the hole in the forward side for signs of rotten wood. So far I haven't found an easy fix for this problem.
If the door won't slide look at the floor at the base of the compression post. The fiberglass rib may have calapsed due to a rotted floor timber. Open the bilge and check the hole in the forward side for signs of rotten wood. So far I haven't found an easy fix for this problem.
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